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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436   
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Had my starter giving up on me last Friday. (solenoid ok, motor not turning) Of course just after being loaded with hay and still standing on the weigh bridge at the farm.
 Yes of course there were 2 trucks waiting to get their weight taken.
FYI the starter is the same as the ford transits, Fiat Ducato Peugeot Boxer and Citroen something with the 2.2 or 2.4 TDCI / HDI engines. Multiple reference numbers but the RUD500270 seams to be the one known to all. Prices vary from china brand new 62 euro to a very nice 530 euro for an original ford. (after that I was too afraid asking Landrover) Googled some repas video’s and sites to see what repas really means. Parts for the starter can be found, OEM is BOSCH with LR logo. Took the starter out (If you thought removing the EGR was tight then try this, just for fun) Thing worked without problem on my workbench. So back to the net searching a bit more. Clutch dust issues are common on the transits but these have a DMF causing this. No fear, open the thing and look. Full of dust... Now,for some ranting: the alternator has an open vent hole in its body, just as the vans. Thanks for the clever thinking landrover. Then the snorkel equipped '90 corolla starter I saw in one of the video’s looks posh doesn’t it? So people take care with wading and power washing in that area. Anyway, cleaned the interior (nothing fancy and not much you can do wrong) of motor and solenoid with brush, air and liberate amounts of wd40 and then brake cleaner as wel as a finishing spray of contact cleaner. All back together and test wired the starter ran much quiter and at a higher speed. What to risk? Put it back in and now 100+ starts further it still works. I don’t like the fact I couldn’t pinpoint a mistake (besides the dust) but it's working again.  |
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29th Nov 2012 8:04pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1728  
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Thanks for that Tatra, not grovelled and looked specifically at the starter motor but would it be possible to 'clean' in place??
On a couple of occasions recently when its been cold, I've tried to start mine without waiting for the glow plugs (200tdi style) and it gives every symptom of a flat battery. So, is the starter heading west? Or do the glow plugs take such a huge current that there's not enough juice left for the starter? Or do I have a suspect earth?? Cheers Keith |
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29th Nov 2012 8:25pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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Ickle,
Broken starters can be 2 things when turning the key: - nothing, no sound: solenoid broken - clear single click but no movement: solenoid ok, motor broken or stuck When your starter is turning but slowly I would indeed look into connections and earth and solenoid. Why? If it is only a low battery you’ll get multiple clicks from the solenoid a tak-tak-tak sound as battery is not able to deliver enough power. Cleaning without taking it out is not possible. You have to dismantle the starter assembly to get inside. (search youtube, a lot of video’s showing the procedure how to dismantle) Regarding connections and wires / earth. Measure on the big wire that comes to the starter from the battery and the starter body how many volts you have. This should be the same as what you measure between battery plus and minus. If there is a difference (say bigger than 0.5V) you are looking at connections or bad earth. Then measure voltage between the 2 big nuts on the starter when starting, this should be minimal, if bigger than 1V your solenoid contacts are worn out and you’ll need a new solenoid. (separately available from bosch) Best all be done with starter in a vice as on a puma you’ll need small hands and good eyes to get to the starter with the test leads. Procedure to remove the starter in the workshop manual is spot on but I also had to remove the bolt/clamp holding the main + cable to the chassis to be able to take out the starter. So I would - disconnect battery from top: - remove big nut on starter (nr13 + u-joint + 2 long extensions and ratchet) - remove small nut on starter (nr10 + u-joint + 2 long extensions and ratchet) then from underneath the car - remove main +wire clamp (nr 15 bottom, 17 top) - remove fuel line bracket from top stater stud (nr 10 small ratchet + extension and portion of swearing) - remove both studs (nr 13 small ratchet) - wiggle out starter I'm suspecting earth or solenoid contacts from your description. Glowplug current is much lower than what the starter needs. (starter engine is taking +- 55 amps to run without load freespinning in a vice and 350 amps to turn around a hot engine ! if i remember correctly preheating is taking somewhere around 30 amps. Keep us posted!  |
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29th Nov 2012 11:55pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1728
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Hi Tatra,
Last weekend I finally thought I better look at my starter motor. I found it easier to disconnect / remove turbo hoses and some coolant hoses (replaced antifreeze whilst I was at it) to gain access - very tight on a left hand drive with air con! On strip down, the brushes were starting to break up, just worn out I suppose (131000km) , but very little dirt and rubbish in there. Quickest / easiest was a replacement from local motor factors £100 inc Vat and it now spins over very quickly regardless of pre heat. Thanks again Keith |
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10th Sep 2013 10:10pm |
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