 | Home > Technical > Strongest standard front axle set-up |
 
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| g-mack Member Since: 07 Jan 2014 Location: northumberland Posts: 1967  
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if your running 35s you obviously like to play
 so risk of breaking stuff is higher. if money is tight i would put the standard older one on for 50 euro and chuck a spare in the back!!! you would have to go through a fair few of them to make buying Ashcroft cv and shafts worthwhile.
but if money no object, go for the tougher shaft and cv joint My 109 thread
my youtube channel |
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30th Jul 2014 10:09am |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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You think also that the older setup is stronger than the new one?
And yes I like to play:  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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30th Jul 2014 11:13am |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6041 
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I always thought the strongest (cheapest route) setup was:
4 pin diff. Ashcroft HD 23/24 spline halfshafts early AEU2522 type CV joints (and thus the earlier wider hubs) Of course, if money is no object then just HD Ashcroft stuff throughout and then you can keep the later thinner hubs (don't know if they're any weaker than the earlier "wider" hubs.... some say there is less stress/wear on the wheel bearings as they're wider apart.....  ) |
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30th Jul 2014 11:43am |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039
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Thanks guys, but are there only 2 subject matter experts?
 Roel
1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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31st Jul 2014 8:24am |
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| uncas Member Since: 22 Nov 2012 Location: Wentworth near Rotherham Posts: 340
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Roel if it took you 5years to break a noisy standard cv joint I should think that a new standard one should last a fair while. Just go a little easier on the loud pedal , as gmac suggested buy 2 fit one and keep the other for a spare.
Being a tight rsd Yorkshire man I couldn't justify spending £450.00 on Ashcroft's gear. (and I am not implying that there's anything wrong with Ashcroft's gear) Scots men might be canny but a Yorkshire man is tight he's got short arms deep pockets and effall in em. Uncas |
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31st Jul 2014 9:15am |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039
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My parts supplier learn me a lesson last Friday. My CV joint would cost me 165 euro before tax. I said something like that is a lot more then I expected.
The part of his answer what I can repeat here was the first bit: Roel, this what I have to hear all day, you had a look at the internet I presume? When I said Yes his answer was:    and a little more I won't repeat.
I will do a translation: Almost everybody (like me) looks at the internet and notices cheap prices but don't see the quality. I can deliver you a CV joint for a little more than 50 euro and one for 165 and the genuine one for about 250 euro. And I can order you the Ashcroft one. Pick the one you want. If you take the 50 euro one I see you in about 2 weeks. The 165 euro item and the Land Rover item there is not much difference between them. And will last. He one on the last Croatia Trophy he drove when his long time used Aschroft failed on the first day. He doesn't want to sell ell cheapo parts but customers ask him for it so if the customer really wants he does. He showed me the difference between an el cheapo part and a quality part. at the first look the are the same but if you look in detail there are differences and with the CV joint there is a clear difference in weight too. So I went for the 165 euro one.  Roel
1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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3rd Aug 2014 11:45am |
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| lambert.the.farmer Member Since: 11 Apr 2012 Location: harrogate Posts: 2006  
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I believe that you are right in that some front axles are inherently stronger than others and I know mine are meant to be the weakest kind but as the rest of the transmission is standard I have not yet had a problem. As to which are the strongest I'm sure I used to know but I can't for the life of me remember which. One thing I am finding though it really is a good idea to get the best quality your budget will allow, buy right buy once and all that. Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon.
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5th Aug 2014 6:33am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7703 
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this is also my understanding. For anyone running 35s off road with anything other than an open front diff i would recommend Ashcrofts, why risk anything else, those std CVs were never meant to take bigger RD tyres and then we expect them to work through greater than design spec arcs with spacers, larger off sets etc. Cheers James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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5th Aug 2014 7:37am |
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| Mdm Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: Sunny Lancashire Posts: 1536
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What James says
Ashcroft warranty is the best out there that's if you can break one We run tuned td5 in road and off road cars On road std genuine stuff last well if driven sensibly Off road use buy once but the best you can afford and forget about it |
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5th Aug 2014 4:43pm |
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