 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > T-box and Body Alignment |
 
|
|
|
| mrwoo Member Since: 03 Jan 2008 Location: Cheshire Posts: 281   
|
The 'bowing' as you call it below the door handles is really bad on my drivers door! I have compared it to the passenger door and the 'bowing' is is almost double. I am going to the dealers on Friday to request a new door. Rich 1964 Series IIA SWB Truck Cab - gone 1981 Series III SWB Hardtop - gone 1982 Series III SWB Hardtop - gone 1997 300Tdi Defender 90 Hardtop - gone 1983 Series III SWB Station Wagon - gone 1979 Series III SWB Station Wagon - gone 2007 90 CSW - gone 2010 USW XS - gone 2010 110 USW - gone 1959 Series II Truck Cab 1984 Series III CSW 2004 TD5 90 CSW |
||
19th May 2010 7:04am |
|
| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
|
You may find the new door is even worse.
I might have a right side door without THAT problem:  Click image to enlarge As you can see the door is almost straight around the door handle. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
||
|
19th May 2010 9:13am |
|
| mrwoo Member Since: 03 Jan 2008 Location: Cheshire Posts: 281
|
I think the poor door quality is especially worse on the Puma Defenders, I had to re-align all of my doors, I know how I can strengthen the door and straighten them out using 5mm steel sheet but why should I. 1964 Series IIA SWB Truck Cab - gone
1981 Series III SWB Hardtop - gone 1982 Series III SWB Hardtop - gone 1997 300Tdi Defender 90 Hardtop - gone 1983 Series III SWB Station Wagon - gone 1979 Series III SWB Station Wagon - gone 2007 90 CSW - gone 2010 USW XS - gone 2010 110 USW - gone 1959 Series II Truck Cab 1984 Series III CSW 2004 TD5 90 CSW |
||
|
19th May 2010 2:26pm |
|
| harveyg77 Member Since: 09 Apr 2010 Location: Derby Posts: 309
|
New transfer box fitted, level still sits in the middle, but it does illuminate the diff-lock lever, so assume it now works.
They've also done a brilliant job on all the doors, except the right rear door. This now sits proud of the rubbers and so generates noise, also its got a big dent running along the bottom about 4" then up along the 45-degree return (by the rear wheel) for another couple of inches. If I didn't know better I would say someone dropped the door! The paint work is cracked, so no doubt my lovely steel door will rust if its not replaced or repaired immediately! Bit annoying as I had thought they did a good job without managing to  anything up.
Harvey |
||
|
29th Jun 2010 8:56pm |
|
| harveyg77 Member Since: 09 Apr 2010 Location: Derby Posts: 309
|
Defender back in for three days for them to repair the door they dropped. Wen to collect it today and had to reject due to the door looking a shade or two darker than the rest of the car. So its back in now until the end of the week for them to do something that will convince me it looks fine.
|
||
|
14th Jul 2010 8:52pm |
|
| ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328
|
Tell them to stop painting edge to edge they will have to swallow and blend correctly
 |
||
|
14th Jul 2010 9:38pm |
|
| harveyg77 Member Since: 09 Apr 2010 Location: Derby Posts: 309
|
Hi ken,
The dealer did say they would have to blend it across the body now to look right. He claimed that it was not the paint, but the clear coat lacquer that is the problem. Alleging that they can get the paiont right, but the bodyshop must put a thicker coat of lacquer on than the factory. Whatever, until it looks right I am keeping their Freelander and will keep rejecting mine 
Harvey |
||
|
15th Jul 2010 7:57am |
|
| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266  
|
I just had an idea with regards to the door 'bowing' under the handle.
not sure if this will work as well as the 5mm steel plate metioned by mrwoo but its alot easier. drill an inconspecious 5mm hole in the internal door trim and then proceed to completely fill with builder foam. job done 2 - 3 minutes per door. 
joking aside - mrwood are you suggesting glueing a 5mm sheet to the inside of the door circa 1ft sq panel? |
||
|
15th Jul 2010 9:53am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16946 
|
Careful with the expanding foam! I once saw this idea being applied to the 6'x2' door of a custom electronics rack. For shielding purposes the door was double skinned and it was felt that it would be better if the gap was filled with something. Our intrepid engineer drilled an inconspicuous hole in the inner skin and blasted a quantity of expanding foam through the hole. He then watched in dismay as the door skins bulged until a lot of the rivets holding the skin on ripped out! The door was completely destroyed. It is potent stuff.
|
||
|
15th Jul 2010 12:53pm |
|
| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266
|
so should resolve any bowing then?
|
||
|
15th Jul 2010 1:11pm |
|
| niglyn Member Since: 12 Jun 2009 Location: Surrey Posts: 82 
|
The foam trick may work on a series LR as they don't have wind down windows
I assume the panel is deformed by the door handle fixings. Should have investigated when I had my inners off for gunging. It may be possible to put a few packing washers between the inner frame & outer door skin so when the handle bolts are tightened it does not deform the outer skin...... |
||
|
15th Jul 2010 5:01pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
