Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Spare wheel carriers advice! |
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Crafty1980 Member Since: 21 Jul 2014 Location: Norfolk Posts: 74 |
More questions from me! Sorry if I'm a bore...
Wheel carriers... I like them! Well, I certainly like the idea of them anyway. Obviously there will be a lot of love for the mantec one. But I've just spotted this carrier on extreme 4x4 website: http://www.extreme4x4.co.uk/acatalog/REAR_WHEEL_CARRIERS.html I seems (on paper) to be just as good if not better than the mantec one. I like that it can come galvanised as well as powder coated. I like that the hinge is further to the right than the mantec one which means there's less chance of the wheel hitting the lights. I also like the hi-lift jack mount too. Anyone have any opinions? Other options for me to look at? Thanks! |
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3rd Dec 2014 11:06pm |
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leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8578 |
May I suggest you look here
Our prices include VAT The factory which makes those wheel carriers is rather a long way from where I am sat now It is all of 2 miles away If you want to talk about the different options give me a ring on 07929 604668 and can talk you through different options and which wheel carriers fit with which bumperettes etc. We have one on the red 110 which has been modified to take a big radio antenna, been on for at least 8 years if not 10 years. Yes the powder coating is coming off in places, but with the grease nipples it still works fine. Carries a 255/85/16 no problem. If you have a larger tyre and/or want a high lift mount then you might need large tyre option Brendan Last edited by leeds on 4th Dec 2014 12:06am. Edited 1 time in total |
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3rd Dec 2014 11:30pm |
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VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 |
I have one, and I am very satisfied with it! I have it now for about 4 years, only one minor point to mention, next time I would have the galvanised version, as the powder coating on mine has come off at just one spot on the top bracket after 4 years. Otherwise excellent gear.
Click image to enlarge Cheers, Vincent 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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3rd Dec 2014 11:39pm |
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lambert.the.farmer Member Since: 11 Apr 2012 Location: harrogate Posts: 2006 |
How compatible are the tailgate versions of the safari with and ifor Williams canopy with top hinged gate and a 750 tyre? Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon. |
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4th Dec 2014 6:55am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16885 |
I don't know of any COTS wheel carriers that will work without modification with an IW canopy. I have a Sonic3d carrier and had to make an adaptor place to move the wheel further from the carrier's hinge to get the clearance.
I know that Patriot (of roofrack fame) have supplied at leat one forum member with a modified rear flap for the canopy to avoid the problem, and at leat one other forum member simply slides the flap off the canopy rather than hingeing it open. Click image to enlarge |
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4th Dec 2014 1:51pm |
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lambert.the.farmer Member Since: 11 Apr 2012 Location: harrogate Posts: 2006 |
Hmm so in order to clear the top tail gate I would have to move the wheel lower on the carrier which in turn would block the nato pintle on the cross member . Hmm need to think about this. Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon.
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4th Dec 2014 9:09pm |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16885 |
Yes, it is a pain! You can't have the wheel high because it fouls the flap. I moved my wheel to the left to clear the flap, and generally it doesn't interfere with the trailer couplings I use.
It does preclude the use of a NATO pintle or anything else at crossmember height and if I am using one of these I bung the wheel on the roof. Over the years I have thought of a number of possible modifications to avoid these issues but never (yet) had the time to do the necessary fabrication. My current idea involves a scheme to allow the wheel, when the carrier is open, to move far enough over to be outside the sweep of the flap. I have to admit that I am a little surprised than none of the (admittedly very small number of) makers of these carriers for tailgate-fitted vehicles have addressed this issue, since it wouldn't be difficult at the design stage. It must be a very small market niche however. I did toy with the idea of a military XD mount on the bodyside as a simpler option! |
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4th Dec 2014 11:47pm |
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leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8578 |
Thanks BW I think you have enlighten me. Have never owned a pick up and IW canopy so do not appreciate all the issues.
As you rightly point out there are very few makes of wheel carriers available in the UK market and a swingaway wheel carrier for a pickup with an IW canopy fitted would be an extremely small market area and I would doubt if sales figures for such a carrie would get out of single figure sales/year. Those sort of sales figures would mean special one or two offs being made at a time which would push the price up significantly. It is always an issue with sourcing aftermarket equipment from different manufacturers ensuring that they are compatible with each other. Would it be easier to redesign the IW tailgate? For instance have a solid section on the offside and only say a 3/4 width opening tailgate to the IW canopy?? i would imagine thatIW would not rush to provide that srt of solution due to low number of sales. Brendan |
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5th Dec 2014 12:51am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16885 |
Yes, that would be very easy indeed, and indeed this is what the Patriot solution does. More complex flap-oriented alternatives I have also considered include either extending the canopy hinge pins so that you release the fasteners, slide the canopy 10" to the left, then open, or even fitting a vertical piano-type hinge in the flap so that the right hand edge can fold flat against the main part when opening to clear the wheel. In my case I need the full width opening and so am not prepared to adopt a solution wich reduces this. The fundamental problem actually concerns the location of the hinge post of the carrier. Clearly the wheel has to be mounted reasonably high, ideally high enough to leave the crossmember completely clear so that a crossmember-mounted coupling can be used, and it is inevitable that the wheel will be higher than the bottom of the flap. When the carrier is in the open position, to allow the flap to open the wheel must not foul the swept area through which the flap passes whilst being opened. To achieve this the carrier must be such that either the wheel when in the open position is far enough to the offside to allow the flap to pass beside it, or it must be far enough to the rear to allow the flap to pass above it. Since the hinge point of the carrier is constrained by the placement of the rear lights it cannot be closer than approx 10" to the outside corner of the vehicle (see my photo above). This means that for the wheel to end up outboard of the flap when open, it either has to be spaced backwards off the carrier by at least 10" (which means that it is far too far backwards when closed to be practical - there is a huge gap between the wheel and the carrier) or esle tha carrier has to open through about 120 degrees (which means that the outer end is them projecting a dangerous distance beyond the side of the vehicle, so much so that you couldn't open it at the roadside for example). So moving the wheel outboard of the flap is not straightforward! To move the wheel rearward is easier, since rearward when open equates to leftward when closed. This is what I have actually done on mine, and although it was intended as a stop-gap solution it's been like it for years now. By moving the wheel about 6" to the nearside and keeping it as low as I can, it is just clear of the arc of the flap when in the open position. Most of the time this is wholly acceptable, but it isn't great when you need to tow since the low mounted wheel can be in the way (so moves to the roofrack). My current ideas for a well-engineered solution are running along two alternative routes, one would require fabricating a bracket assembly to add to the existing carrier, the other would involve designing a complete new carrier:- Idea 1) Add a hinged "V" shaped bracket between the existing carrier and the wheel. The top of one leg of the "V" bolts to the carrier, the top of the other bolts to the thingy that holds the wheel, the "V" is hinged at the bottom, and at the top there is a catch and locking pin to hold the "V" shut. WHen closed, the carrier would look normal, when swung open you could then remove the locking pin, release the catch, and allow the wheel to tip down and out sufficient to clear the flap. Advantages - cheap and simple to make, could in theory work with just about any kind of swing-away, requires no modification to the carrier itself. Disadvantages -adds some weight, involves another operation when opening. I haven't yet had time to prototype this but do have the materials on hand to do so. Idea 2) Redesign the carrier so that whilst essentially similar it actually uses an inclined hing pin (inclined something like 30 degrees from vertical, so that when viewed from the rear it is at the "1-o'clock" angle but when viewed from the side it is vertical). This would mean that as the wheel was swung open, it would also tilt towards the offside and drop, and with the correct angle the combination of these two movements should allow it to clear the flap. Advantages - a single integrated solution with no additional operating movements involved. Disadvantages - requires the fabrication of a wholly novel design of carrier so a much bigger job to prototype, would naturally swing into the open position aided by the weight of the wheel, so security of fastening may be an issue and some form of gas-strut-assistance may be needed to close. If this design were made commercially then due to low production volumes it would be likely to cost £800 to £1000, so it probably would never be a commercially viable product due to the limited size of the market. One day I will get round to prototyping both ideas! Editted (repeatedly) to correct spelling mistakes mostly introduced by *** predictive text! |
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5th Dec 2014 1:06pm |
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lambert.the.farmer Member Since: 11 Apr 2012 Location: harrogate Posts: 2006 |
Interesting ideas there, I will have to think them through with a tea tonight. Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon.
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5th Dec 2014 4:11pm |
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Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 4990 |
Fitted the latest Nak wheel carrier and gas door strut for a client today and have to say it's quality kit and very easy to fit unlike other stuff I have put on Landies. 'Leeds' as always is only a phone call away for fitting advice
Wish I had my old Defender back |
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5th Dec 2014 7:41pm |
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sven Member Since: 29 Dec 2011 Location: Oslo Posts: 80 |
Finally a solid wheel carrier for softtop from Nakatanenga.
Do you ship to Norway Leeds? 2009 Land Rover Defender 90 SVX Soft top 60th Anniversary Edition |
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8th Dec 2014 8:54pm |
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leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8578 |
Yes we can ship to Norway.
If you email me the delivery address including post/zip code and phone number I will get some quotes for carriage. Norway being out of the EU, the costs will be less UK VAT. On our website it is not possible to just order items if you are outside the UK. Simple reason being we have to pack the items, weigh and measure the box then get quotes for carriage which we are quite happy to do. We have sent wheel carriers to Zambia and the Philippines so Norway is not a real problem. Just had a quick look and carriage to Oslo does not appear as bad as I feared. Now you are about to tell me you live in a remote area of Norway where carriers do not want to go?? Brendan |
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8th Dec 2014 9:13pm |
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davew Member Since: 02 Jan 2012 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 888 |
For the IW rear door, why not add a full width horizontal hinge half way up it. Essentially cut the door in half, hinge it and you can lift it up and out. Similar to a Range Rover load cover if you've used one of those. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
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8th Dec 2014 9:24pm |
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