 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > wheelbearing conversion |
 
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055  |
I regreased my bearings when I did mi brakes,tightened the (new) nut to spec torque, job done,simples,I'd only think about converting if the bearings were knackered. Did an MOT shortly after and the bearings were spot on.
the bearings system was changed before the td5, I think. |
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15th Sep 2013 9:48am |
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| 100inch Member Since: 15 May 2012 Location: Brunswick Posts: 408  
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So did you replace any other parts than the nut?
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15th Sep 2013 10:05am |
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| AndrewS Member Since: 10 Apr 2007 Location: Hereford Posts: 3707  
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I have done this on a few of my previous Pumas, copy the TD5 set up
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15th Sep 2013 10:35am |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
I only replaced the nut,mi bearings were good (also, low mileage,49k),cleaned,re-packed and re-fitted,torque is around 210 nm (if I remember right),mine's an 06, TD5 btw.Not sure why, but it is a popular conversion, maybe I was lucky,dunno. |
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15th Sep 2013 11:10am |
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| the gunner Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: midlands Posts: 11
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 Click image to enlarge td5 wheel bearings are different to tdi they have 1 lock nut & and a spacer I don't know what the puma set up is |
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15th Sep 2013 11:52am |
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| theorangebandit Member Since: 03 Jun 2013 Location: Stowmarket Posts: 862 |
ill will be over hauling just about everything on my puma next year after the winter passes. youll probably find that so long as you pack the bearings properly by actually packing them with grease and then correctly fitting everything then preloading the bearings before torqueing them all will be fine.
many people forget or dont know about preloading bearings , simply you tighten the nut as much as you can then back it right off then tighten with the torque wrench this gives the corrct float for the bearing meaning they can flex and expand with out shattering or doing some crazy stuff and ruining the whole wheel station. is there a how to section on this forum ? ... (looking now ) |
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15th Sep 2013 12:14pm |
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| 100inch Member Since: 15 May 2012 Location: Brunswick Posts: 408
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Were there any changes during the TD5 in the wheelbearing set up?
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16th Sep 2013 8:38am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16980 
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Don't forget that you have two alternative "upgrade" options:-
Option 1) Simply replace the (horrible) later style stake nut with the earlier arrangement of nut/locking (tab) washer/lock nut. For this you will need the late style tab washer (the hole has a "chordoid" flat) rather than the early style (with a rectangular tab). If you opt for this approach, torque the first nut down in the same way as if you're using a stake nut, since it pulls the outer bearing inner member onto the spacer tube. Option 2) Discard the spacer tube, then use the nut/tab washer/nut arrangement as above. In this case you will get fully adjustable bearings, as used on series vehicles etc, but you must set the bearing end float correctly. Under no circumstances should you torque the first nut as you would if the spacer tube was still present, if you do so you will destroy the bearings. Although the stake nut is cheap and nasty and a poor engineering solution (and well worth getting rid of), it is worth bearing (sorry) in mind why the spacer tubes were adopted, In principle it is quite a good idea, and in the majority of cases there is no merit in removing them just for the sake of it. |
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16th Sep 2013 9:30am |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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I know I am in the wrong section but did a search and found this topic.
My 2003 TD5 90 has a little play on all corners. Probably the 35" tyres with 0 ET rims combined with serious off-roading might be a little heavy on the wheel bearings. I have the later tube between the bearing set-up and this makes adjusting for play a little more time consuming so I am thinking off changing to the old style setup. So remove the tube and using the double nut and washer set-up. But my question is: Is the axle stump the same as the old style? Does it have the flat piece on the btm.? Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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20th Mar 2014 11:34am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16980
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Yes, it is the same, although the flat should actually be at the top not the bottom (the WSM states "refit the stub axle with the flat at the 12-o'clock position" or words to that effect).
You will need to remove the spacer tube, and fit the two nuts with the tab washer between them (keep the thrust washer between the inner nut and the outer bearing, of course). Tighten the nuts in the traditional way to set the end float correctly. |
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20th Mar 2014 1:22pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039
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Thanks,
My early 90 and the Camel discovery had the double nut system and I liked that more. I don't remember if the flat piece was on the btm or top. I thought btm but probably I was wrong.  Roel
1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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20th Mar 2014 4:50pm |
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| landybehr Member Since: 17 Apr 2013 Location: -D- Posts: 173 |
I wouldn´t discard the spacer. In my eyes the later system (TD5 on) is an upgrade.
Whenever I have had axles with the TDi (and earlier) system disassembled, there was wear on the stub axle. Uneven wear caused by the inner wheel bearing race which moved on the stub axle. Given that the wheel bearing preload was perfectly set at the factory (?)(!) then that wear shouldn´t have happened in the first place. Lubcrication was no issue on SI-III, RRC vehicles older than the mid-90´s. Most people buy new bearings but keep the stub axle. I think you can try as hard as possible to set the bearing preload right, it will get bad again over a few 10.000 miles. New stub axles were the only solution to the problem AND setting the preload right - in so far that you got away as along as a factory fresh vehicle. The later system adresses the "moving" bearing race. I have converted my RRC (with disco1-Tdi-axle) to the system and am happy. I used the spacer ring/tube AND the two nuts (á la TDi). I´m pretty certain that the TD5/TDci wheel bearing system only got that bad reputation because of a lack of lubrication. I removed the drive members of each wheel and put grease and a few ml´s of gearbox oil into the hub shortly after I received my TDci which was one year old at that time. One of the splines to the drive member were already rusty. And grease behind the plastic cups on the drive members helps to keep water out, maybe. |
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20th Mar 2014 10:29pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039
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The problem off the spacer is that you cannot adjust the bearing play or you have to have a load off spacers off different sizes. Or you have to be very accurate with an angle grinder.
10.000 miles? That's OK for me. My 90 made about 8000 miles since I bought it in 2009. So my choice is for easy adjustment instead off long lasting. I don't mind adjusting once or twice a year as long it is quick and easy. I have to change brake pads a few time per year anyway as they don't like wet sand. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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20th Mar 2014 11:15pm |
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| 100inch Member Since: 15 May 2012 Location: Brunswick Posts: 408
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Did my 110 around xmas time and sticked to the OE set up. Easy as it gets and play was spot on. Guess the conversion is handy once you change bearings. But for a simple regrease I would not bother to change over IMO.
m |
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21st Mar 2014 5:57am |
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