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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19621

United Kingdom 
Rear body capping protection
Is ACF 50 generally considered the best protection for the rear body cappings to keep corrosion and other issues at bay?
Does a can of it come with application straws on the aerosol cans for precision or is it just a regular can that generally goes all over the place but you wipe off.

Opinions welcome, I get the impression that I ought go do this as very minor discolouration is just appearing under them in places.
Post #336013 5th Jun 2014 7:58pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3615

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
Im happy with ACF50 for this, but others say use wax, ACF50 comes with a straw. 1 negative is it runs down the body for the next couple of weeks a second is that it needs to be reapplied every year DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #336050 5th Jun 2014 9:56pm
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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
Hi Steve. Yeah, ACF 50 is a good option. You need something nice and thin that will 'creep' into the joints and all the little gaps around the rivets. A thin cavity wax such as Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 would also be a good option. ACF 50 aerosols come with a single straw taped to the can. If you cut the end off at a 45 degree angle you can get it into the joint a bit more. Be ready with some kitchen paper to catch the drips - it dribbles down the body sides very quickly! Especially if you use a cavity wax because it sets as the solvents evaporate out. Getting anything in there is going to be better than nothing. The corrosion will already have started sadly, so it's basically a case of slowing it down as much as you can.

Also worth bearing in mind that ACF 50 is an oil essentially, so once that's applied nothing else is going to stick. So if you think you might want to try a cavity wax do that before using ACF 50. You can use ACF after a wax, but not advised the other way around. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
Post #336051 5th Jun 2014 9:59pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19621

United Kingdom 
So a clear wax then ACF 50 would be ideal then. Thumbs Up
Not expensive and will be done this summer I think then.
My ideas of rust proofing is to cover everything that can be where possible. And if nothing needs to gone apart it can be built back together with it, Dinitrol in my case.
The cappings I'm noticing are not the vertical or horizontal really but the triangular sections, it's not rust but very slight discolouration on the edges.
There's very like gap under there and I think the issues is more that it's the thin paint on the edge than from underneath.
Saying all of this it's only noticeable set all if you specifically look for it and with in a foot or two if that.
My 90's 7yrs old this year and kept outside so I font think it's doing doing bad at all so far.

Thank-you for the ideas especially the wax in advance. Wink
Post #336065 5th Jun 2014 10:33pm
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david mitchell



Member Since: 01 Jul 2012
Location: Meath
Posts: 418

Ireland 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
Another vote for acf50 Thumbs Up my landy is 11 years old and no rust, thank god. All down to acf50 and wurth anti corrosion spray Bow down
Post #336086 6th Jun 2014 12:41am
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