 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Turbo failure, please HELP! |
 
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| Jonno Member Since: 06 Mar 2012 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 234   
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Well it's possible that an electrical issue could affect the turbo as it is an electrically adjustable variable vane system rather than a traditional wastegated turbo.
I'd get it back to the garage and let them check their work. Jonno |
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10th Nov 2014 7:50am |
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| Mack Member Since: 11 Jan 2014 Location: Central America Posts: 58 
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Hi Jonno, thank you for your post.
I came to the dealership at 725 am (they open at 730), but they told me to come back on thursday 730 sharp. They wouldnt give me any advice, just said it might be the EGR valve and come back to the appointment. Is there any possible danger for my engine (or turbo) if I use it on this "limp" mode? I dont want to damage the truck but I really need it, its my daily commuter and workhorse. I have another vehicle but its not suited for the job. Cheers Mack |
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10th Nov 2014 2:43pm |
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| fatman Member Since: 14 Jan 2014 Location: Athens-Greece Posts: 126  
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Long shot(if it happened all of the sudden) but just in case check the battery terminals and while you're there do a "hard reset",disconnect both terminals and touch the + and - cables together(without them touching on battery) for half a minute and connect them again..
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10th Nov 2014 4:12pm |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
If you can do a DTC check with a diagnostic tool. That way it will definitely narrow down the cause of the issue and as it illuminated the MIL light the issue will be on the emissions side, MAF, MAP, Turbo, Fuel rail, injectors etc etc. Guess work aside try three ignition cycles and see if the fault clears, the MIL will go out. When the Puma goes into limp mode, stop the vehicle and switch off, wait a couple of seconds and restart. Pull away and drive as normal. If the Limp mode re occurs then the likely hood is there is an issue somewhere that keeps failing the self test cycle, again a DTC check of the EMS will illuminate. If it does not re enter limp mode then all the better, the fault will be stored in the EMS for the dealer to diagnose. Have a read of this post I did a while ago on DTC's:
Thought I would try and explain the differences in DTC codes. So here goes: There are basically two types of DTC codes for OBDII Diagnostics: Emissions related DTC's Tested DTC's Type A 1. Emissions related. 2. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will be illuminated as soon as the error occurs. 3. Stores a freeze frame DTC after one failed driving cycle.( history DTC is stored ) Type B 1. Emissions related. 2. Sets a Pending Trouble Code after one failed driving cycle. 3. Clears a Pending Trouble Code after one successful driving cycle. 4. Turns on the MIL after two/three consecutive failed driving cycles. 5. Stores a Pending Trouble Code as a DTC after two consecutive failed driving cycles. Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC – Type A or Type B The MIL will turn off after four consecutive driving cycles in which the diagnostic runs without a fault. A history DTC will clear after 40 consecutive warm up cycles without a fault. DTC(s) can be cleared by using a scan/diagnostic tool. Non–Emissions Related DTCs Un Tested DTC's Action Taken When the DTC Sets 1. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will not illuminate. 2. The ECM will record a DTC at the time the diagnostic fails. Conditions for Clearing the DTC A history DTC will clear after 40 consecutive warm up cycles without a fault. DTC(s) can be cleared by using a scan/diagnostic tool. How to read a DTC Code The DTC value will help you narrow down the specific component or module in question. A DTC has a standardized format that can be interpreted as follows: The first part of the DTC is the Alpha Designator. The alpha designator will be: B - Body electronics (i.e., door and hood latches) C - Chassis (i.e., traction control or ABS) P - Powertrain (i.e., engine, transmission) U - Network communications for the different control modules Second Digit - Code Type The second digit identifies whether the code is a generic code (same on all OBD-II equpped vehicles), or a manufacturer specific code. 0 = Generic (The diagnostic codes that are required by law on all OBD II systems are "generic" in the sense that all vehicle manufacturers use the same common code list and the same 16-pin diagnostic connector. Thus, a P0301 misfire code on a Ford means the same thing on a Vauxhall, Citroen, Toyota or Mercedes.) 1 = Enhanced ( Each vehicle manufacturers also have the freedom to add their own "enhanced" codes to provide even more detailed information about various faults. Enhanced codes also cover non-emission related failures that occur outside the engine control system. These include ABS codes, HVAC codes, airbag codes and other body and electrical codes.) Third Digit - Sub-System The third digit denotes the type of sub-system that pertains to the code 1 = Emission Management (Fuel or Air) 2 = Injector Circuit (Fuel or Air) 3 = Ignition or Misfire 4 = Emission Control 5 = Vehicle Speed & Idle Control 6 = Computer & Output Circuit 7 = Transmission 8 = Transmission 9 = SAE Reserved 0 = SAE Reserved Fourth and Fifth Digits These digits, along with the others, are variable, and relate to a particular problem code error number So let's diagnose a DTC, I've picked P0404-73 EGR control circuit range/performance: actuator stuck closed so we have: P = Powertrain (engine, transmission) 0 = Generic 4 = Emissions control 0 4 =This is the specific error code within Emission control. In this case the EGR control circuit range/performance -73= This is a specific problem, in this case the actuator is stuck closed. 72 means its stuck open. HTH  |
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10th Nov 2014 6:29pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3618 
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Lorryman I love your posts. LOL ! can I come to you if mine ever plays up?? DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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10th Nov 2014 6:36pm |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
 I love you (r)......... Probably be cheaper going to the dealer than the fuel bill to get up here to me.  |
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10th Nov 2014 7:56pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3618
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indeed that is true DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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10th Nov 2014 8:42pm |
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| Mack Member Since: 11 Jan 2014 Location: Central America Posts: 58
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Hi Lorryman, I really appreciate your time spent in your reply. I dont have any diagnostic equipment. I dont live extremely far from the city but gadget-tool wise we are in the 1800's (computers and smart phones aside). The only garage that has one for Land Rover is the dealer, and they wont see me until thursday.
I tried turning on and off the ignition several times and unplugged the battery. I used the truck today and it seems it might be the EGR (there is no chuka chuka cleaning cycle after turning it off). Asked the dealer they have ONE (my lucky day) for $550 (usd). Then again, until thursday they will check the truck and replace the EGR if they confirm thats what it is. Am I risking the truck if I use it? It goes slow and powerless only uphill, when its flat it does 60 kph without much effort and thats ok for me, for now. The dealer didnt say yes use it or not until they check it. Thanks again Mack |
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11th Nov 2014 12:05am |
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| Mack Member Since: 11 Jan 2014 Location: Central America Posts: 58
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Fatman
Thanks alot for your post, my fellow 130 owner! I did as you advised but its still the same. Useful trick in case something similar happens in the future! Cheers Mack |
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11th Nov 2014 12:08am |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3618
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$550 USD that is extortionate, might be worth getting one posted from the UK b y a site sponsor I'm sure it would work out cheaper if a bit slower DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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11th Nov 2014 7:29am |
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| Eduardo Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Región Metropolitana Posts: 2109  
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Humm
USD 550 looks expensive but taking in account the freight and custom taxes in central America could be. The strange thing (at least for me) is the electric failure that you had. That should not be related with the EGR failure and should be assesed. I hope that you can solve the problem. Saludos desde Chile Eduardo MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64' MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"  Click image to enlarge |
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11th Nov 2014 11:56am |
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| Mack Member Since: 11 Jan 2014 Location: Central America Posts: 58
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LR90XS2011
Thanks for your post. Yes indeed feels almost like an armed robbery. Jap trucks have the market here Defenders are almost considered exotic, the dealer takes advantage. I paid $1400 only for the clutch. The whole bill was for $2700 for all the work done, and it really was little work. I dont have a jap truck mainly for 2 reasons 1. I dislike them very much (dont really know why, they have never done anything to me!) 2. For my line of work I go to rural and remote areas, driving a jap truck is almost having a gun to your head, they get stolen very often for spares. In a LR you can drive by safely, they are not attractive to steal. Have you purchased any spares from any site sponsor? Before I got the work done on my truck I tried to import the spares from ashcroft but Dave didnt seem to be interested on my business I guess it meant too much trouble for him. I still want to import some spares to have in hand in case of an emergency (injectors, fuel pump, water pump, some sensors) so I dont have to pay another $350 for a MAF. Thanks again. Cheers Mack |
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11th Nov 2014 2:40pm |
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| Mack Member Since: 11 Jan 2014 Location: Central America Posts: 58
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Eduardo
Yes, its expensive. Got to add another $150 for fitting the EGR. If I fit it somewhere else I dont get warranty for it in case it fails. The electrical issue was my radio died. My 130 is the high capacity S version (no electric package and vinyl washable interior) so it came without a Radio so the dealer fit a Pioneer Mosfet 50wx4. It was just a mere unlucky coincidence. Ill fit an eclipse next week I ordered online from the US. Thanks for your time spent on your post! Cheers Mack ¡Saludos! |
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11th Nov 2014 2:50pm |
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| Mack Member Since: 11 Jan 2014 Location: Central America Posts: 58
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All sorted out, the problem was the EGR. Got a discount at the dealer (total $510 usd) for the part and labour. Thank you all for your helpful replies. I hope after this I get many more trouble free miles.
Cheers Mack |
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28th Nov 2014 4:51pm |
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