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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816   
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Never saw that company mentioned on here. But their website surely looks good, and the step by step treatment process is well elaborated on. I would suggest you talk with them, and ask specific questions as to how they plan to treat your rear crossmember, how they will access/treat the bulkhead, do they plan to treat the front bumper, etc. All these should be treated with a specific soft transparant Dinitrol wax (forgot the product code) but you can find that in our Zagat sticky on the site. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467.html
Ask them besides the wheels what else will they remove for access (rear lights for instance are an easy one), how high up will they treat the A/B/C piles, etc. and what do they plan to remove as interior trim to access that. Are they doing something about the doors, and will they remove the interior trim for doing so. (Also soft Dinitrol wax all this). I also know that Dinitrol have an official treatment manual for each and every car, including the Puma Defenders, which they should follow. Carefully try to figure out if they know of such manual, etc. By asking such questions you should get a good feeling about their approach, and then you decide. The first company here in our area which I asked gave the wrong answers. When I asked them about how they would treat the bulkhead, the answer was that the access to that was not really possible as the engine was blocking it. 
The second company here was just being expensive, but when asking when they had treated their last Land Rover, it sounded like 10 years ago.... Thereafter I even went all the way to Belgium to get it done, as Land Rover Belgium steered me in the direction of a Volvo dealer who also does Dinitrol treatment since ages now, and when speaking with the owner, I just got all the right answers. Good luck, and look for the right company now before you have the truck, and get it all done right from new. 
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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5th Oct 2014 6:32am |
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| Fellrunner Member Since: 28 Sep 2014 Location: Wandering Posts: 255  
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Thanks for such a helpful and informative reply. Much appreciated.
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5th Oct 2014 8:36am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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reading there process looks good , I like the bit about spraying a wax first then the underseal
undersealing straight on chassis etc is a waste of time as far as im concerned as the water will get under it and rust away unseen my late dad and I have always rust proofed our own cars from new and done a few customers cars as well , I have the same waxing guns as there using in the pictures on there process page even if you have a brand new vehicle I would not want underseal sprayed on anywhere , it sticks well but water WILL get under it after time and all it will do is hold it there there is two sides to rust proofing / coatings etc soft coating (just wax) something you can scratch with your nail good points , wont hold water, will self repair with time as wax creeps with heat . can be removed by steam cleaning if needs re doing , easier to check condition of metal undernearth , can be sprayed on gearbox/engine block NOT exhaust/turbo/manifold and can even be sprayed over damp as damp will dry through it leaving wax behind , creeps deep into corners and into welded joints , can be sprayed much thinner to soak in bad points harder to clean as small bits of dirt will stick in soft coating , will need re doing in wear areas . repairs/maintenance easier hard coating (underseal/stone chip ) good points easy to clean , maybe bit of noise reduction , harder wearing bad points peels off in lumps , holds water behind , hides any rust starting , doesn't self repair , doesn't kill rust like some waxs that have a acid to kill rust , looks like your trying to hide rust , makes repairs/maintenance harder as normally thicker and harder to get sockets etc on bolts/nuts makes repair a bl@@dy pain , you cant remove as easy to redo , burns/catches fire if you want to weld anything , must be bone dry , doesn't creep , cant check metal underneath any cavity has to be wax and a wax that stays soft Last edited by munch90 on 5th Oct 2014 9:20am. Edited 5 times in total |
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5th Oct 2014 9:03am |
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| GUM97 Member Since: 05 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3555  
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Where abouts are you based? There may be a few other options in the areas too...
An engine to TDi for!
"Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948"  |
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5th Oct 2014 9:09am |
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| landys1 Member Since: 04 Dec 2013 Location: Cheshire Posts: 134 
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Hi, I used chassis clean to do my 90 a few months ago - Richard (the owner) is very helpful. They did an excellent job with great attention to detail. This is not a quick spray over. Underside thoroughly cleaned, any rusty bits treated, then the two stage wax treatment, 3 days in all. Highly reccommended, the only downside is they have a very long waiting list, think I waited about 4 months for a a slot - but worth it! 1959 Series 2 Ragtop
1989 SWB Stationwagon 1998 300Tdi Hard Top and 2012 2.2 Puma Hardtop (at work) 2011 Puma 90 2.4 XS |
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5th Oct 2014 9:23am |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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The only thing I don't like in Chassis Clean process is that after the steam/water cleaning they let the car dry overnight with heated airflow. Overnight? I think to make the car bone dry you need much longer than that. When I drove my truck to Belgium, I first made sure it was fully clean already here in Geneva, then there was a warm dry week here, and I drove it in dry sunny conditions to Belgium, so the Dinitrol station got it from me absolutely dry.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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5th Oct 2014 9:56am |
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| Fellrunner Member Since: 28 Sep 2014 Location: Wandering Posts: 255
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Wow - thanks all for your help and advice.
I'm based near Bolton. Chassis Clean offer Dinatrol 4010 clear hard wax as an option. Is that worth it/a useful top cover to have? |
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5th Oct 2014 12:08pm |
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| Cuthbert Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: Up North Posts: 1535 |
As Winter approaches I would argue that doing a high quality treatment in the UK is well nigh impossible at this time of year - unless your chosen contractor has a shed where ambient temperatures and humidity levels are appropriate and time is not of the essence.
The idea of someone jet washing/steam cleaning a chassis thoroughly and having the internals fully dried out in a heated shed overnight is quite frankly laughable. I'd wager their energy bill for getting the job done correctly would be more than they could charge for the anti-corrosion treatment stage. As EricV has done his homework - read and learn. I note he had his vehicle done in the Summer and his chosen treatment would have flowed into the warm (dry) recesses of the chassis a lot better than tackling the job in Winter. |
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5th Oct 2014 9:24pm |
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| Fellrunner Member Since: 28 Sep 2014 Location: Wandering Posts: 255
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Cuthbert - thanks for your advice.
If I have a choice of doing nothing to the chassis until next summer, by which time it'll have been exposed to a winter of salty roads, or doing something straight away whilst not ideal, which option is best? Or, do I just leave it completely and put a galv chassis on in 5-10 years time (I can't find anyone to have previously recommended this though). Thanks |
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6th Oct 2014 9:39pm |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265 
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Well my chassis is 10 years old and just starting to need a bit of love.
You have time |
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6th Oct 2014 9:51pm |
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| adamatdraycott Member Since: 11 Nov 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 299 
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I got mine done @ only 5 days old. Luckily between the 1st and 5th March was totally dry so my truck was lovely and dry... The 200mile drive to CSK helped to make sure
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6th Oct 2014 10:03pm |
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| RFT Member Since: 13 Nov 2010 Location: Cheshire Posts: 674 
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I had mine done a Chassis Clean, it is not just a barn with a lot of hot air, they have a small enclosed bay with pit and plenty of heat and correct ventilation. Their attention to detail was excellent.
Richard 130 Puma HCPU with an Artica 240LR Demountable Camper |
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6th Oct 2014 10:13pm |
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| landys1 Member Since: 04 Dec 2013 Location: Cheshire Posts: 134
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captain_slow - I had same problem, bought my 90 last November. I just lightly sprayed some duck oil over the chassis every couple of weeks over the winter. Chassis looked as good as new in May when I had the treatment done at Chassis Clean. 1959 Series 2 Ragtop
1989 SWB Stationwagon 1998 300Tdi Hard Top and 2012 2.2 Puma Hardtop (at work) 2011 Puma 90 2.4 XS |
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7th Oct 2014 7:41am |
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| Fellrunner Member Since: 28 Sep 2014 Location: Wandering Posts: 255
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Hi All
Thanks again for all of the advice so far received. I've now heard back from Chassis Clean, and they can't fit me in until March next year. The consensus seems to be there's little point getting it done at this time of the year anyway, as conditions don't help in the preparation. Therefore I'm planning to give it a good coating with something like ACF50 and then get the proper treatment in early spring next year. I'm a bit of an over-analyser, so would be grateful for any final thoughts and confirmations on the above approach. Thanks again |
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29th Oct 2014 11:32am |
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