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Rosso_NI



Member Since: 09 May 2014
Location: NI
Posts: 275

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 110 2.5 n/a Diesel ST Galway Green
130 Rear Diff
Still trying to get bits gathered for my 130 currently there is nothing in rear axle apart from empty axle casing and hubs. Half shafts drive shaft flanges etc i can get but have a few questions regarding rear diff

I was told that for 130 you need a short nose diff the same as P38 Range Rover is this the case?

If so does anyone have a P38 lying dead somewhere?

Or does anyone have a spare diff for 130 or second hand they would be willing to sell?

Thanks Thumbs Up
Post #405468 7th Mar 2015 11:10pm
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newhue



Member Since: 28 Apr 2014
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 351

Australia 
Yes mate all Puma 110 and 130 have P38 rear diffs. I have heard however the 130 casing is heavier than the 110, which is how it should be. All the internals are the same, so any centre from 07 110 or 130 will fit and have the correct ratio. 3:54:1
A 94 onward (disc braked) Salisbury also fits up perfectly with the only modification required is shorten the drive shaft as the pinion nose if a lot longer. Many will argue it's a superior diff and I agree.
A RR has a P38 diff, however the ratio is probably different. Ashcroft can sell you the correct ring and pinion if you find yourself with a RR centre.

I have a P38 with 50K sitting here doing nothing, but I'm in Aus. My Defender and travels
Post #412873 1st Apr 2015 7:21am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16870

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
P38 diffs are available in both two-gear (single pin) and four-gear (two pin) versions, you will want a four-gear one, as used in production 110 and 130 vehicles.

An option to consider is getting a P38 two-gear (single pin) diffs from Ebay, where they are usually dirt cheap (I bought a good take-out for £20 including delivery from Norfolk to Dorset!), and fitting an Ashcroft ATB or air locker. This will result in a stronger diff than a stock four-gear P38.

The pinion housing is identical on both types, so this is a viable option.

Four-gear P38 pattern diffs are both scarce and expensive.
Post #412901 1st Apr 2015 9:58am
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grizz



Member Since: 31 Aug 2014
Location: cheshire
Posts: 208

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
What year is your 130 ?
Post #413002 1st Apr 2015 6:22pm
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Rosso_NI



Member Since: 09 May 2014
Location: NI
Posts: 275

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 110 2.5 n/a Diesel ST Galway Green
Thanks for the info guys mine is a 2003 TD5 although i have dropped a Rover V8 into it along with Auto ZF box so interested in putting the strongest option possible into it without spending to much cash.

Any advice welcome Thumbs Up
Post #413016 1st Apr 2015 7:18pm
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grizz



Member Since: 31 Aug 2014
Location: cheshire
Posts: 208

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
Wouldn't a 2003 have a Salisbury axle
Post #413020 1st Apr 2015 7:26pm
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Rosso_NI



Member Since: 09 May 2014
Location: NI
Posts: 275

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 110 2.5 n/a Diesel ST Galway Green
Dont think so Grizz but not 100 percent sure, think she is normal axle have seen Salsbury axles in ex military Defenders so am aware visually of the difference....... you have put doubt in my mind now will have to have another look tomorrow Whistle

So reading the posts can i just use a diff from a 110 or does it need to be from a 130 or P38 ?
Post #413034 1st Apr 2015 8:02pm
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newhue



Member Since: 28 Apr 2014
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 351

Australia 
Salisbury diffs stop in TD5 sometime in 02, thereafter everything has had P38.

Yes 110 or a 130 centre will do, or complete diff for that matter. The safety nazi's will argue if a 130 diff is heavier in construction by the manufacture, than that is what you should use to keep it legal. A Salisbury in pre 02 130 has a slightly heavier tube thickness I believe compared to the 110's. I'd presume P38 in a 130 would be similar, but have not herd of it either. Down here I know of several happy people who put a 110 diff in their 130 and life goes on.

The weakness of a P38 is the pinion is short, and the bearings that seat the pinion are close together hence the short housing. Under heavy use like towing, or big loads over rough terrain, or possibly locked, the pinion can move compromising the connection with the ring gear. The ring gear is also not the strongest, so between the two surfaces the gears flex and strip out the teeth. This is why Ashcroft make a long nose case for a loner pinion to be fitted when you fit his P38 lockers. He also makes a pegging kit to keep the ring gear from flexing. A P38 does have good ground clearance thought, but were made for RR which generally do lighter work and carry far less. They are also not all that bad, they fail, but all over the place either.

A Salisbury is a much heavier diff, somewhat over kill really, but has a long nose, for the long pinion and wide bearing mounts for the pinion. The ring gear is heavier and doesn't flex either. But they are a plough unless you give them shave. They are also heavy, but should also give you 500K +km of trouble free service if you keep the oil clean. My Defender and travels
Post #413053 1st Apr 2015 8:51pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Take a photo of your diff casing it will be much easier to identify Thumbs Up Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #413083 1st Apr 2015 10:18pm
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Rosso_NI



Member Since: 09 May 2014
Location: NI
Posts: 275

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 110 2.5 n/a Diesel ST Galway Green
Was thinking that Shaggy will try and get a photo tomorrow Thumbs Up
Post #413093 1st Apr 2015 10:35pm
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newhue



Member Since: 28 Apr 2014
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 351

Australia 
If it's roundish and looks a bit like the front diff it's a P38. It has no hat (rear cover) that can be removed as it's a fully welded enclosed casing with sweeping body down to the axel tubes.
If it has a squarish sided look to it, with collars that the axel tubes but into. Has a removable cover plate, and a 75mm square block at the bottom of the casing then it's a salisbury. My Defender and travels
Post #413127 2nd Apr 2015 7:10am
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MuddyChris300tdi



Member Since: 02 Mar 2014
Location: Derby
Posts: 224

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alpine White
Would it help if I take a picture of my sailsbury Axel for you?
Post #413128 2nd Apr 2015 7:19am
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Rosso_NI



Member Since: 09 May 2014
Location: NI
Posts: 275

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 110 2.5 n/a Diesel ST Galway Green
Thanks for the offer for the picture had a look at it this morning as i and others suspected it is normal axle casing i.e. Not salsbury. Have seen plenty salsbury axles in ex military stuff but reading posts etc last night put doubt in my mind.

Reading between the lines a salsbury axle and diff could be a stronger option for me with V8 and auto box or should i stick with standard and go with some tasty ashcroft add ons.

Looking for strongest most reliable option but also what going to be the best value for money dont have hundreds to spend on it

Any thoughts Whistle
Post #413134 2nd Apr 2015 8:56am
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newhue



Member Since: 28 Apr 2014
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 351

Australia 
all depends. By the time you buy some ashcroft bits to make a P38 comparable to a Sal, it may be worth just going a Sal if you can get one for a good price. This is only where centres are concerned. Upgraded axels and drive flanges would have to be applied to both diffs if you are looking for maximum durability and longevity, but of course, it all cost. My Defender and travels
Post #413171 2nd Apr 2015 10:44am
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MuddyChris300tdi



Member Since: 02 Mar 2014
Location: Derby
Posts: 224

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alpine White
There was a sailsbury axel and diff with detroit locker for sale on one of the facebook groups.
Post #413268 2nd Apr 2015 6:47pm
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