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Gareth



Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 1038

England 2003 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Oslo Blue
Battery problems
I'm having a problem with my 2002 90 TD5CSW. It started when I came to use the car yesterday, and the battery was flat. I mean dead flat, the clock had stopped.

I knew the battery was past its best, and from the look of it could be original (it was a Land Rover branded battery) So I went and bought a new battery from Halfords, a Yuasa silver HB019 which is what was recommended.

I fitted the new battery, and after a bit of hassle getting the alarm to turn off when I first connected it, the car started fine. There was no alternator warning light on, so I presumed all was well and locked her up and left.

Today, I got a battery disconnect warning from the Skytag at lunchtime. I went to the car and the new battery was completely dead, so dead that the clock had stopped!

I tried a jump start from my D4, and all it would do was set off the alarm on the Defender, and I was not able to disarm it, even though the D4 was connected to it. I decided that I best not proceed in case there was dead short somewhere and I did not want to damage the D4's sensitive electronics!

So, I am sat here typing whilst I have disconnected the new battery and put it on charge with smart charger which hopefully can recover it.

What is likely to be discharging the battery in a 24 hr period? Thats how long the new battery had been fitted before I got the Battery disconnect warning from the Skytag.

Any help appreciated. 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy
1968 S2a 88 aka Bob
2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged.
Post #470729 8th Nov 2015 5:48pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
This is pure conjecture but for a 95 ah battery to be going completely flat it will be something that is drawing approximately 3-5 amps per hour. If you are able fully charge the battery and then fit it with an ammeter in series firstly to see how much is draining, then start pulling fuses to see if you can locate where the issue is. It will simply be a process of elimination.

Good luck. Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #470742 8th Nov 2015 6:17pm
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Gareth



Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 1038

England 2003 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Oslo Blue
Yes, its on charge now, so will commence the pulling of fuses as soon as its charged up. Will report back. Thumbs Up 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy
1968 S2a 88 aka Bob
2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged.
Post #470744 8th Nov 2015 6:20pm
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Gareth



Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 1038

England 2003 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Oslo Blue
OK, just been out in between rain storms. The battery is not yet up to full charge, and was reading 11.8v. I briefly connected the positive terminal, and used my multi meter (set to 10 amp range) to check the current draw between the neg post and the neg terminal. It was reading 4.8 amps.

Obviously something considerable is drawing this amount of power. I will need some dry weather and daylight to sort this, so will leave the thing disconnected and charging up.

One thing that is odd. When I disconnect the meter, the alarm siren goes off for a few seconds. It initially was going off in conjunction with the vehicle horn when the neg lead was connected, and was making a right old din! Now, with the meter bridging the neg connection its just the alarm sounder, and it shuts itself off after about 5 seconds from me disconnecting the meter. Does this mean the battery backup is also discharged? Is this rechargeable when the vehicle is running, or is it a battery that needs replacing? 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy
1968 S2a 88 aka Bob
2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged.
Post #470781 8th Nov 2015 7:58pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Battery backup will recharge once your issue has been sorted. Pull the larger fuses first as some of these will run smaller ancillary circuits that will be protected by smaller fuses, you may track it down quicker.

As stated good luck you are on the right track. Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #470843 8th Nov 2015 11:00pm
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Gareth



Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 1038

England 2003 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Oslo Blue
The plot thickens!

I recharged the battery to 100% and decided to move the car undercover. Before I started it, I checked the static draw and is was over 4 amps. After reconnecting the negative lead I had to cycle the door locks to open the drivers door. The passenger door made a strange high pitched buzz, then went normal and worked properly.

I started the engine and took a voltage reading across the battery, 14.4 volts, so alternator is charging.

Moved into garage and disconnected negative lead. Checked static draw again and its now reading 0.03 amps! It occasionally climbs to 0.04 amps when the minute hand moves on the clock!

So it appears to have rectified itself, and it was possibly a sticky central locking actuator on the door. Could this draw 4 - 5 amps?

Anyway, when I get home from work, I will see where its at, because I left it all connected and hopefully it will start. 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy
1968 S2a 88 aka Bob
2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged.
Post #471010 9th Nov 2015 5:17pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
The door solenoid could indeed be drawing that amount of current, on a Puma the doors are controlled by the alarm ecu which is protected by both 15 amp and 20 amp fuses. Looks likely that is the cause. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #471023 9th Nov 2015 5:51pm
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Gareth



Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 1038

England 2003 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Oslo Blue
I have hard wired a volt meter to the battery, so will keep an eye on it over the next few days. Jump leads in the back just in case! 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy
1968 S2a 88 aka Bob
2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged.
Post #471116 9th Nov 2015 9:46pm
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Silver Back



Member Since: 11 Jun 2015
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 405

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Coniston Green
I once had a similar problem which turned out to be a defective diode in the rectifier. Charges fine on the other two phases when running, including no charge light on the dash, but then discharges through the duff one when switch off.

Good luck.

Andy
Post #471138 9th Nov 2015 10:43pm
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Gareth



Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 1038

England 2003 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Oslo Blue
I hear what your saying Andy, but surely that would not be intermittent? The fact that mine was still sitting on 13.2 this morning tells me that the problem has gone away now.

My theory is that by having a defective and old battery installed, the central locking solenoid did not travel its full distance, and continued to draw current. The only thing I have done which gave a positive symptom of a fault is to lock and unlock the car a few times with the new battery fully charged.

I know that Halfords say that all there batteries are supplied fully charged, but I never checked it. I just fitted it and walked away until the following day, when it was flat. 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy
1968 S2a 88 aka Bob
2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged.
Post #471227 10th Nov 2015 10:04am
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