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| AndyS Member Since: 18 Aug 2012 Location: London Posts: 595   
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Hello,
I jet-washed the underside today and had a squirt around with the WD40 can and I think it's time I tackled the rust that's appearing on my 2011 110, it's nothing major as the car is still young but I don't think I should leave it, best to tackle it now rather than later. My question is not about preventing rust, I'll follow the advice on the Dinitrol thread when it comes to paint it up, it's about what to do with the rust that's currently there. Is it wrong to cover it up with Dinitrol or should I treat it somehow first and if yes, treat it how? Would covered rust remain active? Here's an example of what needs to be tackled: 
All surface rust but rust none-the-less and I don't like seeing it so would like to treat it. The coach builder chap who I spoke to last year said he'd Dinitrol it all and treat the rust but I didn't get the name of the product he mentioned about treatment, any ideas? Lastly, I think I found evidence of Land Rover undercarriage treatment, it's pretty extensive! Is my Defender the only one of it's kind to have Land Rover under seal? 
---------------------------------------------------------------- Edited to change thread title to something more suitable. Last edited by AndyS on 19th Jul 2013 5:03pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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30th Mar 2013 3:43pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4497 
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For what it is worth. I cleaned everything, undercoated it then brush painted it with Dulux gloss.Still shedding water like the proverbial duck's back.The occasional cleaning with soapy water and a paint brush followed by a hosedown brings the chassis back to gleaming again. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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30th Mar 2013 5:15pm |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226 
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Would be worth using a rust converter on anything you can see before dinitrol. If rust is there, it carries on! No matter what you put over the top of it. You can slow it down a lot, but it won't disappear. There are loads of rust converters available, they cause a chemical reaction with the oxidisation and turn it into something stable that won't oxidise. First one I can think of off the top of my head is Hydrate 80 by Bilt Hamber. Not used it myself, but seems well regarded. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
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30th Mar 2013 9:45pm |
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| AndyS Member Since: 18 Aug 2012 Location: London Posts: 595
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Thanks people, most helpful. I popped down to Halfwits today and had a look on the shelf for rust eater and there were a few to choose from, then added the Waxoyl kit (sprayer, pump and refill bottle) and that came to about 80. On the Dinitrol website they have a KIT that has all that and the rust eater for 100 so I think I'll order that.
Hopefully it'll end up all black and rust free. Thanks again, I'll post pictures when it's done (when it's warmer so don't hold your breath). |
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31st Mar 2013 8:10pm |
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| Cakey Member Since: 19 Feb 2013 Location: Cheshire Posts: 468 
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Best thing as rust eater is acf-50
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31st Mar 2013 8:52pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4497
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From Bilt Hamber
http://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-ub http://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-uc http://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-s50 http://www.bilthamber.com/catalogsearch/re...st+Remover 1982 88" 2.25 diesel 1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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31st Mar 2013 8:57pm |
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| yobbie Member Since: 15 Nov 2010 Location: Isle of Wight Posts: 711 
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Or Corrosion Block, that's what we use in marine environment. |
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31st Mar 2013 9:12pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19604
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Please excuse my ignorance but am I correct in thinking ACF 50 is similar to WD-40 only with different properties? Also what is the difference between Waxoyl and Dinitrol?
I know I know I should know this..  Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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31st Mar 2013 9:33pm |
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| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189 
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i was thinking the same so i have just read http://www.acf-50.co.uk/
and bought this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ACF-50-Anti-Corr...589d82fdb4 as soon as it is warmer i will be crawling everywhere under and over the 90. i have used it before years ago on my 300 but the Puma 90 is about to get a complete workover BM52 |
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31st Mar 2013 9:36pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19604
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Thank-you.
 Same for me also it will be done this year when it's guaranteed to be drier (I hope) in a few months time. These wet winters are really not good and of course the salt. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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31st Mar 2013 9:39pm |
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| DRW58 Member Since: 23 Feb 2013 Location: Perthshire Posts: 167  
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Thanks Spudfan, just ordered some of their rust eating stuff.
Respect to AndyS but you really need to see under my defender to see how bad it can get. I suppose it has to start somewhere. New galvanised chassis upgrade next month, going for more or less the full monty, its going to be shinier underneath than it is on top
DRW I built a garage for my Mini With a place for everything and everthing in its place. Ten years down the line there's a Mini in there somewhere, and  all's where it should be!!!! Ho hum |
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31st Mar 2013 9:52pm |
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| AndyS Member Since: 18 Aug 2012 Location: London Posts: 595
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There's a red 110 up the road for sale which is just rust colour underneath, I'm keen to avoid that look and getting it early is the best way, surely. The back of the diff is the worst bit, that'll need wire-brushing. It's pretty crap for a year old car. |
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1st Apr 2013 7:15pm |
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| Sonarmender Member Since: 04 Apr 2013 Location: Guz Posts: 338  
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This isn't cheap but it works a treat and is really easy to apply with no real mess.
Scottoiler 365! A water based anti corrosion fluid. Used it for years on my Yamaha jet ski, which is always used in the sea, ( no corrosion) . Fantastic stuff just apply to all areas of chassis and running gear after jet washing (with the exception of brakes). My local LR dealer are amazed at how clean and rust free my chassis is, i would go as far as saying that it nearly sparkles. Try getting a piece of angle iron, spray it a couple of times with 365 letting it dry between applications and then submerse it in salt water over night .... no rust. Yes my LR is only a year old but the previous one was six and was just as clean and rust free.  You only have one life, live it....forget the cost.
90XS Hardtop |
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4th Apr 2013 11:22pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3615 
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I followed Zags advice with mine and its looking good so far, used dinitrol which to me appeared to be easier to apply than waxoyl that I had used in the past. ACF50 is way better than WD40, WD40 is fish oil, ACF50 is something different. When I got the Landy an old Raliegh bike we have got kicked out of the garage, after a week it was starting to go rusty it had been WD40d extensively during is life, so I tried ACF50 and it still looks as good as the day it was left there its been 2 years now and I only sprayed it once, I now have a tin of ACF50 to use on all outside hinges, latchs and the like and its brilliant, yes its not cheap but it definitely works. Its great for running into the cappings and spraying up into the rear tub top capping DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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5th Apr 2013 6:42am |
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