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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5743

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Using a winch solenoid to turn on/off power to a winch
At the mo to power the winch (which also powers the front mounted jump start anderson connector), I turn a knob on the seat box, which is OK. But, I was thinking of using a switch like
http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/electri...-lock.html
to active a winch solenoid to power the winch.
Is this a sound thought? Would I need the same rating winch solenoid as the current winch which is a 12000LBS GoodWinch. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #329946 10th May 2014 5:29pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5422

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Could use

http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?page=sho...;Itemid=14
Or
http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?page=sho...;Itemid=14

But for me one more thing go go wrong. Switch is simple.

Andy
Post #329955 10th May 2014 6:13pm
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
I use a modified windows switch. That only works if you don't have electric windows off-course.



Click image to enlarge


Oops picture from before switch installation. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #329999 10th May 2014 7:24pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
make sure the solenoid you get is Continuously rated on the coil pull in side as some solenoids aren't made to be switched on for long periods and the pull in coils get overheated

a lot of solenoids are only meant for short bursts of use

you need something like a remote battery isolator
Post #330001 10th May 2014 7:30pm
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ex_mod_90



Member Since: 06 Dec 2013
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 9

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Something like this then: http://www.red-winches.com/products/albrig...lenoid/62/

I used one, worked a treat.

Rich.
Post #330339 11th May 2014 7:43pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5743

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers Ex-Mod 90. Sounds like the sort of thing I am after! 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #330349 11th May 2014 8:11pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5422

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
That will be the same as the one in my post then Whistle Whistle
Post #330471 12th May 2014 8:19am
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6676

United Kingdom 
Frowned upon by a lot of clubs as they insist on a 'physical' means of disconnection as above these solenoids can 'stick' on, just as winch solenoids 'stick' on which is why you want a means of disconnection.
Post #330487 12th May 2014 9:47am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
sticking tends to be more on active load solenoids (starter and winch solenoids )
solenoids that connect then the load is put on them don't tend to stick as often

but yes all can stick just some more then others

always use good make and check they have silver contacts , the cheap ones have copper and they arc and stick

the safest are ones that don't rely on a spring pushing the contacts apart
Post #330490 12th May 2014 10:09am
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6676

United Kingdom 
The chances are you'd be fine with a solenoid but, if it were me, I'd keep the physical switch as well.

For my trayback I had a manual switch made by Albright at a cost in excess of £200 Shocked that can handle 500amps x 2 through two separate circuits so that I can isolate the front and rear winches at the same time

I have a spare if anyone is interested

[URL=]
Click image to enlarge
[/URL]

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #330500 12th May 2014 11:18am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
yes that looks a good one , looks like when you push knob down it pushes contacts away and not relying on a spring
Post #330504 12th May 2014 11:26am
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6676

United Kingdom 
Here it is fitted in the FCX trayback

[URL=]
Click image to enlarge
[/URL]

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #330529 12th May 2014 2:53pm
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Waldo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2010
Location: Bit South of Manchester
Posts: 240

United Kingdom 
Sorry to drag this back up,

But does anyone know of a solenoid rated to at least 350Amps continuous?
That's the max draw on my warn.

Looking at the two on the devon site they aren't rated high enough..... Defender 90 XS TD5 (03 Reg)
Post #354157 28th Aug 2014 10:41am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5743

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I'd guess the solenoid on the warn winch would be good enough so could you use one of those? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #354180 28th Aug 2014 12:37pm
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Waldo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2010
Location: Bit South of Manchester
Posts: 240

United Kingdom 
Apologies should have said isolator Banging Head Defender 90 XS TD5 (03 Reg)
Post #354285 28th Aug 2014 9:31pm
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