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steventheplumber



Member Since: 29 Apr 2014
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 767

England 1987 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Keswick Green
My one light up with the ignition on as well Steve depends on the way you wire them I suppose


Click image to enlarge


sorry cant help with original wiring.
Post #380198 19th Dec 2014 8:41am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
The genuine switches should have the green back lighting with the lights on like the rest of the dash and Amber / red pilot on when turned on I'd have though?
I suppose you could do the same with the Waeco's too though but would need some re wiring.
Post #380212 19th Dec 2014 9:23am
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steventheplumber



Member Since: 29 Apr 2014
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 767

England 1987 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Keswick Green
Sorry Steve did not it clear, backlight come on with ignition push for heat amber light comes on = warm bum
Post #380223 19th Dec 2014 10:09am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
I get you, that was what I was meaning too. Thumbs Up
Post #380231 19th Dec 2014 10:38am
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6676

United Kingdom 
I suggest you retain the entire Waeco loom, connect it as they suggest and place it in the seat box.

You can then use our kit as intended and just switch the ignition feed on the Waeco kit.

This will give you a factory standard look to your wiring and switches (courtesy of the FCX kit) and the facility to switch between heat settings using the Waeco loom (if you so desire), also neither kit has to be butchered thus keep warranties intact
Post #380233 19th Dec 2014 10:46am
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steventheplumber



Member Since: 29 Apr 2014
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 767

England 1987 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Keswick Green
Thumbs Up



Click image to enlarge

custom90steve wrote:
I get you, that was what I was meaning too. Thumbs Up


work in progress.
Post #380250 19th Dec 2014 11:48am
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Dave T



Member Since: 07 Jun 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Cairns Blue
Steven, how did you get the cables from the console to the seats? 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi
Post #381794 25th Dec 2014 11:52am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
I've got the wiring in, just need to get the seat pads in and that side of wiring.
A bit of testing first then the final fit, I've got a pair of super seal connectors to replace the White plugs on the pads between the backrest and seat base.
Not very keen on the White plugs, the super seals are up to 8 A rated.
Post #386471 8th Jan 2015 7:31pm
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PaulMc



Member Since: 17 Jan 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 469

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Arles Blue
custom90steve wrote:
"Not very keen on the White plugs"


When I bought a Waeco MSH60 kit for Mrs Mc's Hyundai, I did some searching to see who made the White connectors.

They're made by – The HongXing Electrical Company Ltd, Zhejiang, China –

http://www.hxdy.com/NewProductsLook.asp?id=85

. Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'
Post #386483 8th Jan 2015 7:50pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
Laughing
The tail I will solder on and heashrink and the remaining white connector will be replaced by Superseals.
Thus no white plugs left.
I don't like the difficulty they are to disconnect, I can see them being a pain in the ass when removing the seat base.
The superseals are much more fluid to remove, in this instance even better than Econoseals for suitability.
Post #386508 8th Jan 2015 8:28pm
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steventheplumber



Member Since: 29 Apr 2014
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 767

England 1987 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Keswick Green
Dave T wrote:
Steven, how did you get the cables from the console to the seats?

Sorry it took so long to get back to you Dave, I run them from the battery box along chassis up engine bay through bulkhead in behind radio. Hope that helps.
Post #386836 9th Jan 2015 8:15pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
New soldering iron arrived today, a gas one this time with a proper heat output. Twisted Evil
Not the pathetic cheapie blue electric one I had before that wouldn't even hardly melt the solder.
That will be ideal for the little bit of soldering and heatshrinking.

I've got the 2x Superseal connectors on tonight which is the connection between backrest and seat base.
I'm hoping for the genuine connector I can hide the rest of that.

One thing I'd like a little help with though if anyone could kindly offer to tomorrow is snap a photo.

I'd like to see how the OE XS seats connector exits the seat to head towards the connector on the top of the seatbox.
I am thinking it likely exits the seat somewhere through the metal base and through a rubber grommet.
If I have a photo it would be ideal to use as reference and I can copy the OE look.

Could anyone?

Smile
Post #386869 9th Jan 2015 9:33pm
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Dave T



Member Since: 07 Jun 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Cairns Blue
Had my first run out with seats yesterday, they are pretty hot, even through additional waterproof seat covers, and even the low is more than adequate. 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi
Post #387681 12th Jan 2015 12:37pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
Thanks for the advice, definitely the lower setting us the one to choose.

Yes, I loose the two setting warm up but I can live with that more so that
N miles of wiring and non genuine switches.
Post #387683 12th Jan 2015 12:40pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
Done a bit of work today:

Click image to enlarge

Gave it a test on the higher heat setting, as desired it heats up pretty quick but after a short while it gets too much.
I wanted to try it to see what it was like so tomorrow I'll wire it to the lower heat setting and see what that is like.
The lower setting is what I will be sticking with.

For any that are interested in Waeco wire colours =

Black - negative

Red - Higher heat setting.

Green - Lower heat setting.

With the genuine switches you can only have one heat setting so the spare wire can simply be full encapsulated and concealed in heatshrink perfectly safely providing it's glue lined.

The one joint I did have to make was soldered and the other is a superseal connector, then joins to genuine plugs.

Really impressed with my new Dremel gas soldering iron too, first use of it today.
Post #389521 17th Jan 2015 7:57pm
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