 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > The Caterham Scale of Frustration |
 
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6264   
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 glad you find it funny!
with a family and full time job(s) it's a struggle to keep on top of the defender. especially now I have to take it in to have the roof sprayed for the second time in as many months......and yes corrosion of the roof is likely a result of me not cross bonding the cathodic protection onto the roof - foolish me (again).  |
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25th Nov 2015 2:11pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6264
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Wasn't too sure where to post this?
Please bear with me on this. So i'll be the first to admit i've not painted in great picture of my mechanical skills but to be honest I do believe I have above average skills in that department (but a westfiled back in the 80's and even if I say so myself it was a mighty fine example and a caterham. Have been doing basic servicing and repairs ever since. Anyhow back to the defender. Contrary to what you all think i'm 99% sure there's still an intermittent fault that's results in rough under powered performance and dreadful gear changes. It seems to be linked to clutch pedal operation that is heavy and creaks? The clutches seems to be lighter and smoother when cold and seemingly the engine seems smoother when the clutch works better ie the engine seems smoother with less injector knock type noise when cold which to my mind is the opposite to what you would expect with a diesel? This isn't all the time but i'm pretty sure now there is a link with cold / clutch / engine running smoothly? Due to get clutch master cylinder replaced soon but just can't see how this could the full fix? Any thoughts / suggestions very welcome. Before you come back and suggest it's me pretty much everything else i've been concerned about has been fixed because there WAS a problem. Almost there with everything but this is proving a bum to find / resolve. |
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21st Dec 2015 6:27pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 
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Can't you give us a break, it's nearly Christmas
 Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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22nd Dec 2015 12:18am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6264
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aha Christmas. hopefully I'll have plenty of spare time to frequent D2.net
speaking to Martin however there's an option for those who'd rather avoid my posts....... 'close your eyes' 
- any thoughts on my previous post? once again this morning drove perfectly and clutch was smooth and no creaking. |
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22nd Dec 2015 8:57am |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1728  
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Hi Caterham
Just had the clutch replaced on mine and did the slave cylinder etc at the same time. As its done over 100k I also did the master at the same time, & for other reasons I replaced the pedal assembly with new take off parts, it made a big difference to operation. I did note that it appears that water ingress into the pivot point is restricted by a snot of silicone that has been painted over each end - perhaps drilling a tiny hole into each of the bearings to allow some lube in may help? As for rough running, I'm convinced its down to the quality of the diesel and there appears to be no good or bad suppliers. Keith |
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22nd Dec 2015 9:41am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6264
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Ickle,
thanks very much for your response. In terms of the diesel I'm inclined to think it has nothing to do with it in this instance as the smoothness of the engine could change numerous times from good to bad on the same tank full. had the clutch, slave cylinder and extension shaft all replaced not so long back. waiting to get the master cylinder done. perhaps I need to look at getting the pedal assembly replaced.
I'll see if I can find anything on here re the pedal assembly and how easy / difficult it is to replace - strange thing is though it comes and goes - generally it's at it's best / smoothest without creaks when cold - defineately worst when hot? thanks again. |
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22nd Dec 2015 9:51am |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 
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^^^ there is thread here about installing a grease nipple in the pedal box. Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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22nd Dec 2015 10:11am |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1728
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Thanks VeeTee - I missed that one - also didn't see the drilling on the replacement.
Is there a point each side or is the shaft hollow and greases both bushes? Cheers Keith |
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22nd Dec 2015 10:17am |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512
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Don't know, haven't don it myself yet because the weather has been a bit wet lately... Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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22nd Dec 2015 10:51am |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1728
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Well been outside for a looksie and as mine is a left hand drive I can only access the right hand side (looking forwards) of the pivot and although the shaft appears to be hollow, there is no internal thread on this side.
The left hand side is virtually inaccessible under the wing & if I somehow managed to fit a nipple, the chance of getting a grease gun on is non existent. I do wonder though if there is a difference between the lhd & rhd pedal assemblies? The 'new' one only had 5 mounting nuts, the old unit had 6, although everything else looked identical & it works well. Keith |
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22nd Dec 2015 1:20pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6264
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would I be right in thinking the pedal assembly can be taken out while leaving everything (master cylinder) in situ ie remove the nut(s) of the threaded actuator rod and the pedal should 'drop' down into the foot well?
I can then remove / refit the but etc and fit grease nipple etc. |
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22nd Dec 2015 2:19pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1728
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No, disconnect the pipe from the master cylinder and the complete assembly lifts out through the engine bay.
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22nd Dec 2015 5:57pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7687 
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try it with the clutch switch off?
try lubricating the pivots/spring to get rid of the groan if its coming from the pedal elongate the pedal to improve leverage it will then be lighter. assembly as ^^ comes out through the engine bay. how does it compare to others... Cheers James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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22nd Dec 2015 6:36pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6264
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Hi. I think all the pumas have sensor on the clutch and yes it does link into the 'brain' / Ecm.
Aha. Not looked at it yet but thought / hoped the pedal would drop down into foot well not up thro engine bay. The stiffness is either th pivo or the master cylinder (hopefully nothing else). Whether whatever is stiff is preventing the senor form seeing the clutch pedal being released and is keeping pressure in the system? Don't know. Never noticed any slip on the clutch so doubt the above? What's the chance of removing the clutch pedal and not needing to bleed system - not got anything for bleeding ie not sure what hoses / connections are req'd. Thanks. |
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22nd Dec 2015 6:44pm |
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