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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069  
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I did exactly that but rewired via aux fuse box because I wanted continuous feed not ignition on
I always try to solder and heat shrink wrap |
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18th Jan 2015 3:46pm |
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| PCA42 Member Since: 15 Jun 2014 Location: Church Stretton Posts: 468  
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Here's what I did this afternoon:
I wanted a 12v USB socket in the passenger side glove box for powering my TomTom and dashcam etc, and also an extra 12v socket on the lower shelf just as a spare for the odd occasion a phone charger may be required etc. Keeps things tidier and won't have wires trailing over the dash in front of the gear levers. First of all, I removed the stereo then pulled the dash facia off in the usual manner (two screw and pull the whole thing towards you). I then checked there was nothing behind the plastic trim where I wanted to locate the socket, and then used a step drill to drill a 30mm hole. The USB socket can then be fixed in place using the nut behind it, although it might be handy to attach your connectors and thread some wire down behind the dash as it's a little fiddly to get your hand in there.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I am using black and red 5A wire here with crimp connectors. I don't think the wire to the standard socket is much more than that? However, I don't think this is the best solution, but simply what I had available. I might redo it if I find myself using them for things with a greater power demand, and use solder connections for better reliability. Question: Is the standard 12v socket on the dash fused? The second socket, same as the first step again, check, step drill etc. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I then connected the upper USB socket to it in parallel using piggy-back connectors. A little 'bodgy' I know, but it works and I made sure they were attached firmly so they won't come off easy. Click image to enlarge To connect to the original socket again in parallel, I had to remove the original loom connector. I know you can just remove the wire connections out of the plastic shrouding by pulling the tab with a screw driver, but after faffing about for 10 mins trying I just cut it off. 
Click image to enlarge ...and put on insulated crimp ones. Click image to enlarge I then connected the new sockets to it using more piggy-backs. All checked and very useful 
Click image to enlarge Any suggestions on how I could improve this or whether you wouldn't recommend it etc would be welcome. Just using my basic knowledge of electrics here
:thumbsup: Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Pete
2010 Discovery 4 GS TDV6 1972 Series III 88" 2.25P |
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27th Jan 2015 3:03am |
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| ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328 
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I always use the heat shrink connectors instead of the crimp ones
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27th Jan 2015 6:39am |
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| LRmud Member Since: 22 Oct 2014 Location: IV12 Highland Posts: 198  
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^^^Agree
Probably best to replace the bare crimp connectors (Pic #7) with shrouded ones for the 12v side of things. Potentially saves changing fuses at a later date!
Tidy job though, well done. |
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27th Jan 2015 11:07am |
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| PCA42 Member Since: 15 Jun 2014 Location: Church Stretton Posts: 468
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The un-insulated ones are the 'piggy-back' connectors though. Can you get insulated ones?
EDIT: Turns out you can, just bought a pack of 50 and will change them over Pete
2010 Discovery 4 GS TDV6 1972 Series III 88" 2.25P |
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27th Jan 2015 6:30pm |
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