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skiboy

Member Since: 14 May 2012
Location: milton keynes
Posts: 21

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green

rattle when cold

my 2010 puma sounds bloody awful when warming up is this normal, seems more apparent as the temp has dropped,
after around 2 miles it disappears as the engine is warm enough, is this just a diesel rattle/knock or something else

it only has 18500 mls on the clock and i only ever put BP ultima in it.

hive mind please respond

28th Nov 2012 8:17pm

AndyS

Member Since: 18 Aug 2012
Location: London
Posts: 595

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black

You should hear how crap they sound on Tesco economy mix. All normal.

28th Nov 2012 8:35pm

rossy

Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Co. Roscommon
Posts: 1296

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey

Ha ! Mines the opposite. Smooth when cold and rattly when warm - especially on a long journey - like metal skeletons dancing in a filing cabinet

28th Nov 2012 9:08pm

skiboy

Member Since: 14 May 2012
Location: milton keynes
Posts: 21

when i change gear it's sounds like when i chuck a spanner in my toolbox at work

28th Nov 2012 9:11pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19620

When was it last serviced? Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧

28th Nov 2012 9:25pm

bvandyk

Member Since: 03 Sep 2012
Location: South Africa
Posts: 49

I had something similar in the winter here.
They reprogrammed / trained the injectors, and all fine again after that. Don't know what causes the injectors to go out though?

29th Nov 2012 12:43pm

HotelCharlie

Member Since: 20 Oct 2011
Location: Kavala, Greece
Posts: 25

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White

Was meaning to ask for a while.
My 2007CSW also has this rattling sound when accelerating past 2000 rpm when cold, through all gears and any speed.
Once reaching normal operating temperature, no more noise!
I know it is coming from the engine, but can't figure out why?
The "stealer" can't find any fault when plugging it in! And with no answers or clues just says "it's normal, it's diesel"!
Problem it only started after 100 000km! so not "normal" to me.
Any ideas?

29th Nov 2012 9:03pm

yobbie

Member Since: 15 Nov 2010
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 711

1999 Defender 90 Td5 Heritage LE Bronze Green

My boss found his 2008 Toyota Hilux was beginning to sound a bit noisy, his best friend runs a garage & he recommended he used quality diesel (not supermarket ) and some 2 stroke oil, after 2 refills its much better.

29th Nov 2012 10:02pm

HotelCharlie

Member Since: 20 Oct 2011
Location: Kavala, Greece
Posts: 25

Been using 2stroke oil for the past 50 000 km, and it does make a difference (smoother running and less noisy).
I was reminded the couple of times I ran out of the product by "Proper manly" diesel noise!
This new rattling noise makes me feel i'm damaging my engine, if i'm "loading" when cold.
Bugs me not to know how to solve it!

29th Nov 2012 10:29pm

bvandyk

Member Since: 03 Sep 2012
Location: South Africa
Posts: 49

HotelCharlie wrote:
Was meaning to ask for a while.
My 2007CSW also has this rattling sound when accelerating past 2000 rpm when cold, through all gears and any speed.
Once reaching normal operating temperature, no more noise!
I know it is coming from the engine, but can't figure out why?
The "stealer" can't find any fault when plugging it in! And with no answers or clues just says "it's normal, it's diesel"!
Problem it only started after 100 000km! so not "normal" to me.
Any ideas?

As said in my previous post, take it to the stealers and let them do "Injector coding". It solved my cold "rattling" "tappet" noise.

But it can be something else:
If you have the fault code: Puma: Fault Code: FUEL RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR IN RANGE BUT HIGH -:P1169
then you need an ECU upgrade. There is a service action out for it: Q068
[img]http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116965&d=1318548773[/img]

30th Nov 2012 6:08am

skiboy

Member Since: 14 May 2012
Location: milton keynes
Posts: 21

er last serviced around 2000 miles ago,

1st Dec 2012 8:13pm

wslr

Member Since: 18 Jul 2010
Location: Wellington, Somerset
Posts: 581

The injector coding is probably just a pilot learn on the injectors with SDD.

1st Dec 2012 10:10pm

rossy

Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Co. Roscommon
Posts: 1296

wslr wrote:
The injector coding is probably just a pilot learn on the injectors with SDD.

If its not too technical an explanation for my simple brain, wslr, what does this mean ?

I posted on this before and did a search as mine always rattles on acelleration. The only time it doesn't is after a week or so of short spins but one long drive and its back again. I was under the impression that the injector timing could be slightly out due to engine build tolerances but I'd love to give the dealer a cogent explanation of what things they ought to be checking or they'll just say 'they all do that'.

Also if it is something to do with injectors would this cause any kind of damage over time ? Sorry too many questions !

1st Dec 2012 11:26pm

Lorryman100

Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15634-15.html

lorryman100 wrote:

That then leaves two issues logged in the EMS. The first is the injector re learn or pilot correction learn, there is a 16 digit hex code printed on each injector. These are the machined tolerances of that particular injector. Machining tools wear with use and the tolerances on an injector are tight so the hex code tells the EMS the particular tolerances for that injector e.g. opening times, shutting times and these injector characteristics vary with fuel rail pressure. The process allows the EMS to learn these injectors, the EMS learns in increments to get the correct values to get the engine firing smoothly. The nanocom is not capable of doing this so you will need a dealer level diagnostic tool to do this properly ie: BBS MSV2, IDS, Omitec, Autologic or Symptom Driven Diagnostic (SDD).

1st Dec 2012 11:42pm

wslr

Member Since: 18 Jul 2010
Location: Wellington, Somerset
Posts: 581

Have you tried a bottle of fuel conditioner in the tank? This not only cleans, but also lubricates and kills off any in-tank bacteria forming from tank moisture and biodiesel.

Something like the Wynns Diesel High Pressure3 - http://www.wynnoil.co.uk/products-wynns-fe...ssure3.htm - if you can get it, but something at least 'Trade' strength. This should have some sort of effect on your vehicle, especially after resetting the injectors. Then just use the two stroke oil every tank fill.

The dealer should also be able to perform a fuel pressure test with their SDD. Basically, the test will start with SDD raising the RPM's and then noting anything which is out of expected as the test continues. It may be worth while trying this just to check SDD is happy with the fuel system.

2nd Dec 2012 1:05am

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