 | Home > In Car Electronics > Problems wiring my blue sea relay / dual odyssey 1500 batts. |
 
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| airpusher Member Since: 04 Sep 2011 Location: South Wales Posts: 363   
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Mikeh501,
That's brilliant thank you 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver |
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1st Aug 2014 3:46pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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just to throw a big spanner in the works
why fit the extra fuse box in with the batteries why not put it under drivers seat with the other fuse boxes , cant really see the point in raming everything in one box , if you need to remove a battery you got to disconnect everything the drivers side box also has more gommets with spaces for extra wires in the top and sides and room to mount relays etc I would fit the extra battery then run feed over to drivers side box , all the gommets you need are already fitted there is even holes along the bit under the seat box to cable tie the wire run through conduit to fix to take one desent earth out to side of gearbox and connect others to it when I done mine (not on current defender but one I sold ) , I completely separated the two circuits on it , so one battery only done the starter nothing else , aux battery done everything else including all standard wiring and aux items fridge etc , so even if parked with lights left on it would not effect the starting battery at all and when ign on both batteries were linked for charging , I could leave the fridge running and park lights on etc without fear of flat batteries , also had a battery protector that cut power before battery went dead flat and damage it most I see done on still run standard lights etc off the cranking battery , so in effect you could run cranking battery down by leaving lights on and run aux down on leaving fridge on I know with some battery switch you can link both for starting , but not much good if both flat , on mine cranking battery could never be run down ive seen 2 fires start in battery boxes in land rovers , one I was sitting in going along the road !!! ( not mine I might add! ) |
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2nd Aug 2014 5:27pm |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142 
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The reason is that there is different advice for winches given the very variable load they can draw. You end up with a huge fuse which defeats the object. Instead I have an isolator not far from the battery. |
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2nd Aug 2014 8:49pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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think the 500a mega fuse protects the starter cable and the other wiring is protected by pal type fuses in fuse box under the drivers seat
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2nd Aug 2014 9:10pm |
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| Riyo Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 89  
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i think the starter cable was on the battery side of the fuse. ie unprotected but have read this is normal.
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3rd Aug 2014 2:15am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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I will have a look as not 100% ,but cant see them putting a 500a fuse to protect a 200a wire
from l/r work shop manual The battery positive terminal is fitted with a mega fuse, which is a 500 Amp device housed in a black fuse carrier, integral to the battery clamp. Power feed to the BJB is taken from a tap on the battery clamp before the mega fuse. In the event of a crash the mega fuse is designed to blow, this isolates the power from the generator and starter motor, but allows power to be delivered, via the central junction box (CJB), to the rest of the vehicle. |
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3rd Aug 2014 8:31am |
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| airpusher Member Since: 04 Sep 2011 Location: South Wales Posts: 363
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Riyo, that would be appreciated. I'm trying to amass all the bits I need at work.
Hopefully all I'll need to get will be the ACR, distribution box and fuses etc. I'm trying to keep the cost down as much as I can but make a safe install so any hints on the install will be greatly received. Does anybody know the dimensions of the battery try? I'm going to try to fab one at work! Well try is probably hopeful!!! Lol Cheers 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver |
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3rd Aug 2014 7:46pm |
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| Riyo Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 89
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sounds like a good plan, the battery tray is such a basic piece of metal im sure you could make something up yourself, i would if i were to do it again.
 , im waiting on a few bits so it will probably be the weekend before im finished.
I definitely recommend vehicle wiring products for cables/crimps etc too. |
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3rd Aug 2014 9:19pm |
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| Riyo Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 89
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Munch you have got me thinking now about this, i did not pay particular attention to which side of the mega fuse the cables went when i took them off.
I assumed the larger cable was for the main car power (to the prim and sec fuseboxes under the drivers seat and dash) and the smaller cable goes to the starter motor. Maybe it is the other way round and the larger cable is for the starter and the small one for the car fuseboxes. If so maybe the larger cable for the starter motor is protected by the 500A Mega and the smaller cable just goes straight to the car fuseboxes (although i wonder why they are on different sides of the fuse). Any knowledgeable gentlemen can confirm what is actually correct? *edit* just read your post more carefully munch, that clears it up thanks. Although how is the Mega 'designed' to blow in an accident? |
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3rd Aug 2014 9:48pm |
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| Riyo Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 89
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Hi all,
just an update on how my battery installation has gone. Everything is in and working (i think) i painted my dash while it was out also with some Pearlescent Peugeot Diablo Red and Lacquer, i think it looks nice. I also put the cheesy odyssey sticker on there but that might come off, and mounted the split charge system controller switch on there also
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Ok so back to the battery situation, first a wiring diagram to show you what i was aiming for(excuse my MSpaint skills lack): Click image to enlarge and heres some photos of it installed/ during installation Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I changed my mind about using just the 300A fuses and used the original MEGA fuse for the starter motor cable as i figure if land rover put a 500A mega in there a 300A one may not be enough, the mobile centre kit came with 35mm2 and 16mm2 cable, the original land rover earth and positive is 50mm2 so i decided 35mm2 isnt enough and ordered some 60mm2 from vehicle wiring products and used that for the battery earths and positives to the 300A fuses. From the 300A fuses i have used 35mm2 to the relay and pos bus bar and 16mm2 for the fusebox pos/neg connections. I still have an issue getting the battery hold down bar on as the three posts with wing nut tops are impossible to fit into the box with batteries in..im still working on this but any ideas would be appreciated. Im thinking of possibly cutting a bit out of the top lip that is getting in the way but would rather not...even with the third post in i am slightly concerned the batteries can slide sideways.. Last edited by Riyo on 7th Aug 2014 2:22pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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7th Aug 2014 2:07pm |
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| Riyo Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 89
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another thing i am trying to figure out is what is the normal operation of the relay, when i put it in Auto with the engine on after 30s or so the relay kicks in and when i turn off the engine the relay is still engaged, i measure Voltage at the terminals after turning off the engine and it was around 13V
Does anyone know what voltage the relay cuts out at?.,..i assume after a little while the battery voltages will settle back to ~12.8 cutting out the relay but i was expecting it to be almost immediately after shutting off the engine? Thanks Riy |
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7th Aug 2014 2:19pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6676
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You need covers for the positive bus bar and boots for the positive cables, there's a lot of lives exposed there !
Other than that, nice job 
Here is the same kit in our 130 http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15815....;start=105 |
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7th Aug 2014 2:26pm |
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| Riyo Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 89
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Thanks Go Beyond,
I will either buy covers or find a way of covering them in as i am not too comfortable with them being exposed either. trouble is alot of positive connections have 2 wires coming from them, ie the fuses and a standard coiver wont fit over 2 cables..i have got tons of spare single covers but they wont fit. Getting the batteries in was tricky and if i were to do it again i would definitely go on munch's recommendation and move the fusebox to under the drivers seat.. its really not a nice feeling trying to squeeze gear in when you know that a short will put out over 2500A.. eek I tried to minimise the amount of unprotected cabling...its basically just the pos wire from the battery side of the Mega to one of the 300A fuses and the other pos wire from battery 2 to the other 300A fuse that is unprotected. Also theres the issue of cable sizing and i know people do this differently but the idea is to always have a fuse as the weak point if a short were to occur.. some things i have been thinking about.. (leading to me going for larger wire) LD put a 500A MEGA fuse in...therefore 35mm2(240A) seems too little..even the main earth and starter positive cable are 50mm2 rated at 345A - would the fuse blow before the cable overheats in a short? Mobilecentres kit comes with 300A fuses...35mm2 cable rated at 240A...again which would burn first.. 16mm2 cable to fusebox rated at 110A coming off 300A fuse - for sure i imagine the cables going to go before the fuse if they short - im thinking of swapping these 300A fuse for 200A or less. i know theres always going to be some unprotected parts of the wiring but i really dont want to set my car on fire lol also mobilecentres kit comes with standard duty busbars rated at 210A... hence my starter battery earth cable is connected to the same eyelet as the 50mm2 car earth...otherwise it would be a weak link.. again 300A fuses with 210A bus bars... what if Last edited by Riyo on 7th Aug 2014 2:54pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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7th Aug 2014 2:50pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6676
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Yes, we did the same and put the fuse boxes (we have two) on the drivers side running one 70mm2 cable through convoluted conduit from one side to the other
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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7th Aug 2014 2:53pm |
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