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Jonno



Member Since: 06 Mar 2012
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 234

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Santorini Black
Tdci fuel filter
I thought I'd better change the fuel filter on the 2.4 Tdci as it has done 19000 miles.

Everything went well, there was a small amount of spillage into my oil change pan when I took the old filter off, it looked as though the filter mount would keep on flowing fuel until the new one went on. The tank was full and the car slighty nose down.

I put the new filter on dry and disconnected the fuel pipe on the engine and pulled through 3-4 litres of fuel with a fuel bleeding bulb. This then went back into the tank. The spillage from the old filter was soaked into rag then burnt as it had noticeable water in it. After quickly reconnecting the fuel feed it started immediately and stumbled for a second once before running as normal.

The old filter was pretty black and very slimy looking. Definitely ready for changing. The large particles are from the hacksaw opening the canister.

Jonno

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Post #375808 2nd Dec 2014 2:14pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5408

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
I hope you don't suffer the same problems as me after changing filter. I had a failed vcv, as they are fussy about the quality of fluid.

Andy
Post #375811 2nd Dec 2014 2:38pm
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Jonno



Member Since: 06 Mar 2012
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 234

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Santorini Black
Hopefully not, I tried to keep everything as clean as possible.... the engine inlet was left open for a few minutes, in an ideal world this should have been capped. Maybe next time I'll stick a bit of cling film over it.

I used a fuel priming bulb as I didn't like the other method of filling the filter...as what flows out will be unfiltered and its a gamble whether it is totally clean fuel that goes in.

I figured by drawing off a few litres of diesel it would clear the air from the lines and also flush out anything that shouldn't be in the new filter.

These few litres then went back into the tank to be refiltered and used.

I really don't like some of the methods others suggest, a mate who works for a unnamed main dealer reckons he pours the contents of the old filter into the new, sticks it on and cranks until it goes...to me that's taking a hell of a gamble on hoping no contaminants go down the lines and also pretty much disrespecting the customers vehicle. Also what's the point in changing the filter if you empty the crud out of the old one into it?

It's stories like this that make me never use garages....I'm quite capable of trashing my own car thanks ! Although I'm sure there are plenty of conscientious garages, in the past I always seemed to get the monkeys.

I know some people think all this fuel system cleanliness is taking things too far, but when you look into the tolerances involved, they really should be worked on in almost clean room conditions.

I think I'm taking the middle ground by putting it on dry and drawing some fuel through. If it all goes wrong I'll let everybody know and then figure out a better method....

Jonno
Post #375823 2nd Dec 2014 3:49pm
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ozy013



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 105

Australia 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Rimini Red
Hey Jonno, I use one of these when putting fuel into a new filter.http://www.mrfunnel.com/Mr._Funnel/Home.html.

The one i have filters down to 5 microns, I have a real small one specifically for filling the fuel filter, and a larger one with a flow rate of about 13ltrs per minute. I use this one when out bush, whether filling from servo's or jerry cans.

It's saved me twice so far, and on both occasions it was dodgy fuel from a servo, whilst filling at the pump.
Post #376052 3rd Dec 2014 12:20pm
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Dieselhead



Member Since: 21 Oct 2012
Location: Pulborough. West Sussex
Posts: 552

All I do when I change my filter is make sure is the area is clean which others have said

I fill up the new filter before I remove the old one

Then remove the old filter & fit the new one as quick as I can,

Then start & let it tick over, I make sure I have more than 1/2 tank of fuel before I start Chris

2008 XS 110 2.4 Utility. Tonga Green
1953 Series 1 for restoration
1983 Mini Mayfair
2004 VW T5 Camper
2008 Diahatsu Sirion. Thats hers
Classic Bolens Garden Tractors
Post #376102 3rd Dec 2014 3:55pm
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AlanH



Member Since: 15 Mar 2010
Location: WA
Posts: 242

Australia 
I do much the same and have never bothered too much about every bit of dust there may be around but just generally keep it clean.
Must say I've never had a filter looking as dirty as that. Surely that points to some problem in the tank?
AlanH.
Post #378332 12th Dec 2014 8:51am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
the first job I done on mine when I got it new was to make a better cover for the filter housing under the wheel arch as it stuck me as a very poor design to have a open top on the std cover allowing dirt and water over the filter housing

now when I change the filter if I take the cover off its nice and clean under there , quick dust off with air line and change filter without the risk of dirt dropping in new one

you would be amazed what goes on in garages , unscrew old filter , pour diesel into new one then top out of dirty jug that the old filter have been left to drain out in to , started up and seen this thousands of times and never known a problem , then or after

at least we use clean diesel from a jug , that I try to keep clean as possible !!
Post #378345 12th Dec 2014 10:00am
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Jonno



Member Since: 06 Mar 2012
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 234

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Santorini Black
I'm not going to nick anyone's photos off the internet but if you search for images of the "diesel bug" that bit of slime / sludge in the bottom of the filter canister looks just like it, but obviously less severe than most of the photos you can find.

I suspect we have the bio element in the fuel to blame for that, that can be anything from vegetable oils to **ap from animal rendering plants.

Hopefully the tank isn't totally full of rubbish and gunk, but it wouldn't surprise me if it was.

The paper element itself as you can see was also totally covered in slime, it seems that modern diesel isn't what it used to be !

That said the car had no running problems, however next time I might change the filter after 12,000 miles

Jonno
Post #378692 13th Dec 2014 4:33pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Just taking a loook around the vehicle before it goes in for a service and found these bolts to be the most rusted on the whole vehicle - have I got a set of poorly finished bolts or are they all like this as a result of being encased?


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Post #418110 22nd Apr 2015 7:42am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
I put Dinitrol on those, and the cover is prone to rust too.
Did all of that with it if you mask of bits that it shouldn't go onto.
Post #418113 22nd Apr 2015 7:56am
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Jonno



Member Since: 06 Mar 2012
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 234

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Santorini Black
Supacat wrote:
Just taking a loook around the vehicle before it goes in for a service and found these bolts to be the most rusted on the whole vehicle - have I got a set of poorly finished bolts or are they all like this as a result of being encased?


Click image to enlarge


That looks like accelerated corrosion due to road salt to me. Its nothing serious and will happen to any steel in the presence of salt. As others have said slap some Dinitrol on it and it it'll be fine.

Jonno
Post #418114 22nd Apr 2015 8:06am
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2664

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Really informative, thanks, I'll be doing mine soon.

Any chance you could drop a picture of the point where you" disconnected the fuel pipe on the engine and pulled through 3-4 litres" - can you show where you did this please? I've been looking at the pumps (the Land Rover and the Laser one) and wondering about this...

Cheers Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #418123 22nd Apr 2015 8:58am
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Jonno



Member Since: 06 Mar 2012
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 234

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Santorini Black
I'm away at the moment but will try to take a pic when I'm home in a few days.

After 5 months or so its still running well so it doesn't appear to have caused any damage.

Jonno
Post #418130 22nd Apr 2015 9:23am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Anyone got the spec on the bolts they look like M8 with a flanged head but before I take one off it would be good to know the length.

I was just going to get them replaced with A4 stainless ones before applying any corrosion block.
Post #418131 22nd Apr 2015 9:23am
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andydef90



Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 617

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
hi what fuel have you been using would not expect that amount in a filter with such low mileage
Post #418155 22nd Apr 2015 12:18pm
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