 | Home > Wheels & Tyres > Locking wheel nut - Stuck! |
 
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 6008   
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Thanks Blackwolf. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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23rd Jul 2013 12:51pm |
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| I.AM_a driver Member Since: 11 Jun 2009 Location: Edinburgh, Scotland Posts: 404  
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when I bought my alloys I purchased second hand alloy wheel locking nuts from eBay- bad idea!
I now have a set of Bearmach Locking Nuts, much better design than the LR ones and many more possible combinations.  Click image to enlarge The torque is shared by all of the tongue/grooves around the circumference, much lower chance of breaking it than when it's shared among the three points on a LR one. Of course if someone really wants them all they need to do is hammer on a smaller socket.. Mark S CONVOY for HEROES www.facebook.com/convoy4heroes www.lothian4x4response.org ------ Td5 90 Thread in 'My Defender' Forum |
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23rd Jul 2013 10:02pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 6008
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Cheers IAAD they look much better design than the LR ones. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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23rd Jul 2013 10:44pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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+1 - the simple ideas nearly always are the best. That one looks nearly foolproof  |
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24th Jul 2013 9:35am |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 982
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In my 2008 handbook says 133Nm. Seems a bit high.
I was told that's it's a waste of time putting locking wheel nuts on road wheels. So I've taken mine off, but left the spare with one. Suppose the logic is that if your jam jar is stolen, then you've lost the wheels anyway. Merlin |
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25th Jul 2013 8:59am |
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| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479
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The best locking wheel nuts I reckon are the ones fitted to my focus.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-FORD-FOC...19cb28510f These, they are tight fitting if you ever lost the key it would be a trip to the dealers or welding to get the nut off. |
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1st Aug 2013 11:14pm |
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| gbmud Member Since: 02 Jun 2013 Location: Sussex, UK Posts: 167 
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^^^^
Very similar to the ones fitted to our Freelander2, of which one was already badly damaged by the time we bought it at 14 months - the centre of one nut was missing as if punched through. As you say, they look most inconvenient to remove without the tool - or with a nut so damaged that the tool cannot apply much torque! Chris |
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2nd Aug 2013 1:22pm |
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| ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328
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@sock
Ditch them Thatcham ap rubbish same as current BMW fitment many master kits out there plus they shear |
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2nd Aug 2013 1:33pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 6008
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Came to use the new locking wheel nut tool for the first time and it split!
 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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23rd Aug 2013 7:04pm |
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| Johnnyb0 Member Since: 26 Jun 2013 Location: Ulster Posts: 45
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Hi all, only had my Puma for a couple of months now and decided to check the security /tightness of the wheel nuts. It has SVX alloys fitted. I have a Halfords extendable wheel brace with a 27mm deep drive socket. At least two nuts on each wheel would not budge. Tried a two ft. Breaker bar and same result. It took a 3/4" 1 meter breaker bar with reducer to shift the nuts. No doubt wound on by a monkey with a windy gun at the dealers. I hate to think what I would have done if I had got a puncture? Now all torqued up to the recommended figure. Move easily with the Halfrauds wheel brace.
 Just a wee note of caution if you don't do your own servicing. |
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17th Sep 2013 9:25pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Hope you checked the mating faces of the wheels very carefully. I had a similar issue with a dealer after servicing and found two wheels had actually cracked.
I got the wheels replaced. |
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17th Sep 2013 10:33pm |
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| Shep Member Since: 02 Sep 2013 Location: Pwhelli Posts: 95 
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Are the torque figures with dry threads or lubed?
Mine were all painfully dry when i took them off, i didnt want to lube them with copper slip for obvious reasons, but it would be nice to put something on them? I used a splash of acf50, i expect the wheels to fall off at any time now  A man with no boat is a prisoner |
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17th Sep 2013 11:01pm |
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| Lou Sparts Member Since: 15 Apr 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 1501 
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There has been a debate on here before regarding whether to copper slip wheel bolt threads or not, i have always applied copper slip or similar to my wheel bolts on all makes of car and never had an issue with them.
just my personal opinion. 2005 Td5 90 XS Steve |
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17th Sep 2013 11:09pm |
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| Johnnyb0 Member Since: 26 Jun 2013 Location: Ulster Posts: 45
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Thanks for that Supscat. Actually, no I didn't. The old bulbs ain't what they used to be and I wasn't wearing my specs. I'll remove the wheel nuts again and inspect with a magnifying glass and bright light. Mines still under warranty so it's worth the effort. Love this site. As they say, "every day's a school day". Like to gain from the knowledge and experience of those who have tread the same path.
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17th Sep 2013 11:10pm |
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