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| dorstsmith2 Member Since: 06 Aug 2012 Location: On the third rock from the sun in dorset Posts: 188   
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corrode faster and that they are best avoided
Electrolytic Corrosion i have add PDF on this problem [img]https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/userpics/13507/Preventing%20Electrolysis.pdf[/img] |
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5th Feb 2013 5:13pm |
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| nakatanenga Member Since: 12 Nov 2010 Location: Neumarkt Posts: 546 
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They don't corrode at all if "Anti Seize Paste" is used properly. Provided with all Nakatanenga SS bolt kits WANTED:
SII or SIII in max 1.5k |
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5th Feb 2013 5:18pm |
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| dorstsmith2 Member Since: 06 Aug 2012 Location: On the third rock from the sun in dorset Posts: 188
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Electrolytic Corrosion (Electrolysis) occurs when
dissimilar metals are in contact in the presence of an electrolyte, such as water (moisture) containing very small amounts of acid. The dissimilar metals set up a galvanic action that results in the deterioration of one of them. The following is a list of the more common commercial metals, sequenced according to what is known as the "Galvanic Series": THE GALVANIC SERIES 1. Aluminum 7. Tin 2. Zinc 8. Lead 3. Steel 9. Brass 4. Iron 10. Copper 5. Nickel 11. Bronze 6. Stainless Steel 400 12. StainlessSteel300 Series Series When any two metals in this list are in contact, with an electrolytic present, the one with the lower number is corroded. The galvanic action increases as the metals are farther apart in the Galvanic Series. It is not always true that there is greater corrosion the further down the scale one goes. In certain cases one metal immediately following another may be very corrosive. One of the most important facts that an architect should know about a metal or an alloy is its reaction with other metals or alloys with which it may be in contact. This data is given in the Galvanic Series. Here the metals are listed in a sequence in which each metal is corroded by all that follow it. In other words, when two different metals are in contact with each other in the presence of moisture, there will be a flow of current from one metal (the "anode") to the other metal (the "cathode"), and one will be eaten away, or disintegrated, while the other (the "cathode") will remain intact. An important point to remember in utilizing the Galvanic Series is that moisture is the chief problem in this type of corrosion, and moisture depends a great deal upon climate. In the desert, electrochemical action will be at a minimum. On the seacoast the action will be much greater, not only because of the ever-present moisture, but also because of the salt. Some means of separating dissimilar metals must therefore always be found. A copper roof should not be applied directly over a wood roof deck fastened with steel nails. Instead, the copper should be separated from the deck by insertion of an asphaltic felt to insulate the copper from attack by the steel nails. Also, aluminum sheets should not rest directly on steel purlins, but should be insulated from the steel with felt strips. In any galvanic combination, the relative areas of the two materials forming the couple have a very important bearing on the extent of the corrosion. Under may conditions the extent of galvanic effect will be directly proportional to the ratio of the area of the metal lower in the list. Thus, if a piece of steel having a surface area of two square inches is coupled to a piece of copper having a surface area of 100 square inches, the galvanic corrosion is roughly 50 times faster than it would be if the same piece of steel were coupled to a piece of copper having a surface area of two square inches. For this reason, it is wise to avoid galvanic couples where the exposed area of the metal lower in the galvanic series is much greater than that of the metal high in this series. As a practical example, it would definitely be dangerous to use a steel rivet to a copper plate, but reasonably safe to use a copper rivet to a steel plate. As far as possible, nails or other fasteners used in securing metal roof coverings should be of the same metal as the roofing. NO. PD493-1 PREVENTING ELECTROLYSIS |
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5th Feb 2013 5:19pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6676
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Welcome to the forum
I have started fitting the Nakatanenga kit supplied by Brendan (a forum sponsor on here) to the FCX 130 The quality is excellent and a big tube of anti seize paste is supplied. Critisisms so far: All bolts / screws are bagged with labels in German which even using Google translate don't make a lot of sense so working out what goes where is a challenge. The new bumper bolts are too short for my winch bumper (but in all fairness would fit a standard bumper no problem) The bolts with rubber ends supplied to replace the ones on the underside of the bonnet are the wrong thread size but I haven't yet reported this to Brendan and I feel sure they will be swapped over no problem. That aside all good |
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5th Feb 2013 5:24pm |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
I have had a set on mine for the past 2 years with no corrosion issues,
 then again all the fixings are coated in Duralac paste. The bolts on the bumper and rear crossmember have come out since fitting, to fit new parts, do repairs etc and the bolts are like new when removed, although they are yellow in colour due to the coating of Duralac, so as far as I can see they are fine to fit and have given me no corrosion issues as they are well covered in Duralac paste before fitting.
http://www.stainlesssteelbalustrade.com/du...tAodan4AKg |
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5th Feb 2013 5:32pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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My dealer has replaced all original bolts with SS ones about 4 years ago when the car was a few months old.... I would be surprised if they have used anti corrosion paste, but sofar I see nowhere any sign of corrosion....
Here is my question. The original bolts are mild steel I guess, so they also must cause the same chemical reaction if they are fitted to aluminum (like door hinges, are they alu or steel?). So being no chemical engineer, it sounds to me that the original bolts which DO rust by themselves anyway, continue to be a worse option than SS replacement, as they not only rust by themselves, but are also of different metal than most of the metal which they are connected with, so will also cause in due time this bi-metal corrosion. Logic, or not? You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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5th Feb 2013 7:00pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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Regular steel is closer to aluminium in the Galvanic series described above, so is less likely to cause galvanic corrosion than unprotected stainless. Not sure what the door hinges are made of though - some sort of cast alloy I suspect. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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5th Feb 2013 7:35pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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That is clear, but what about the other part of my question...
Regular steel bolts once they start rusting, are they a worse match for the other metal in which they are fitted than clean SS bolts in that same metal? You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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5th Feb 2013 7:45pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240
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I don't think that the steel turning rusty makes much difference to galvanic corrosion. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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5th Feb 2013 8:03pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19696
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I think the standard bolts are mild steel but Galvanised. If they were purely mild steel they would be rusted after they first got wet or at least would turn rusty colour.
Simple solution to to this.... Keep the current bolts from new until they get slightly iffy and when you think it's time swap over to SS and fit using the paste that Nakatanenga supply. They would be my top choice if I chose too. Just out of interest with the Nak kit can you buy the parts individually too rather than a kit. So you could buy and fit some at a time rather than the lot. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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5th Feb 2013 8:07pm |
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| Thud Member Since: 21 Jul 2012 Location: London Posts: 667 
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I used the Nak kit too. Lovely quality. I also used plenty of copper slip. The Nak kit is my no means comprehensive. I'm always ordering extras from Stig Fasterners.
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5th Feb 2013 8:49pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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Stig Fasteners is where I ordered mine 4 years ago. Had forgotten the name. Indeed a very comprehensive kit, also came with a tube of anti corrosion paste I remember now. Their kit even included smaller sized screws for the two upper brackets of the soft A-bar. Still very happy with this kit. You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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5th Feb 2013 8:54pm |
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