 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Corroded rear disc |
 
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| lambert.the.farmer Member Since: 11 Apr 2012 Location: harrogate Posts: 2006   
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I would suggest that you take the disc to an engineering works and get it skimmed rather than a grinder and also do them both as a pair. Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon.
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25th May 2014 2:14pm |
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| barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1411  
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Its your brakes..... the things that stop you and prevent accidents. is it really worth skimping on ???? You can get new discs and pads for under £100 and a new caliper for less than £50 which is probably less than the excess on your insurance ??? Really you already know the answer
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25th May 2014 2:22pm |
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| souster4 Member Since: 11 May 2014 Location: West midlands Posts: 153
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Been as i can get discs and pads £40 for mintex. Looks like that will have to be the way to go. Do you not think new pads with a rebuilt caliper would sort out the corroded disc?
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25th May 2014 2:36pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 
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You can get discs skimmed at engineering shops cheap enough
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25th May 2014 3:21pm |
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| barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1411
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Yes as using the brakes keeps the faces clean. The uneven pad wear suggests caliper is sticking, which means no contact with the face of disc and no cleaning. I appologise if I sounded a bit full on
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25th May 2014 3:50pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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the proper way to skim discs is to cut both sides at once to get them 100% parallel, doing them in a lathe means taking them off chuck and turning to cut other side , yes it can be done but really not as it should be
I have a brake skimming machine that does both sides at once last discs I done were for a Maserati and they were a fortune to buy , all that was wrong with them was a rough spot making brakes judder but nowdays you can get new discs cheap enough to just replace rather than skim for normal cars |
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25th May 2014 3:59pm |
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| souster4 Member Since: 11 May 2014 Location: West midlands Posts: 153
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Thanks for the replies guys appreciate it.
Ive had a look tonight, and although the caliper on the outside is well rusty, the pistons are free and moving as they should. Infact the one that i thought was sticking, appears to be new The pad that doesnt seem to be rubbing the disc correctly, does seem to be sitting lower in the caliper compared to the other pad. Pic to follow |
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25th May 2014 5:15pm |
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| souster4 Member Since: 11 May 2014 Location: West midlands Posts: 153
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25th May 2014 5:17pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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I'm not sure nowadays but they used to stamp the minimum 'thousandths of an inch' the discs could be skimmed down to round the centre circumference. Could it be someone may have done a bodge job and just skimmed a single face previously?
New disc as well would be my opinion.  If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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25th May 2014 6:12pm |
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| souster4 Member Since: 11 May 2014 Location: West midlands Posts: 153
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Wont the same happen to new disks though? If i put new pads and discs on, and the outer pads dont wear the rust off the disc each time, surely the same will occur again?
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25th May 2014 6:27pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Disc, pads and caliper would be my chosen path and at least you're starting off on an even keel. Rule of thumb is what you do to one side you should carry out on the other but I think that is not the way you wish to go. Ultimately it's your choice. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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25th May 2014 6:33pm |
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| souster4 Member Since: 11 May 2014 Location: West midlands Posts: 153
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Ill change the discs and pads then. And rebuild the or both callipers if i have to. Its functioning fine though (pistons aren't seized) so i feel its a waste of time, as well as the pistons being in good condition surprisingly.
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25th May 2014 6:41pm |
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| lambert.the.farmer Member Since: 11 Apr 2012 Location: harrogate Posts: 2006
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The pads sticking may not necessarily be the pistons you will also need to clean the bearing surfaces of the calipers but be careful as too much will allow the pads to either rattle or worse fall through and wear mounting bell of the disc. Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon.
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27th May 2014 7:04am |
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| souster4 Member Since: 11 May 2014 Location: West midlands Posts: 153
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What do you mean by bearing faces of the caliper?
And whats the mounting bell? The pads nearest the road wheels on both rear calipers seem to be falling through the caliper too far. Yet the inside pads are fine, sitting fine in the caliper and wearing in the disc very well. I just found it strange that if the caliper is wearing on the one side (of each caliper), why not in the other? |
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27th May 2014 8:12am |
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