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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Springs or dampers?
Hello everyone!

When I first got my defender (1991 110 CSW) it was sat on very soggy saggy springs and some dampers which were entirely for show.

2 years ago I decided to change them for Bearmach blue HD springs with an extra 2" of lift and Pro comp shocks on the recommendation of an independent.

I knew that the ride would be harder and slightly more uncomfortable for the first few hundred miles as they bedded in and relaxed a bit. However, 20k miles later they still make an almighty BANG every time I hit a pot hole. (Living in Kent it is inevitable and unavoidable).

Now, when I load up with a heavy weight ether people or cargo it improves although the tyres (mastercraft courser M/T 265/75/16) seem to flex and move more than the suspension does. The suspension really only ever moves if I am doing any articulation which is fine for off road but on road I’m worried for the tyres and my spine.

Is it worth looking at changing the shock absorbers first for some with a softer bump, in which case does anyone have any recommendations?

or is it worth changing back to stock HD defender springs and shocks but using rubber isolation pads to gain some of the lift back?

Any Suggestions welcome
Post #250016 8th Jul 2013 7:11pm
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foxkilla



Member Since: 01 May 2009
Location: J23 M1
Posts: 156

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Auto Tonga Green
Chuck the hd ones in a skip and go back to standard
Post #250019 8th Jul 2013 7:34pm
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Lou Sparts



Member Since: 15 Apr 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 1501

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Do you need a 2" lift ? even if you do i would go for standard rate/poundage springs to soften the ride and some firmer than standard dampers.

I know what you mean about our roads in kent. 2005 Td5 90 XS

Steve
Post #250021 8th Jul 2013 7:42pm
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Romadog



Member Since: 07 Jul 2011
Location: Powys
Posts: 1747

Ditto
Your original springs were likely worn and therefore should have been replaced with Genuine ones rather than spending your hard earned dosh on stuff in bright colours (this is done for one reason onl -attracting your eye.
Post #250023 8th Jul 2013 7:46pm
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bm52



Member Since: 04 Apr 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 2189

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Havana
Know what you mean about Kent. I use standard springs and Koni Heavy Tracks for an overall good ride. Unless you really need mud tyres I would also suggest an AT tyre for a softer and good overall compromise.

In summary a close to standard set up is usually best IMHO, just get better shocks Thumbs Up BM52
Post #250025 8th Jul 2013 7:50pm
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Lou Sparts



Member Since: 15 Apr 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 1501

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Will probably take the Koni route when my standard ones expire,have had them on road cars before and been happy with them. 2005 Td5 90 XS

Steve
Post #250028 8th Jul 2013 7:58pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

im in a dialemma the standard suspension set up is fantastic cant fault it. the only floor is the wife moans a lot at how stiff the ride is on the road.

no I have been veeeeeeerry tempted to waste huge money on a terrafirma 11" super sport raise kit, for literally no reason at all it would seem. its colourful and loud and very "Mad max" but im putting the idea as far away from thought as I can along side the thought of a full external roll cage. granted the roll cage has more o a purpose as ive seen these things flip and the go flat pack literally! so im swayed toward the idea a lot lately.

any way. standard suspension will probably be all you need and more. in the army we use standard suspension on all the light role rovers and they are brilliant, ( yea we get through bushses and shocks) but that's purely down to the amount of idiot drivers the army allows near off road vehicles.
Post #250032 8th Jul 2013 8:12pm
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Lou Sparts



Member Since: 15 Apr 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 1501

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
My 90 feels nicer on the road when it has a bit of weight in the back i also run a lower tyre pressure on the the rear than stated in the book as it usually runs empty this helps a bit too. 2005 Td5 90 XS

Steve
Post #250036 8th Jul 2013 8:18pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

[quote=" run a lower tyre pressure on the the rear than stated in the book as it usually runs empty this helps a bit too.[/quote]

^^^^^^ this I need to try ^^^^^^
Post #250038 8th Jul 2013 8:23pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
As far as tyres are going, yes in the future I am looking to change to A/T's as off road they are perfect for what I need but on road in the rain they are a bit......terrifying. But at not going to look into that till end of the summer as they still have a meaty amount of tread on them so seems a shame to scrap them too early.

As far as ride height goes I'm not too concerned with keeping it, I certainly don't want to go lower than standard. As I say I'm considering standard springs but with Discovery Rubberised Isolator Cones to give it a bit of Dampening and some added height.

It is in no way meant to be a flashy motor it’s a work vehicle first so I'm not bothered what colour it is I'm more after reliability. The reason I went for a lift in the first case was because I was doing lots of work in a very rocky wood and bottomed out over a rock which took a fancy to my middle pipe and removed it forcibly.

Koni Heavy Tracks look good, I think I will try those first before I start changing too many things.

I'm currently running at 35psi for front and 40psi for rear but even then there is lots of movement in the sidewall before the springs move.
Post #250044 8th Jul 2013 8:34pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

them pressures are very high for off roading I run 26 and 28 PSI front to rear. id say drop them pressures before you buy anything
Post #250047 8th Jul 2013 8:37pm
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Lou Sparts



Member Since: 15 Apr 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 1501

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Regarding tyre pressures the book only gives one tyre pressure now to cover all eventualities it used to state pressures for empty and laden.
But Land Rover don,t want you suing them for millions when you have an "event" running the wrong tyre pressures. 2005 Td5 90 XS

Steve
Post #250049 8th Jul 2013 8:40pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

Lou Sparts wrote:
Regarding tyre pressures the book only gives one tyre pressure now to cover all eventualities it used to state pressures for empty and laden.
But Land Rover don,t want you suing them for millions when you have an "event" running the wrong tyre pressures.


I thought they removed the other pressures because not listing the others saves ink and half a page, therefore money Rolling with laughter
Post #250050 8th Jul 2013 8:42pm
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bm52



Member Since: 04 Apr 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 2189

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Havana
Those tyre pressures are high and will make a big difference to the ride. My 1996 workshop manual say a 110 should be :

INFORMATION 11
TYRE SIZE AND PRESSURES

110 models
Normal - all load conditions 750 R16 Radial ....

Front 1,9 bar / 28 Ibf/in2

Rear 3,3 bar / 48 Ibf/in2

I would personally drop the fron to 28, on my Puma the vehicle handbook says front at 30 and the workshop manuals says 28, even the 2psi drop make a big difference to comfort BM52
Post #250063 8th Jul 2013 9:15pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
I'll have a go at running at lower pressures but as I say the side walls are quite soft as it is. I wouldn't want to run it down to 28psi though as that would be too soft on the sidewall and I don’t want to risk damaging the tyres from under inflation.

As I say currently the tyres are absorbing more of the bumps than the springs and dampers. Logically it makes sense (to me anyway) that the springs and dampers are too hard which is why the tyre is taking the knocks and why it’s so Bangy inside.
Post #250085 8th Jul 2013 9:52pm
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