 | Home > Tdi > M.O.D to Civvy lighting conversion |
 
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| borderterrier Member Since: 09 Dec 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 1677   
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Ah the rotary switch, the joys!!! The switch allows for the side lights to be on without the rear so thats normal, as for trying to convert to a standard setup, I wouldnt bother. Its a lot of work rewiring and re routing cables, adding switches etc. If the rotary switch is working ok it meets the legal requirements for lighting and is quirky to boot! If its
 , try and get hold of a new one. |
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21st Jan 2013 10:52am |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6047 
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It's really not hard at all to convert from the 6 way back to a civvy loom.
in fact, some of the MoD looms had the 3 pin plug already installed for the civilian switch, they just needed a couple of links added. I'll look through the wiring diagram i've got here and post up what needs connecting to what. But it's not a huge deal. Do me a favour.... remove the steering column shroud, and see if there is a 3 pin rubber moulded plug/socket in there (it'll either be "in" the shroud, or tucked up away behind and below the instrument pod. It'll look the opposite of this: 
That way I can tell what you have in place. If this plug isn't there, then you'd be best to try and get hold of an old loom and chop the plug off (I may even have one kicking around, I'll look but can't promise it) if you want to keep it "factory", otherwise just any 3 pin connector of suitable rating will do. |
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22nd Jan 2013 9:37pm |
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| borderterrier Member Since: 09 Dec 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 1677
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Have fun
Steve |
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22nd Jan 2013 10:18pm |
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| ringoosmeg Member Since: 28 Dec 2012 Location: Shropshire Posts: 7 
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Jim,
as far as I can remember, Im not at home for a couple of weeks as I am enroute to Germany and Poland, but I remember seeing a multuplug when i last had the cowell off off to change the indicator stalk last year. Your help is appriciated. Ringo (Simon) 1986 Modified EX MOD 90, NATO Green. 1994 Range Rover Classic LSE, Black. |
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22nd Jan 2013 11:32pm |
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| Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015  
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After working on loads of these I would consider buying a good civilian cab wiring loom. It will take you about 1 day to strip the dash and loom, check the bulkhead/ install sound proofing, re-fit the new loom and put the dash back together.
One of the reasons I say this is because MOD vehicles have people who have no clue about repairing looms when things go wrong- in the end they cause more damage than good. Also, at the same time if it is a 2.5 na with the glass type fuses you can upgrade to the blade fuses for even more reliability. Glyn   |
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23rd Jan 2013 12:46pm |
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| ringoosmeg Member Since: 28 Dec 2012 Location: Shropshire Posts: 7
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Hi all,
Managed to get a day on my 90 today, and fixed the lighting fault, thankfully it wasnt the switch, nor was it the spaghetti of wiring at the back end of the chassis, even though its several previous owners had all sorts of ideas on how wirng looms are made up  !
The fault was actuall at the back of the fuse board, so may well occurr again, if it does I will take it out and fully refurbish it. I also sorted out a new rear tail/stop light and correctly wired it in the right way round, something the previous owner had manged to cock up, and it had been through several MOTs like that! Next job, having been poking round the chassis......i have found a hole in it, for now its a temp plate and repair, but will look at swapping out the chassis for a galvo one in the near future. Anyone know who does a chassis swap at a reasonable rate in the midlands/Chesshire/Staffordshire/Shropshire areas? Cheers Ringo 1986 Modified EX MOD 90, NATO Green.
1994 Range Rover Classic LSE, Black. |
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3rd Mar 2013 10:18pm |
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| Litch Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 760 
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Replacing the MOD lighting arrangement on a 90 is actually a very simple job, I did mine in about an hour as the wires and most of the connections are already there, it is just a case of fitting a civy light-switch on the column and then making a couple of connections behind the rotory switch position. There is certainly no need to butcher the harness or replace it.
Sorry to say that it is now so long ago that I did mine that I can't actually remember the exact wiring arrangement however I do remeber just how simple it was and passing the information out to others at the time who also successfully made the change. All I did was run through the wiring while looking at a civy wiring diagram and saw just what had to be connected through. ONE LIFE, GET IT! |
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10th Mar 2013 11:18pm |
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| Litch Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 760
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Copied in error (damm slow connection!). ONE LIFE, GET IT!
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10th Mar 2013 11:18pm |
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