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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731   
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Hi folks
I'm about to have a new turbo fitted and want to do everything in my power to stop it working loose (as the old one did several times). Some of these have been given to me but I'm not sure whether to insist the indie should use them... [URL=]  [/URL]
Anyone had experience with these? Cheers Matt Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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19th Jun 2014 4:02pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Could you not lockwire them,or is that what the above is for?
Click image to enlarge Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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19th Jun 2014 5:33pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3615  
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I'm not sure what the standard nut is or what mechanism is used to stop it coming loose but that is a bent beam type nut, it will offer more resistance than a plain nut but there are many other types available, and many types of washers that also offer some resistance to nuts coming loose such as spring washers and conical spring washers. If the studs are long enough then a thin nut locked against the original nut is another good option.
have you a photo of the standard set up? DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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19th Jun 2014 5:53pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Thanks - I've looked into other possibilities before but they all failed. Lockwiring isn't possible because of where the nuts are positioned and the shape of the flange. There's not enough thread for 2 nuts and even the "gold standard" Nord-Lock washers didn't work previously. I think it was partly due to the copper gasket expanding/contracting with heating/cooling (I'll try to avoid using one again).
Cheers Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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19th Jun 2014 6:34pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5425 
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So were you using the Nak gasket?
Andy |
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19th Jun 2014 7:35pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3615
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I like the Unitorque type self locking nuts in tough environments DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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19th Jun 2014 7:40pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Andy - yup, the gasket sealed well initially but then the studs/nuts/bolts kept coming loose. Tried another gasket but same thing happened. Gum - After the NordLock washers failed, my final attempt was stainless locking bolts from the US. They would have been excellent, except one of the three - the inaccessible lower one of course  - sheared off. For some reason the thread jammed inside the exhaust manifold and the bolt wouldn't move in or out. That being said, the leak has been minimal with hardly any whistling - my only problem is that some exhaust gas comes in with the fresh air and the TÜV, who say it's dangerous for the occupants. Anyway, I've now got a different manifold and a new turbo and I'm starting from scratch  Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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19th Jun 2014 10:08pm |
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| v8steve Member Since: 18 Apr 2011 Location: dumfries scotland Posts: 195 
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the lock nuts in the above pic are commenly called binx nuts. also available are all steel lock nuts called stover nuts. these are deformed at one end (actually oval) thus realy grips on the round thread.
sorry the nord locks never worked  110 xs s/wagon
s3 swb soft top |
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19th Jun 2014 10:18pm |
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| big steve Member Since: 24 Dec 2009 Location: hertfordshire Posts: 2456 
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I went down the root of copper gaskets long before the nakanger one and nuts kept falling off I tried all sort ended up going back to standard gasket and a warped turbo machined flat again never had a problem since
But now run the 3.2 any way Steve 2015 2.2 tdci hardtop xs 3.2 conversion DONE 238bhp and 707nm torque and thats just the start ;-P hybrid turbo in build -done ready to fit ashcroft atb in transfer box 6 speed auto in build |
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19th Jun 2014 10:31pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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They were the best solution for a while  Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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20th Jun 2014 6:19am |
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| fatman Member Since: 14 Jan 2014 Location: Athens-Greece Posts: 126  
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Are you sure that the joining faces of manifold and turbo are flat? I also had issues and i thought it was the nuts etc. So i removed the manifold and the turbo and machined them flat,the turbo side was disorted-wrapped a lot,i used new studs and nuts for turbo applications. The most common mistake is replacing one thing at a time,i am now convinced that when someone finds one lose nut on puma turbo manifold,is the start of the saga.. Placing a nakatanenga flange helps but the studs are already "tired"-enlongated,the faces are not flat anymore so tightening the nuts equally is impossible so eventually you'll get an exaust leak again etc.. |
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20th Jun 2014 6:39am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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Fatman has an excellent point. With all the Ford Duratorq units that have been produced it seems unusual the small proportion that seem to suffer prolonged issues with these nuts. Matt you seem to have had more than your fair share. I too would swap out the lot studs included at this juncture. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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20th Jun 2014 7:33am |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Yep, I reckon the turbo manifold warped same as fatman's (I'll find out next Wednesday). I'm partly at fault as I should have had the turbo off after the 3rd "fix" and not tried copper gaskets, lock washers etc. It has been one of my main aggravations over the past 3+ years. Fortunately I had the chance to buy 2 (!) exhaust manifolds (both are perfect) and the new turbo from Pete. I am hoping and praying I never have the problem again... but I was wondering about the nuts just to make really sure. Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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20th Jun 2014 7:54am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Best to stick with the well-proven OEM method rather than a single idea that has been written on the back of a fag packet that may work for one and not another in my view.
It could go horribly wrong and continue to be a time and money pit! If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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20th Jun 2014 10:05am |
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