 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Whistle noise when accelerating |
 
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| rustyboxx Member Since: 08 Oct 2012 Location: Poole Posts: 548   
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Yep, I had a similar thing, turned out to be a hairline crack in the manifold. However, it could be the gasket between the turbo and exhaust pipe. Might be worth a look. 2015 90 XS CSW TDCi - Beautiful
2007 110 XS DCPU - An itch that needed scratching 2005 90 Td5 XS CSW - Utterly brilliant 2001 Discovery 2 ES Auto - A phase I went through 1996 90 Tdi CSW - Uber reliable 1989 90 2.5 Petrol Hardtop - My first proper Landy 1985 Range Rover Vogue V8 -Troublesome |
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17th May 2015 12:16am |
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| Charlie Spitfire Member Since: 16 May 2015 Location: Chartres Posts: 55  
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I had the same thing. It was a leak in the exhaust manifold / turbo charger flange. Lift the hood and have someone press up and down on the accelerator pedal and you ought to be able to hear it coming from the top left hand side of the engine with you facing the engine.
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17th May 2015 12:29am |
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| carrotbay Member Since: 18 Aug 2013 Location: Northants, UK Posts: 695 
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Hi .. Take the heat shield off from the exhaust manifold and check for any signs of soot from between the manifold and the turbo.
I had the same issue and replaced the gasket with this .. http://www.4x4overlander.com/product/nakat...-gasket-2/ which solved the issue. (To be fair I had to do it twice .. The second time with some 'turbo paste' from demon tweeks to get a good seal. To fix it properly would involve taking it all apart and getting the faces flattened but I needed a quick repair!) 2008 Defender 110 XS SW - M57N2 / 6HP28X |
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17th May 2015 7:53am |
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| Flyingfocrs Member Since: 12 Jan 2015 Location: Deepest darkest Aberdeenshire Posts: 155  
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Cheers guys.
I have had the heat shield off but didn't see anything cracked or loose but i have an exhaust gasket and liquid seal so may well just remove it, clean it and reseal it anyway. |
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18th May 2015 8:44am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16884 
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Several threads on this already.
Generally this will be caused by a leak somewhere between the cylinder head and the turbo. Check that the manifold is tight on the head, in particular the nuts clamping the front branch of the manifold to the head tend to work loose. Check the joint between the turbo and the manifold, since the flanges are notorious for warping. There are thicker gaskets available, but generally if warped you'll bneed to remove the turbo and manifold and reface them to get a flat mating surface. Unfortunately everything you nees to see and check is totally hidden by heatshields! It is also possible that s leak in the pressurised part of the induction circuit (pipes or intercooler) can cause a whistle, in particular check that the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler isn't rubbing on anything, since if it is it will eventually fail. Another very common issue. |
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18th May 2015 10:05am |
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| Charlie Spitfire Member Since: 16 May 2015 Location: Chartres Posts: 55
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Well as luck would have it. After a three hour motorway journey monday once again I hear that tell tell whistle between 2,000 and 3,000 revs. I guess the turbo kicks in around 1,500 revs so I would suppose that this would indicate a problem between the motor and the turbo charger once again. Now I have already had this problem fixed once within the last twelve months at the local dealership when the stud had sheared at the flange between the manisfold and turbo charger.
So seeing as the problem has now come back as I understand it (thank you black wolf) I have to tighten all the nuts between the motor and turbo. I have never done this before. Will they be obviously lose? Or do I use a torque wrench and tighten them as per the workshop manual. I can't see any smoking or soot around the flange so how do I know if the manifold/turbo flanges are warped? I had a TD5 before I had a PUMA and I never had any trouble driving on the motorway. The speed limit here in France is 85mph are these TCDI engines not designed to do that speed? I mean transit vans do this speed don't they. Also if the engine is hot enough to cause the turbo manisfold to warp why does my temperature stay rock solid in the center of the dial. The gauge seems to work from cold to normal running temperature but it never goes hotter than half way up the dial. |
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21st May 2015 6:08pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16884
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When mine did this the two nuts on the front branch of the manifold could be turned with the fingers. I wouldn't worry about a torque wrench myself - it is extraordinarily difficult to get one on - just be sensible with a ring spanner. You'll know immediately if they're loose.
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21st May 2015 10:20pm |
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| Charlie Spitfire Member Since: 16 May 2015 Location: Chartres Posts: 55
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I spoke to Alive tuning and CSK and both seemed to suggest that a problem with warped manisfolds was more common in a TD5 engine than in a Puma 2.4 engine. I had my Land Rover at the dealership to replace the switch on top of my windscreen wiper motor (a job that I didn't feel confident enough to tackle in the local parking garage as I don't have off road parking) and at my request they tightened up the nuts on the flange between turbo and exhaust manisfold and for the moment the problem has gone away. Lets see how long it lasts !
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2nd Jun 2015 10:52am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16884
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Warped manifolds are very common on TD5s, and cause a leak between the manifold and head.
On the Puma, warped turbo flanges are very common, causing a leak between the manifold and turbo. The remedy is to flatten the warped flange. As a bonus, the Puma is also very prone to allowing the manifold-to-head fastening to loosen (especially those on the front manifold branch) and the manifold-to-turbo fastening to loosen. All of these will cause the whistle you describe. As if that wasn't enough, if you're really lucky the downpipe/cat flange will detach itself from the downpipe/cat althogether, leaving you with a hard-to-spot but significant exhaust leak. You'll notice the fumes in the car though! Hopefully your vehicle is now sorted, but it is worth bearing the above in mind. If you develop a sort of farty trumpeting noise that happens under similar conditions to the whistle, check the pipes from the turbo to the intercooler. These can chafe, most notably on the steering mechansim, and make really strange noises when pressurised. This is likely, ultimately, to cause the MIL to illuminate though. |
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2nd Jun 2015 2:35pm |
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| Charlie Spitfire Member Since: 16 May 2015 Location: Chartres Posts: 55
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Alex at ALIVE mentioned that they sell pre-warped and post flattened TD5 manifolds. Does anyone know if it is possible to buy pre-warped and post flattened PUMA manifold ? If push comes to shove I can probably figure out how to change a manifold but I have absolutely no idea whatsoever where to go to get a manifold flattened.
To be honest I am a be bemused as to why this should happen at all. Eighty miles an hour on the autoroute hardly seems to me to be excessive for what is essentially a Ford Transit engine ! Thank you for the kind advice blackwolf - certainly very good to know !!!! |
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2nd Jun 2015 2:53pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16884
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It tends not to be the manifold that warps, it is the corresponding flange on the turbo. It can be flattened by carefull filing with a new, good-quality, flat file, or by lapping on abrasive paper laid on a sheet of glass or other perfectly flat surface.
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2nd Jun 2015 6:08pm |
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| Flyingfocrs Member Since: 12 Jan 2015 Location: Deepest darkest Aberdeenshire Posts: 155
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Just to update this, I didn't get the chance to check anything before I left to come back offshore last week.
I did order new silicone hoses for the intercooler as when I had looked there was a worn bit where it had touched the steering mechanism. They are at home ready to fit. SWMBO doesn't drive it at all so it'll sit for a month and then i'll get a look once I'm back in the UK. |
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2nd Jun 2015 6:18pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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Recent 2.2s got a recall under warranty for a bracket that fits to the alternator and keeps the hose high. Maybe it can be bought if applicable to the 2.4s? |
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2nd Jun 2015 9:10pm |
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| Flyingfocrs Member Since: 12 Jan 2015 Location: Deepest darkest Aberdeenshire Posts: 155
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So finally back on dry land and had 5 minutes to get the bonnet lifted.
Removed the turbo heatshield and discovered someone must have been in there before as the heatshield had been cut around the bolt hole on the awkward one between the downpipe and the bulkhead. Once out of the way had a good look and could see some soot marks on the flange between the manifold and turbo. Suspiciously the nuts on this flange look newer than all the other ones do. Quick fix was to force some exhaust sealer into the flange which on a quick test drive has eliminated the whistle so a new gasket will be ordered. Whilst under the bonnet i changed out my boost hoses. |
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1st Jul 2015 6:13pm |
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