 | Home > Land Rover Customer Relations > Adaptor shaft spline failure between main and transfer boxes |
 
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| dgardel Member Since: 30 Nov 2008 Location: Veneto (Heart & Head) Posts: 3586  
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in my opinion, is the rust powder that creeps into the elastic ring slot. This one, now, isn't able to keep in the right position the shaft and it coming out. At this point, since less surface of grooves is working, they sags. Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition
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1st Jan 2016 1:46am |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127  
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Your right on that dgardel, these shafts work their way out, so only half of it is being used to transmit the power. When replacing them, the clip pops into the recessed groove, but when dismantling, I’ve never found one to still be clipped into place. This one from last week clearly shows only half the shaft was inside the cup, so the wear is very obvious, I also think the strength of the clip that’s not able to hold the shaft in place has a lot to do with these failing? Click image to enlarge 80" 80" 86" 88" 90" Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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20th Feb 2018 9:33am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16856 
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A very interesting and sound observation, and possibly another plus for the Ashcroft mod, then, since the seal and retainer will probably stop the shaft disengaging.
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20th Feb 2018 12:03pm |
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| dgardel Member Since: 30 Nov 2008 Location: Veneto (Heart & Head) Posts: 3586
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Guys, it's sufficient a good grease on the spline, the spring/retainer is pulled out from the cave by the rust powder.
With grease the problem is solved! Cheeper and effective. Mine, greased from new, has 114000km (remapped at 180CV) with no problem at all..... I changed 3 clutches (last one is from transit 4x4) and every time I checked the spline status and it was as new. Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition
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20th Feb 2018 12:07pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16856
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I know it is tempting fate to say this (it will probably now fail) but my 2007 DC has just passed 220,000 miles and is still on its original shaft.
When I last changed the clutch (at 150,000 miles) the shaft was dry but not worn, and the two parts were a better fit than the brand new parts I had already bought ready to fit. Since the originals were better than the replacements, I cleaned the originals and reassembled them with copious grease, and a further 70,000 miles have now passed. I will be fitting another clutch as soon as I get the chance (after 70k miles the clutch has no springiness left and is not very pleasant to drive) and it will be interesting to inspect the shaft again. |
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20th Feb 2018 12:21pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16856
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Thinking further about this, it would also explain why in almost every case of failure the dust cover has come off - it has been forced off as the shaft works its way out of the splined socket. |
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20th Feb 2018 12:42pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127
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One thing I did notice while replacing it,
Was how JLR had ramped up the price of the parts! The first one I brought about 4 years ago was around £140 + vat. This time it was just over £250 +vat.  80" 80" 86" 88" 90"
Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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20th Feb 2018 12:59pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16856
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I wish that surprised me, but it doesn't.
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20th Feb 2018 1:45pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127
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I suppose it all helps towards paying for the gin palaces/showrooms....
 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"
Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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20th Feb 2018 2:29pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7681 
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can you change this shaft with the gbox on the vehicle? just take the Tbox off the back, is there enough room to do it in under? last one i did was a gbox out job as clutch was being done. Cheers
James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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22nd Feb 2018 12:35pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16856
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Yes, you can.
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22nd Feb 2018 1:47pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7681
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thank you Cheers
James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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22nd Feb 2018 2:20pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127
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Just a visual inspection/lubrication only requires T/Box removal. It’s not possible to replace the shaft without removing the box, To remove the centre gearbox housing that the shaft is in, you need to remove the top cover housing on the box itself before it will come away, Which means dropping the main box to gain access, The shaft cup needs a puller to get it off, and there is hardly any room around the shaft, which is why it needs to be stripped. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 80" 80" 86" 88" 90" Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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22nd Feb 2018 3:37pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16856
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Beg to differ, Ian, I have stripped mine down with the gearbox on the car without difficulty.
I accept that removing the splined cup that fits on the gearbox output spigot may be difficult if you don't have a suitable holdfast tool and suitable pullers, but the extension housing can be removed and the complete adaptor shaft replaced with the box in situ on the car. I am not saying that it isn't easier with the box off the car, but it can be done with the box on still. |
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22nd Feb 2018 6:49pm |
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