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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Brake Pads
Hello all,

Quickie for the more knowledgable out there. Looking (needing) to do a break pad change fairly soon. Discs are in great nick, so just pads and just the front pair.

So just wondering if the OEM pads are sufficiently good or whether there is a worthile upgrade? Obviously, given I live in the Alps and am heading up and down twisties almost daily, an upgrade would be strongly considered. Perfectly happy with the bite and feel of my current set, this would be more about an extra bit of bite in emergency situations allied with longevity.

Thanks in advance as ever... Thumbs Up Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #425011 20th May 2015 8:54am
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Ken B



Member Since: 17 Dec 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 106

I tried some of the EBC green pads and they were awful at least when it came to mud they fell apart in no time!

I have reverted to Pagid and they have held up much better. Defender 90 TD5 County -
You need only two tools in life: WD-40 and duct tape.
If it doesnt move and it should: WD-40.
If it moves and shouldnt: duct tape it.
Post #425216 20th May 2015 9:56pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16891

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
OEM have done me fine for 7 years and 166666 miles, I see no reason to use anything else.
Post #425221 20th May 2015 10:05pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
Ebc are the worst pads ive tried , changed after only few miles

pagid are a budget pad , we do fit lots of them and seem ok but quite often have the grind the steel packing a bit other wise there too tight in the carriers , but i think a better pad are apec and always fit better
Post #425224 20th May 2015 10:06pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
I have Ferodo's in mine and they seem to be lasting well Thumbs Up

Stop well, don't fade in normal driving conditions and aren't too dusty. - I'd recommend them. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #425234 20th May 2015 10:42pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
In fact the set I have currently were bought in an emergency from Accro Land in Sallanches which will be just down the road from you and well worth a visit Thumbs Up Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #425235 20th May 2015 10:45pm
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Ken B



Member Since: 17 Dec 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 106

munch90 wrote:
Ebc are the worst pads ive tried , changed after only few miles

pagid are a budget pad , we do fit lots of them and seem ok but quite often have the grind the steel packing a bit other wise there too tight in the carriers , but i think a better pad are apec and always fit better


Yep picked up the Pagid ones at eurocarparts but they have been fine and cope with heavy mud use so happy enough for me as that is what I need Smile Defender 90 TD5 County -
You need only two tools in life: WD-40 and duct tape.
If it doesnt move and it should: WD-40.
If it moves and shouldnt: duct tape it.
Post #425244 20th May 2015 11:13pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

I know it sounds odd but for me it genuine pads! They don't squeek squeel or deteriorate like other brands. And genuine pads come complete with new pins springs and split pins.
Post #425254 21st May 2015 5:01am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
land rover don't make brake pads

there plenty of branded pads that don't squeek squeel or deteriorate without paying extra for them

genuine box £90 ish

brembo £40 ish with pin set
Post #425265 21st May 2015 8:22am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
OP is happy with the performance of the OEM or genuine LR branded so I'd tend to stick with them and ensure you drive within the performance characteristics and it sounds like you do that already.

If you ever experience brake fade on a Alpine descent then I'd say you are pushing the Defender too hard and should just take it as a warning sign and back off a bit.

The issue with so-called higher performance pads is that you don't get something for nothing. What you gain in one area, you will lose from in another. This could be higher disc wear, rattling pads, squealing, wooden feel at lower temps.

Try a couple of emergency brakes in a safe environment and get a feel for how it performs with the current setup. You might be surprised at how good the standard setup is, especially if you run only lightly loaded. The most important thing would be to make sure it pulls up in a straight line and if it has abs then when it activates it does not stop you pressing hard on the pedal.
Post #425279 21st May 2015 9:33am
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I Like Old Skool



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 767

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi ST Coniston Green
Genuine or OEM pads for me everytime. I used to drive for a living and at one point used to come over the Snake Pass everyday in a works van. The van was main dealer serviced by DAF and even though I would often have the front discs glowing dull red when I arrived in Glossop the braking never failed with the genuine pads. I once fitted some pattern pads in my normal 8v Astra (Motorquip?) and nearly shat myself when getting to a bendy bit of road, the pads started outgassing due to heat and became about as effective at braking as a couple of blocks of ice. You only need to experience that once to make you realise a few quid saved on brake pads just isn't worth it. I have always fitted genuine or OEM pads to my cars, 4x4s and vans since and never managed to overcook the brakes despite some foolishly over-enthusiastic driving. Even my 4ltr auto Cherokee with oversized tyres never failed to perform faultless stops.
Post #425298 21st May 2015 10:40am
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
shaggydog wrote:
In fact the set I have currently were bought in an emergency from Accro Land in Sallanches which will be just down the road from you and well worth a visit Thumbs Up


Thank you all for the top tips. And yes Shaggy, know AccroLand well. About as helpful, professional, obsessive and good value as you could wish for from an independent. Thanks for all thoughts, will buy accordingly. Thumbs Up Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #425303 21st May 2015 11:12am
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steventheplumber



Member Since: 29 Apr 2014
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 767

England 1987 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Keswick Green
I had brake fade once not pleasant, was down to fluid needed changing. Plus my under pants.
Post #425304 21st May 2015 11:14am
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Thumbs Up Not a problem Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #425428 21st May 2015 10:05pm
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nickhodgson



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Zambia
Posts: 172

Particularly with respect to brake pads but also for other parts you need to be careful about what OEM actually means. There is no regulation on the use of OEM and it seems that sometimes suppliers (the companies that supply the retailers) are fairly liberal with its application. For example you can buy a mintex set of pads that are labelled OEM and have significant differences to the pads that you take out of a Land Rover Genuine box. The material appears different and there is no rubber pad on the back of the pads and no silver metal plates in the box. So I don't really understand on what basis they are called OEM. I suspect that a long time ago Land Rover used a Mintex pad as Genuine but have since moved on - but suppliers still label OEM as they were once an original equipment manufacturer.

I also believe that there are instances when OEM parts are ordered by suppliers from the same manufacturers as Land Rover but some components in those parts are inferior to what the manufacturer fits for parts supplied to Land Rover. For example have you ever wondered why the OEM clutch master cylinders have a different cap to the Genuine one?

My opinion is that OE should be used to signify Original Equipment and you should be getting the exact part as would be supplied to Land Rover. OEM appears to be a bit more vague.

I use Land Rover Genuine pads from a Land Rover Box. They are expensive but perform as I want (don't squeak in dusty conditions). Over 20 years of driving many Land Rovers has lead to Genuine Pads. So really its up to the user what pads they choose, and as most users do not tow 3.5t through the alps they will be happy with lower quality/performance pads and will never face a situation where the inferior quality is exposed. You could also consider if you think all the different pads that you can buy have been subjected to the same testing regime as Land Rover do to select the pads they use.

I expect one day soon the law will be that parts fitted to cars have to be exactly the same quality as fitted by the manufacturer.....so that the vehicle performs as the manufacturer intended. A sad day for those that like to modify their cars but probably safer for the majority in the end. 1995 300tdi Defender 90 P/UP
2011 Puma Defender 130 D/C
2000 300tdi Defender 110 P/UP
2015 Discovery 4 SDV6 HSE
Post #425483 22nd May 2015 8:48am
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