 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > 2008 Puma 2.4 buying tips |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19661  
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What was the reason for the transfer of change?
Check for chassis rust and or body corrosion but mainly chassis, especially outriggers and various dirty traps. Listen for EGR shutdown noises and functions correctly. No Amber dash warning lights. When was brake fluid last changed? Servicing often doesn't include this unless extra is paid. Worth trying to find out approx how much brake pad life there is or that'd be an additional costs. Check bushes especially rear damper / shock lower bushes and top bushes. Check for general leaks, I.e. Gearbox casing, front and rear diff etc. Some others will likely think of some other things too I haven't mentioned.  |
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30th Sep 2015 10:23pm |
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| RED-DOT Member Since: 29 Jun 2009 Location: stirling Posts: 2363 
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2008's were fitted with rubber clutches but it has most likely been done by now. They also had a recall for new sump design as old sumps got bashed causing leaks under articulation. Check vacuum pump is dry as they first attempt was prone to leaking. Check fuel breather pipe under NSR wing has been lengthened and re-positioned. If still on original radio check it doesn't lose the preset station when switching off key. 2008 RS4 gone, 123d M Sport, and a Puma 90 XS..
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30th Sep 2015 11:27pm |
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| Johnnyboxer Member Since: 21 Aug 2015 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 27
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Thanks, great tips so far
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1st Oct 2015 9:21am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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Cosmetically below are a few threads having used 'usual suspects' in the search facility. They may give you a few pointers to look at and maybe 'room to negotiate on' too?
http://www.defender2.net/forum/search.php?...rch_time=0 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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1st Oct 2015 9:28am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16943 
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2008 will also be a potential candidate for the PCJ problem, although if it hasn't happened yet it probably isn't going to.
If it has a/c, check for harness damage to the loom that runs over the a/c compressor. Check whether it has a BBUS on the alarm, if not and you buy it, fit one as the absolute minimum security upgrade (take other steps as well). As noted above, check for the "Puma clutch death rattle" and don't expect more than about 50k miles of normal use from the driven plate. Be aware of the gearbox output adaptor shaft spline problem, although there isn't much you can do to check without removing the transfer box. When test driving, be alert to backlash in the transmission and clunky take-up when letting the clutch in - Pumas are very susceptible to wear in many places in the driveline which all contribute to a poor gear change and clutch take up. It isn't really an issue since you learn to cope, but if the drive line feel tight and smooth you've probably found a good one. Since it is a 90 there probably won't be problems with the front diff, but a 110 or 130 of that age would be at risk of a very worn front diff. Check for wear in the door hinges (by lifting the door when open). There seem to be many vehicles of that sort of age with very worn hinges (I have actually known the FNS door fall off a 2008 110 on a dealer forecourt when opened when the top hinge pin failed completely). Unusual, but not unheard of, and anything that you can use to haggle might be useful. |
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1st Oct 2015 9:48am |
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| Johnnyboxer Member Since: 21 Aug 2015 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 27
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Many thanks,keep the tips coming
PCJ ???? Clutch judder. is that? |
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1st Oct 2015 2:01pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16943
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PCJ - Piston Cooling Jets. The Puma engine has an oil spray nozzle pointing upwards at the bottom of each bore which sprays oil up under the piston. This lubricates the bore and cools the piston. Early engines had an odd 'feature' which meant that if the oil pressure was excessively high, for example gloopy dirty oil on a cold morning, an over-pressure valve in each jet would shut down and stop the spray (I've no idea why, seems a daft idea to me)! Due to hysteresis in the valve, the jets would not automatically restart when the oil thinned and the pressure dropped, at least they weren't guaranteed to do so unless and until the engine was next stopped and restarted. This meant that the engine would be running for some considerable time with no bore lubrication, and very rapid wear would take place, leading to an engine which was completely destroyed (everything which had an oil feed would be knackered due to the debris circulating in the oil).
If this happened in the first three years LR would replace the complete engine, however once the warranty is up you are on your own unless you can show that the vehicle has a full main dealer service history with regular oil changes using the correct oil, in which case LR *may* at their discretion *consider* making a contribution to your £10k repair bill! The symptoms to watch for are knocking, piston blow-by, excessive crankcase pressure or smoke, and all the usual signs of an utterly knackered engine. It is likely though that if it was going to happen, it would have done by now so although there is some element of risk, if it sounds OK it probably will continue to be OK. Do make sure though that you do your oil changes regularly on a Puma. The clutch death rattle is easily checked. Switch off the engine with box in neautral and the clutch out (i.e., pedal depressed) and listen. There should be no significant noise. Now repeat with the clutch in (i.e., foot off pedal). If there is a rattle with the clutch in that isn't there with the clutch out, then the springs in the driven plate are failing and the plate should be replaced. Typically the driven plate lasts around 50k miles in normal use before the springs take on a permanent set and the plate needs replacing. Once it is like this, not only does the 'driving experience' become less pleasant but there is a risk of the springs falling out altogether and causing far more extensive and expensive damage. A clutch change isn't difficult and shouldn't be expensive, and also provides an ideal opportunity to check and lubricate the output adaptor shaft splines, which are another weak spot in the driveline. |
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1st Oct 2015 2:36pm |
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| Johnnyboxer Member Since: 21 Aug 2015 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 27
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Many thanks, not a chance to drive it yet - but looking at the LR service book it was yearly serviced at every 10,000 miles or so, at the local main dealer, last one this Spring, so I expect the oil would have been ok at 10k intervals Very helpful It had a new clutch at 65k, so presume all the springs/plate etc will have been done at that time |
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1st Oct 2015 2:53pm |
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| Juhulia Member Since: 11 Jul 2013 Location: Dresden Posts: 17 
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Dealer says Pumas had more faults in their first two years (= the "Ford years").
We've taken a look on a few of these Pumas. Unfortunately, none was in acceptable condition despite their high prices. Bought a newer one |
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3rd Oct 2015 10:54am |
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| ARC99 Member Since: 19 Feb 2013 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1831 
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Check that the swivels on the front axel are clean and dry (no sign of oil leak) and that the ball is not pitted. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place, so it doesn't take much to  us off.
Richard |
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3rd Oct 2015 11:19am |
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| Johnnyboxer Member Since: 21 Aug 2015 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 27
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Ok thanks
Going to have a look at 2 at the weekend The 90 H/Top and a 110 XS Utility, both 2008 models Any more tips will be great |
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16th Oct 2015 7:48pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic7105.h...ge+mileage
Despite the above Noworries4x4 probably covers more mileage than most in any of his Defenders, it may be worth dropping him a 'pm' to see what his perspective is? Wonder if his perspective is still the same as below? If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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16th Oct 2015 8:49pm |
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| Johnnyboxer Member Since: 21 Aug 2015 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 27
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Cheers.................reading that is a concern
I gather a few early Pumas had oil pump issues |
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16th Oct 2015 9:00pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16943
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No problems with the 2.4 oil pump, it was the early 2.2 engine with the variable displacement oil pump that had problems.
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16th Oct 2015 10:13pm |
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