 | Home > Technical > TD5 Defender - Electrical Issues |
 
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| NickH Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Halifax Posts: 204   
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Hey pal, sorry to hear about your electrical woes.
I wouldnt think your add on tuning would cause this, the easiest way is of course to remove it and see what happens. To be honest I think if it was one of your add ons it would have caused the issue immediately after fitting. For a fuse to blow then you have a short to earth on that circuit, so either the wiring on that circuit has rubbed through and is shorting to earth or a component in that circuit is shorting to earth. Its a case of disconnecting components in a logical order one at a time and seeing if the fuse blows. Another thought is check if you disturbed/touched/damaged something when fitting your bolt ons. Sorry I cant be more help, good luck and please post your findings  2003 Td5 90
2013 sport hse 2012 700 raptor quad 2012 siromer 4x4 tractor |
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3rd Jan 2015 12:17am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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I would start by checking wiring inbetween body and doors
and then water ingress to central locking control unit , as-- unit in dash ( as5 or as10 unit ? ) |
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3rd Jan 2015 12:23am |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663  
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The tuning things wont imo be the issue. It was just a mention as I wanted to cover everything I could in the brief. Funny you mention moving things. I had to take the top of my dash off to sort the washer piping out which involves pulling the clocks forward. Behind there is a right mish mash of nasty nasty pre-insulated crimps (the left over wiring for the spots I reckon). I've also has an odd issue of the lighting being the left and right heater controls are very intermittent. Usually a good smack on the binnacle gets them on again! Sometimes you hit one side and it comes on but knocks the other off. Almost like playing pong :p!
Where is the AS10 located? I also find it interesting you mentioning that behind the dash as well. I didn't spot it with the top off, but it could be behind the clocks binnacle at a guess? With all the snow that's been here (only gone today since Boxing day) and the deep freezes at night I have had plenty of ice inside the cab on the windscreen and obviously this has to melt somewhere! I'm starting to think behind the clocks is a good start! I also have the radio out as I've intended to sort that wiring out to as again, some bad crimps going on there! But that's all loose for now. |
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3rd Jan 2015 12:37am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 
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Like munch says, I'd check wires to doors. Probably drivers door if it doesn't blow fuses sometimes with door open.
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3rd Jan 2015 1:27am |
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| Fifth Horseman Member Since: 08 Mar 2011 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 322 
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As stated, the root cause of your problem will most likely be a short to earth on one of the wires to the door lock actuators. This is not an uncommon fault.
The 10AS unit is indeed behind the instrument binnacle on your vehicle. The actuators are fed from the green connector (orange and violet wires on pins 2 and 3 respectively) |
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3rd Jan 2015 11:22am |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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After a day of stripping the dash, checking connections, checking fuses, checking relays, blowing many more relays, all I can pin it down to is the fact the inner door metal sheet (drivers door) which the solenoid attaches to was loose at the bottom with bolt undoing itself, thus resulting in the solenoid moving and I think jamming.
Ever since doing it up I can't get the damn thing to blow again even getting 4 people to wiggle doors as I lock and unlock (with a 30A fuse this time as I've blown the 20's!). I got all the lights back, only thing I left out was the interior bulb. Was an LED thing with a heatsink on and overtime the heatsink span and hit the casing it arced. It's been in for many months and never noticed, but I didn't like this, so it's now gone. I've lost a couple dash bulbs and the heater bulbs don't seem to work any longer, but everything else is back, like the locking and the immobiliser light. Diagnostics port is back after some checking and fiddling. Can that one loose nut allowing the door sheet to move really of been the issue? I noticed that whole locking mechanism is very sticky. Always has been. I usually give it a good douse in lube every so often but not done it for a while. Think it needs changing as the solenoid seems to be the weakest of them all. Doesn't move very far and the door pin won't let me manually lock and unlock the door. |
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3rd Jan 2015 7:32pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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For testing i would put a bit lower fuse in , it takes a 20a normal , i would test with a 15a , you normally find fuses are a bit over rated so normally you can get away with a bit lower for testing then you know it should be 100%
Testing with a higher fuse rate might hide a fault or burn something out did you check the wires in the rubber connecting tube between body and doors ? |
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3rd Jan 2015 9:21pm |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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Yep, fully understand it's a 20A normal. Burnt through all I had through testing and only had 10's under that which I thought was cutting it close. So only option was the 30A.
Checked and tested all wires in the door. Everything seemed fine and visually looked fine! Nothing obviously out of place on that front! The solenoid is very very sticky. When I first got the truck, it had a 'trick' of locking itself at any time ... normally when I jumped out to lock the gate behind me which is why I always had a piece of wood in the back seat as I got into the habit of opening back window and reaching through to unlock the door. This turned out to be due to the mechanism. Like I said above, the previous owner has either snapped a key or something in the old barrel. And done many many years ago. It was broke in such a way that the barrel is seized solid, so for this whole time, the solenoid has been having the power through the barrel that wouldn't move to lock and unlock (all interconnected). It's been fine like it until I put the truck into daily use and at a guess it wore the solenoid down. After I bought the truck, I disconnected the link bar between the barrel mechanism and the door latch mechanism. Since then it's fine. So at a guess the solenoid isn't great anyway. I'm wondering if this loose bolt put it in a position where the solenoid was trying harder to work and pulled to much current, though never blew fuses when it was fighting the barrel for a couple years! Will fetch some 15's tomorrow and some more 20's and try it out! I did mean to check the current flow on my meter, but I haven't as of yet ordered some replacement fuses for the meter as they went pop when it was loaned out :p! |
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3rd Jan 2015 9:57pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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Sorry You say in the doors , but its the wires ouside the door in the rubber connecting tube between body and the doors
had lots of central locking actuators play up and not had one blow a fuse , |
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3rd Jan 2015 10:42pm |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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Yes, those ones indeed
 .
Sorry, my phrasing can be a bit off at times! I tend to rush type and always forget to check what I've written. |
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3rd Jan 2015 11:02pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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Ok
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3rd Jan 2015 11:36pm |
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