 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Drowned 90 - Advice Please |
 
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| Lou Sparts Member Since: 15 Apr 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 1501   
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DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER ! Hopefully water has not got as far as the cylinders if it has and you attempt to turn it over this will cause a hydraulic lock and will cause serious internal damage if it has,nt already.
Before attempting to turn it over you need to remove the injectors and glow plugs to allow any moisture to escape without compressing it even then only attempt to turn over with a socket on the crankshaft pulley. I would also remove the turbo and both manifolds to make sure there is no water in them also. You will also have to replace ALL oils and fluids and probably the fuel too as these will most likely be contaminated. Gearboxes and axles should be ok after fresh fluids. I don,t know if your ecu will survive its dunking but i have in the past dismantled ecu,s (not Land Rover) and cleaned them with WD40 and a toothbrush and left them to dry and they have been ok so its worth a try. Hope this is of some help, i,m sure others will be along shortly with more ideas. 2005 Td5 90 XS Steve |
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14th Nov 2013 2:01pm |
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| Splitpin Member Since: 07 May 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 100
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Was it running when it went under?
I would disconnect the battery ASAP |
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14th Nov 2013 2:03pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436  
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 and 
I have an old t-shirt with something as "been-there-done-that" on it 
URGENT: - DO NOT TURN OVER ENGINE in any case. You'll need to take out the injectors and then start so the pistons can push out the water (don't take a gamble it can make the difference between a "strong story in the pub" and a financial disaster. - DISCONNECT BATTERY IMMEDIATELY THEN - drain engine oil. diffs, gearbox etc can wait till you have it home (that will be towing) but will also need to be looked after - Remove all filters - drain fuel tank and put in fresh fuel - empty all what is possible asap and clean it out as best as possible. - Steam clean engine bay to get rid of dirt and avoid contamination in next steps - then disconnect electrical connections and spray them with WD40, contact cleaner, silicone oil - Disconnect ECU (all of them) and hope for the best...  If wet do dry it out over a couple of days in room temps.
- Your best friend for the next month is they guy with a heated garage.. - Interior trim out, seats out etc - I recommend you while things are wet to wash them with a good detergent to avoid stinky interior afterwards. (you'll have to soak them through) - Ribb- height looks as if it will be a good idea to take out the dash also.
- ALL and everything :Rinse, rinse, rinse again and then before rinsing down rinse again (in case of salt water, repeat the rinsing part) -Assemble all, fill all up, connect all up and give it a try. - The spend some hours spraying WD40 and silicone oil on everything that moves, and i mean EVERYTHING. Wished i could say "don't worry defenders are made for it" but unfortunately... Besides the obvious my experience is that ignoring something (or going lightly over it) will bite you after some time. We had a flood in our village 3 years ago and the only advise i gave our neighbors was to sell their flooded car asap. (they left the recovery to their service, which never is deeply enough) They didn't and are now more in-service than on the road. Mostly electrical caused defects. good luck! |
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14th Nov 2013 2:06pm |
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| stevie d Member Since: 09 Nov 2009 Location: Bishops Stortford Posts: 342 
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Have you got insurance cover?
Did this happen on normal roads - if so go through insurance company. If the engine cut itself off - probably hydraulic lock as Lou Sparks said. If that'the case engine almost certainly beyond repair as smashed to pieces internally/ conrods broken as a minimum. If you turned engine off before water got into pistons, engine should be ok. If not insured get the vehicle to a local LR indie for an assessment. Good Luck Steve  Defender 90 TD5 Station Wagon
Discovery 3 HSE BMW 330i Coupe |
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14th Nov 2013 2:13pm |
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| Lou Sparts Member Since: 15 Apr 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 1501
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If the OP has the Land Rover gods on his side the ingress of water into the inlet system will have starved the engine of air and caused it to stall before water got to the cylinders and hopefully avoided a hydraulic lock,BUT the water will still have worked its way right into the engine after it stopped both through the inlet system and up through the exhaust and in to the cylinders through any exhaust valves that were open at the time.
Hence my advice to only turn over by hand after removing the injectors (not the glow plugs as only 4 cylinders have them). 2005 Td5 90 XS Steve |
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14th Nov 2013 2:23pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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Jumps to mind..
don't forget to empty the intercooler before starting i would be the first one to forget it and suck in a bucket of water after all the work is done... |
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14th Nov 2013 2:27pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Use a proper electrical contact cleaner on connections,WD40 and other "lubricant/water dispersers" leave an oily residue which attracts dirt and can cause issues in years to come.If you want to help keep moisture out use proper silicon grease,Servisol is available from Maplins/Ebay/Amazon.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Servisol-Silicone-...B000L97ZPI Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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14th Nov 2013 4:54pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16947 
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You won't damage the motor if you try to turn it over by hand even if it is full of water or hydraulic locked, you simply won't be able to turn it over. However do not apply excessive force and do not under any circumstances use the starter.
If you have drained the whole of the induction side and know beyond doubt that there's no water anywhere in the induction system AND it turns over by hand AND you've changed the oil and fuel then you should be OK to crank. |
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14th Nov 2013 4:59pm |
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| borderterrier Member Since: 09 Dec 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 1677 
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We have a saying the army, 'time spent in recce is time seldom wasted', I learnt the hard way with this putting a 110 2.5 NA up to the bottom of the windscreen. I got the bill for the power pack, but got way with a fine instead! Use a long stick if your unsure of depth to check it. |
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14th Nov 2013 7:33pm |
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| walfy Member Since: 29 Aug 2007 Location: Frome Posts: 2642 
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I agree with the time spent on recce.
That aside, we drowned a 2.5 NA 110 in Bosnia in the early 90's. We were the first Engr Sqn there and didn't have huge resources to back us up. So a wing and a prayer was our saviour. We drowned the 110 in a washed out culvert. Engine was turned off just in time. but the waterline was above the bottom of the windscreen. We pulled it out. Removed injectors and placed them on the dash of the following 110. Then just turned the engine over, using the compression of the pistons to eject the water. Once there was no water coming out and the injectors were dry, all was refitted and we carried on our recce. We were 2 days into a 7 day route recce around Bosnia at the time so we had no option but to carry on. 110 D250 SE HT 110 USW SOLD RRE HSE Dynamic Gone, wife killed it VOLVO XC60 R Dynamic with some toys Polaris RZR 900XP SOLD |
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14th Nov 2013 9:36pm |
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| Norm4n Member Since: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Surrey Posts: 329
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OP mentions flood, if so will be insurance write-off I thought
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14th Nov 2013 9:41pm |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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agree with all the advice above re: how to dry it out and start to sort it.
however.... its insured. the insurance company will write it off. its a guarantee given the engine, electrics and whole interior are effected. So let them write it off, get your big cheque, buy it back from them and then do it up properly. id be thinking complete rebuild while its off the road and you can pay someone to do it properly. |
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15th Nov 2013 9:53am |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438 
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Thanks for all the advice. Really appreciated. Ref. insurance it was on a road albeit a B.O.A.T (Byway Open to All Traffic) so normal road rules apply. Would that wash with them? (words BOAT/Wash in same thread as 'Drowned 90'...dear oh dear
Or did I drive it through a big puddle on the A road? |
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15th Nov 2013 10:06am |
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| JR Member Since: 07 Dec 2012 Location: Auchtermuchty Posts: 532  
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Rather than WD40, which is ok, use electrical connection cleaner as it's a whole lot better at shifting any light corrosion that will be/has started! You can get it from most good motor factors at a reasonable cost.
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15th Nov 2013 11:14am |
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