 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma Front Diff Broken |
 
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| psimpson7 Member Since: 20 Nov 2013 Location: Gold Coast, Qld. Posts: 221   
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That's what I have been trying to find out as I have a 2014 90 on order. thanks for the info Blackwolf
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6th Dec 2013 12:29am |
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| dilukabey Member Since: 17 May 2011 Location: Sri Lanka Posts: 173 
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Today I bought the LR D2 diff pinion + axle and case then took out the pinion from the diff axle case (As suggested by peter it was a 2 pin diff). Then had to replace the 4 bolt flange from the broken pinion and job done!
What a difference! No clunk, smooth gear change! No clunk during throttle and clutch release. Now i am planning to prepare for my next project using the left out differential kit/axle to make my trailer. Able to get two pics of the D2 diff and apparently it was from a breaking G4 discovery s from Australia! |
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6th Dec 2013 5:29pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266  
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sorry - I know this is on the forum somewhere but where. how can I check from looking through oil fill hole as to whether I have a 2 or 4 pin variety ?
many thanks, |
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14th May 2015 4:43pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266
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here go.....
 Click image to enlarge Not sure if you can tell from the photo but I'm guessing from your description this is a 4 pin variety? my concern here though is the amount of oil that came out - as though there was more in than I put in 6 - 12 months ago? plus the colour of it - looks like water ingress? strange thing is there's no oil leaks anywhere so I'm guessing if water could get in oil would come out? |
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15th May 2015 9:02am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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the oil may have aerated a bit after being driven making it look like there is too much , also if it was topped up or checked at a different angles
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15th May 2015 9:07am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266
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very good point (aerated - its pretty much on the same spot on the drive where it was filled).
can you tell if it's a 4 pin out of interest? |
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15th May 2015 9:23am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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cant say 100% , if you look in there can you see any small planet or sun gears ( the small gears in the diff carrier )
the grease could have been contaminated with cv grease looking at the colour of it |
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15th May 2015 9:37am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266
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was just about to say that it's prob got CV grease in with oil. guess that seal is shot then as the diff oil has probably only done 6K miles.
I think you can just about make out some wheels but would need to have another look in the day light.  |
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15th May 2015 9:46am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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you need to look over to the left though the hole more
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15th May 2015 9:53am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16954  
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Wayne,
The two-gear diff looks like the one shown in the main picture on this page, actually a Disco 1 diff but it is the same. The four-gear diff looks like the unit shown in the photos right at the botton of this page. If you click on the thumbnails you'll get a larger photo. Once you know what you're looking for, it is possible to see what you have, though you may need to rotate a wheel to be sure. It is not easy to photograph through the hole, and your photo doesn't show enough (or the right areas) to tell. Hope this helps. |
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15th May 2015 10:07am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266
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oh dear would appear for some reason I have the 2 wheel variety then which seems strange as I'm sure all the stuff I hear I've read would have meant having a late 2010 / MY11 model would mean 4 wheel variety.
I base this assumption so far on the basis of the info provided by BW (thanks very much) that the 4 wheel variety is within a machined cylinder. I'm pretty sure mine in within a casting as per the 2 wheel variety  .
so a bit late in the day but do I have any recourse to LR if that is the case? will have another look tonight 
ever get the feeling your def was made up with parts out of the recycle bin? - starting to think it would have been a whole lot cheaper in the long run to have bought an AMG G Wagon. |
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15th May 2015 12:48pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16954
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You probably have one of the last 110s with a 2-gear diff in that case.
The time to worry is when the diff looks like this on the inside:- Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge This had a very disconcerting effect on the steering (you couldn't steer!) and made the last part of my journey home from work rather memorable. |
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15th May 2015 1:30pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266
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let me guess....a bit like the diff lock is on........I seem to recall spending a lot of time looking at the transfer box thinking it was locked up due to the 'rubber band' effect when pulling away off my driver turning right and the occasional feeling of understeer..... hmmm ?
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15th May 2015 1:52pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16954
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Yes, very like that! In fact the first thing I did when I got home was to jack up one wheel and find it didn't rotate, so thought initially that the difflock was stuck engaged. It was only when I jacked up both from wheels and found that they rotated quite happily but in the same direction that I twigged what was really the problem.
If you need to drop the front diff it is of course more involved than the back, but isn't too hard. You need to support the axle on stands so that the front wheels are just clear of the ground. Drain the axle of oil, then disconnect the two steering rods from the n/s swivel assembly, and the single one from the o/s, then put the tie rod somewhere safe. Then you can unbolt the swivel assembly from the axle tube and pull the whole thing (wheel, hub brake assembly, swivel) a couple of inches outward (a shovel under the wheel helps). Make sure that the steering arm on each swivel assembly is supported when you unbolt the assembly from the axle tube, or it will spin round and strain the brake hose. Once both hubs are pulled out, disconnect the propshaft from the pinion flange and tie it up out of the way, then unbolt the pinion housing from the axle tube and remove it (usually made harder by the fact it will have been assembled with far too much RTV sealant). Reassembly is, as they say, a reversal of the dismantling procedure. If you haven't done anything like this before, I would allow a day for the job. |
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15th May 2015 2:06pm |
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