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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266   
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Personally don't like it there.....in my eyes looks like an after thought.
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11th May 2014 7:40am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266
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Munch90..... can't argue with at of your comments however with it being a sub I suspect / hope location is less critical. in terms of wiring I like a challenge
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11th May 2014 9:13am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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yes sub is non directional
but you ever been to concert and the speakers are facing a wall ! still a sound wave and that needs something to travel though , air not a seat |
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11th May 2014 9:16am |
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| mark_d Member Since: 07 Sep 2013 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 265 
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Concert speakers are full range so that's not a fair analogy. On the other hand look how many home cinema subs are down firing. Loading a sub in this way can allow it to handle more power without reaching it's excursion limits.
I would test both locations to see what sounded best, but I suspect that the under seat location may give better performance in that it is less likely to give localisation. Ideally you want to know the sub is present but not be able to tell where it is. The under seat position will help to attenuate the higher frequencies that exist because of the natural roll off of the speaker and filters. Having the sub on the back of the cubby box would very much draw the ear closest to it. http://defender90xs.blogspot.co.uk/ |
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11th May 2014 10:28am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971  
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It really doesn't matter where you put a sub and which direction you point it. I've put them under stages and under raked seating both to good effect.
The higher frequency sounds are much, much more sensitive to bad placement however. |
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11th May 2014 10:45am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266
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Mark_d.
You took the words right out of my mouth  |
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11th May 2014 11:31am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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One of your subwoofer’s biggest enemies are parallel surfaces
and your going to put one a few inches away ok it will work and sound better but the best I don't personally think so |
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11th May 2014 11:47am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266
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I'll put a couple of shims under one side to make sure it's not parallel
I'm sure you're right but hay ho. Limited to you say it'll still be better than is now. Have a new problem - outside to in! Have cables under drivers seat and was going to run in chassis to rear light cluster and in at that point only cables too short. Without drilling can I get from out to in near o/s mid row seat belt anchor point?  Click image to enlarge |
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11th May 2014 12:55pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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you could take power 12v perm and 12v from under seat that will give you the extra length .
under the seat you could take perm from main feed to fuse box and out of large grommet already there. phono leads are your problem if your running out to engine bay then back under to back then back in again ,has the amp got extra feeds that can work off the speaker wires that way you could wire to left and right rear speaker wires that are already inside leaving only power to sort out . if that blue wire is 12v perm that looks a heavy gauge for what you need . what size fuse is on the unit ( normally only 10 amp ) what's the blue wire connected to under dash |
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11th May 2014 2:37pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266
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Damn and blast.......
Blue cable is pair of pre made phono leads whi h are too short! Today has been a learning exercise (wasn't meant to be). Will get longer phono lead and switched live which will run down engine bay into chassis and then to rear speaker. New fuse box under drivers seat (when fitted) will provide perm power plus power for inverter to rear. All good fun. |
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11th May 2014 9:02pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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ah that's the phono leads ok
sorry to be a pain with different ideas for you ,but only trying to help avoid too much wiring if your running wires up by rear lights you could use a 12v ign feed from there , maybe rear wiper ign feed , the 12v switched feed to amp is normally only really a signal wire as main power is taken from 12v perm feed or that's as it's always been on all the amps I have fitted also if your parked up for long time with radio on which works on first click of ign switch the amp won't be on flattening battery as amp will only be on with second click ( ok amp alone would take along time to flatten battery ) still take main feed from under seat it would save running switch feed from the front I know if your running one wire it's not much to run more with it ,but I like to keep things as short and simple as poss |
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11th May 2014 10:08pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266
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Short and simple.......thats an approach I really should take however I seem to have got into the habit of making things as difficult as possible for myself
But like you say if running one 2 or 3 isn't much more work. You're right to I've kinda deck to run photos along with dedicated switched live, perm plus at least one more perm and without touching existing elecs. As you mentioned before the perm for the sub is fused at 10A Thanks for comments / suggestions all the same. |
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11th May 2014 10:18pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19669
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Cables grommets are your friends, either blind rubber or this type:
On the opposite side of the engine bay to the brake servo there is another entry point too. If you use this no modification should be required. Drilling certainly isn't required! If you trace the re circulating air glow control cable from that side to the entry and exit you'll notice the location I mean. On the right hand side in the engine bay top right near the air intake piping (interior fans intake) you'll notice a white nylon plastic control arm with a cable connected to it. Trace this into the hole it goes to and use this. The cable is like a mechanical brake cable on a bike with a black outer sheath and a stainless braided cable inside. From inside take out the OS speaker and access panel and you should see the entry and exit hole. (Insert dodgy innuendo here)  |
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28th May 2014 5:12pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266
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many thanks Steve,
I think I've pretty much sorted it - kind of. I've got the cable route sorted but unfortunately the flex conduit is now too small for the 8mtr phono lead I have
So once I have the new 15 internal dia conduit it will hopefully be plain sailing to get the phono lead installed using the large grommet next to servo. then its a case of installing the new fuse box and perm feed. plan to stick the fuse brd with sticky tape in driver seat box. may need to drill / grommet one hole so I can get perm feed from battery to drivers seat box? |
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28th May 2014 5:39pm |
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