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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Fitting a, X Defend -Column ignition barrel shield to a Puma
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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

Fitting a, X Defend -Column ignition barrel shield to a Puma
Purchased and received the defend column lock from X eng last week and after some fiddling about with the 10AS transducer coil I have managed to get it fitted without being immobilized by the passive immobilizer. So with that in mind I thought I would do little write up with some pics on how I fitted my one. Thumbs Up


Click image to enlarge


You only need a few tools to carry out this mod, a Phillips screw driver, Mole grips, 3/4 ring spanner, T27, T20 and a T15 Torx screwdriver, I also needed an Allen key to remove the Momo steering wheel and a dremel type tool to alter the ABS cowl.


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So first job was to remove the steering wheel, the binnacle top cover of the dash, the Ipac front dash cover, then the top part of the steering column cowl, this is held in place by 4 x screws.Then I removed the I/C fixing bolts, I left the IPAC connected and just lifted it up clear of the area I would be required to work in.


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The next job was to remove the bottom part of the steering column cowl, this involve 2 x torx screws and one that you can't get too with a screwdriver but is easily removed with a pair of mole grips. Be careful when removing the bottom cowl that it is fed out of the slot for the light switch, don't force it.


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Once the bottom cowl was off it gives you plenty of access to the ignition barrel and you can see the alarms transducer coil. Note the direction of the fitting arrow!


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The transducer coil just slides off, pulling it gently towards you.


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I then offered up the barrel shield for test fitting, I then hand tightened the shear bolt and gave it a light tighten with the spanner.


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Once I was happy about the fitting the next thing to check was that the key would fit in the ignition barrel fully and that the Puma would start.


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I placed the transducer coil in the position as shown in the fitting instructions and knew then that this position would not work with the Pumas steering cowl, but we will get to that later. So to ensure that the Puma would actually run without the passive immobilizer cutting the engine I ran it for 10 mins without the immobilizer cutting the engine. As you probably know the passive immobilizer pings the key fob every 5 mins so if the transducer coil wasn't mounted in a suitable position the Puma would have stopped running after 5 mins or so.


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The problem with the transducer being mounted as it is for the Td5 is the location of the light switch and the moulding for the cowl fixing screws. It just sits up to high to allow the two cowls to be fitted together. I got around this by mounting the coil underneath the column lock so that it sits on top of the bottom cowl and directly underneath the ignition barrel shield. You can just make it out under the shield.


Click image to enlarge


Again I ran the engine for ten minutes without the passive immobilizer cutting the engine. I checked the transducer coils signal with a AD30 Transponder Coil Detector and moved it around the area that the key fob will dangle and it always detected the coil magnetic field.
So now I know that the barrel shield fitted and that the transducer coil would detect the key fob the next job was to alter the bottom cowl to fit around the larger ignition barrel. It is just a case of removing a bit then checking it for fit and repeating until it went on OK. I took my time with this as I did not want to remove too much in one go. Once I was happy with the fit I placed the transducer coil under the ignition barrel ensuring the fitting arrow was pointing upwards, I then put on the blue collar just to check that it hid the alterations I made to the cowl.


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The next job was to alter the top cowl to fit and again I took my time because I wanted a tidy finish,

Before,

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And after altering,

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The ignition side only needed a little fettling around the barrel

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The cowl now fitted well and the material I removed would be hidden from view anyway once the dash covers went back on.


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Once you then place the blue ring on to the barrel and tighten it then pulls the cowls out of alignment slightly,


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Once I was happy with everything I refitted the I/C and dash parts before finally refitting the steering wheel,


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Now the important bit:

I have not sheared the bolt yet incase I get some issues with the transducer placement giving me issues with the immobilizer. I plan to run the Puma for a week or two first and if I get no issues then I will shear the bolt. If I sheared the bolt today and got problems tomorrow then basically I would be F***ed. In the Puma it would be an absolute bitch to remove the shield should an issue arise hence the reason for not doing it just now. Also if anyone follows my instructions above I would advise you to do the same and carry the tools needed to fit this with you incase the transducer needs to be moved elsewhere to get it to work. If that fails then you would have the tools needed to place the ignition barrel back to normal and allow you to get home before working on a new mounting position.

HTH Brian.



**EDIT**


Well that has been a couple of weeks since I fitted the barrel shield and I have had no issues with the immobilizer. So today I stripped it all down again and sheared the bolt. I made sure that the shield stayed tight up against the ignition when tightening as there is not a lot of room for error in that the key sits very close to the shield when in the ignition, I would say a b**ls hair but that would be to much, more of a gnats b**l hair methinks. Thumbs Up If you get this wrong and the bolt shears then basically your f****d, then it would be out with the grinder and a cold chisel to rectify. Evil or Very Mad

Also there is no need to remove the screw above the parcel shelf with mole grips as this is there only to align up the cowl and is not attached to the bottom cowl which comes off over it.


Click image to enlarge


Brian.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green


Last edited by Lorryman100 on 29th Dec 2012 4:39pm. Edited 3 times in total
Post #194037 16th Dec 2012 3:29pm
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Killer90
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Thumbs Up good write up, looks a worth wile mod but a fair bit of work Mr. Green CSK Automotive
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Post #194040 16th Dec 2012 3:41pm
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6676

United Kingdom 
Excellent write up. Well done.

Is the 'chip' that the coil picks up in the remote fob or key ?
Post #194042 16th Dec 2012 3:50pm
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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
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It is in the fob. Thumbs Up
Post #194044 16th Dec 2012 3:56pm
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6676

United Kingdom 
In which case it's unlikely there will be an issue with the transducer coil as LR would have to bear in mind that the fob hangs from a key ring and is constantly 'swinging'. I would presume the range is probably 4" plus
Post #194048 16th Dec 2012 4:02pm
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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

lorryman100 wrote:

I checked the transducer coils signal with a AD30 Transponder Coil Detector and moved it around the area that the key fob will dangle and it always detected the coils magnetic field.


It is a lot more than 4"!

I decided not to shear the bolt just yet, as I know from experience how temperamental the 10AS can be and for the sake of a few test runs carried out over a week or two, makes it worth the wait in my opinion. Thumbs Up
Post #194052 16th Dec 2012 4:10pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Thanks Brian.... Bow down

Exactly what is needed for when I receive mine hopefully Monday/Tuesday.

A clear and concise write up with pictures. Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #194053 16th Dec 2012 4:17pm
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fekete



Member Since: 24 Dec 2008
Location: Here on the other end of the computer
Posts: 3626

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Bonatti Grey
good write up Brian Thumbs Up NEVER TAKE LIFE SERIOUSLY. NOBODY GETS OUT ALIVE ANYWAY
Post #194054 16th Dec 2012 4:17pm
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SGH



Member Since: 27 Sep 2010
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Might not work then with one of dgardel's group buy keys then Question
Post #194057 16th Dec 2012 4:35pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
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Italy 
Great report Brian!!!! Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

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Post #194062 16th Dec 2012 4:53pm
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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

SGH wrote:
Might not work then with one of dgardel's group buy keys then Question


You could always measure the integrated key/fob? My LR key is 45mm from the tip of the key to the start of the plastic handle at the middle, as it is slightly rounded.


Click image to enlarge


Brian.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #194074 16th Dec 2012 5:42pm
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superspoons



Member Since: 16 Apr 2012
Location: Herts
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England 1998 Defender 90 V8 Petrol 50th Auto Atlantis Blue
Brian,

Excellent write-up Thumbs Up

Purchasing mine now for fitting over Christmas. Cheers,
Superspoons
Post #194084 16th Dec 2012 6:24pm
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
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Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
Thanks Brian - feeling more confident now Thumbs Up Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #194109 16th Dec 2012 7:33pm
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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

Well I have just been for a run lasting 40 mins over the roughest roads and tracks with no immobilizer issues. The fact that the Puma started when I first tested the set up was enough really but I advocate testing things thoroughly before saying that is it working. Thumbs Up

As a further precaution I plugged in a diagnostic tool to have a look at the events log in the 10AS and nothing was logged. So all in all it is looking good to mounting the coil under the shield with no apparent drawbacks as of yet. I will keep checking things over the next week or two but I am not expecting any issues. Thumbs Up

I think I will have to take off the top cowl again to see if I can't get the join fitting better at the ignition. Even though I can't see it when driving, the fact I know it is there is really starting to bug me. Rolling Eyes


Brian.
Post #194113 16th Dec 2012 7:42pm
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Glynparry25



Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
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Wales 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green
Cracking write up (as always).

Just as some input. My keys and Fob are separated by a keyring by 15cm. I tend to let the fob hang low and never had a problem in over 3 years- I am sure you won't have any problems with it Thumbs Up

Glyn Dog Sheep
Post #194115 16th Dec 2012 7:46pm
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