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wyvern



Member Since: 14 Dec 2009
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2070

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red
walfy wrote:
Rather than start a new thread.

I've now sourced a brand new unopened airtop kit with a huge amount of genuine ducting, well enough to plumb my heater into the next car as well Very Happy . And it was at such a price he almost paid me to have Thumbs Up

I'm looking at mounting an airtop under the second row seats now in my 110. How far forward did you fit your unit? Is the end of the unit flush with the front of the seat or set back? Or is it determined by the way the seat folds up and the space required for that?


Mine is mounted under 2nd row L seat .. as was said before .... look our where you need to drill the intake and exhaust as the metalwork on the chassis will determine how far back you can go.
here is a naf pics from my gallery
(its an airtronic but fits the same as a webasco)


Click image to enlarge
Thumbs Up Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html
Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold
Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126
Post #352432 18th Aug 2014 10:36pm
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walfy



Member Since: 29 Aug 2007
Location: Frome
Posts: 2642

 
Looking at his in a bit more detail. I can't fold my rear seats forward anyway so the position of the unit isn't vitally important. It seems that if you have an MSS cubby with the LR amp on the rear you can't fully fold he seats up.. Can't see where I can easily relocate the amp. So will have to live with it as it is.

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
 110 D250 SE HT
110 USW SOLD
RRE HSE Dynamic Gone, wife killed it
VOLVO XC60 R Dynamic with some toys

Polaris RZR 900XP SOLD
Post #352549 19th Aug 2014 5:49pm
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walfy



Member Since: 29 Aug 2007
Location: Frome
Posts: 2642

 
Today was bench test time. Had it fired up after a few issues. Found a bit of info on an ozzy forum about start up procedure that isn't mentioned elsewhere. But we managed it in the end.
Only issue I know have is I have a few spare wires that aren't used and I'm unsure what they are for.
Wires that I have are as follows

RED- This goes to the + feed
BROWN- This goes to the earth
RED/WHITE
GREY
VIOLET
BLACK/RED

The wiring diagram doesn't make sense to me.

If I use the rotary switch from the off position it fires up and produces heat. When I turn the rotary switch to the off position the LED in the centre of the switch goes out and the unit goes through a cool down cycle and then shuts down and stops.

This doesn't help me when I want to start it when I'm in the rooftent. As I can't reach the switch when I'm in bed. But we have a plan for that.

So any Webasto experts out there can help me with the spare wires?? 110 D250 SE HT
110 USW SOLD
RRE HSE Dynamic Gone, wife killed it
VOLVO XC60 R Dynamic with some toys

Polaris RZR 900XP SOLD
Post #352770 20th Aug 2014 8:52pm
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uncas



Member Since: 22 Nov 2012
Location: Wentworth near Rotherham
Posts: 340

United Kingdom 
I've acquired on of these that was previously fitted to a Transit it was removed as the Transit engine threw a leg out of bed and was sent to auction. I know that the heater worked prior to removal. I intend to fit it in my 90 mainly for the dogs as they sleep in the Landy when we are away with the caravan and hopefully will keep them warm on the way home from shoots.I haven't sussed out a suitable place to fit the heater unit yet any suggestions? I plan on using a remote fuel tank under the bonnet.

Uncas
Post #352835 21st Aug 2014 8:27am
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walfy



Member Since: 29 Aug 2007
Location: Frome
Posts: 2642

 
In a 90 I'm not sure on fitment. Why not tap into the main fuel tank. Makes life a lot easier and you won't be filling a fuel tank next to a hot engine. For the work involved I can't see a better way.
I thought about utilising the balance pipe at the bottom of my aux tank but then realised it has less than 5L capacity once the bulk of the fuel is used. So about 5hrs worth. If I go camping for extended periods I'm not sure how long 5L would last me. 110 D250 SE HT
110 USW SOLD
RRE HSE Dynamic Gone, wife killed it
VOLVO XC60 R Dynamic with some toys

Polaris RZR 900XP SOLD
Post #352837 21st Aug 2014 8:52am
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
My Eberspacher, which is an old one grant you, runs off a coolant header tank from a diesel Ford Orion with about 2 1/2l capacity runs for around 18hrs if that's of any help.
Post #352842 21st Aug 2014 9:19am
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walfy



Member Since: 29 Aug 2007
Location: Frome
Posts: 2642

 
Perhaps I have misread then that it needs 1L/hr to run. A bit more reading I reckon


Webasto site says 0.12-0.24KG/Hr.

So how heavy is a 1L of diesel. I know water is 1kg/1L so it cant be far off that I reckon 110 D250 SE HT
110 USW SOLD
RRE HSE Dynamic Gone, wife killed it
VOLVO XC60 R Dynamic with some toys

Polaris RZR 900XP SOLD
Post #352845 21st Aug 2014 9:23am
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6037

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
A liter of 1D diesel weighs 874.61 grams,

a liter of 2D diesel weighs 848.98 grams and a liter of 4D diesel weighs 959.51 grams.

Each grade of diesel has a different density, so the weight of a liter of diesel depends on which grade is under consideration


Another convertor site shows 1 litre as being 850gram, so anything around that mark I'd imagine.
Post #352862 21st Aug 2014 11:09am
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walfy



Member Since: 29 Aug 2007
Location: Frome
Posts: 2642

 
So give or take a litre will last 3hrs then. That makes it a bit more economical. Even better. Just need to start drilling holes in the 110 now. Not looking forward to that bit Big Cry 110 D250 SE HT
110 USW SOLD
RRE HSE Dynamic Gone, wife killed it
VOLVO XC60 R Dynamic with some toys

Polaris RZR 900XP SOLD
Post #352863 21st Aug 2014 11:11am
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wyvern



Member Since: 14 Dec 2009
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2070

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red
I've got the tie in to the main fuel tank filler that works very well and for £20 it was cheaper that finding an extra tank and all the fittings
I was a case of fit and forget - no need to think how much fuel is needed for the heater - just need to look at how much battery power you have though !!

Thumbs Up Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html
Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold
Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126
Post #352954 21st Aug 2014 6:54pm
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walfy



Member Since: 29 Aug 2007
Location: Frome
Posts: 2642

 
I can't have that fitting as the aux tank makes it VERY tight in that area, only options are to use take off from base of aux tank or drop the main tank and fit the tube in there. But that is going to be a pain with the aux tank fitted I reckon as space is at an absolute premium.
Batt power is no issue. Next month sees a split charge system going with a decent second battery. 110 D250 SE HT
110 USW SOLD
RRE HSE Dynamic Gone, wife killed it
VOLVO XC60 R Dynamic with some toys

Polaris RZR 900XP SOLD
Post #352959 21st Aug 2014 7:08pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
With my calculations one litre of diesel runs my Eberspacher around 6 to 7 hours.
Post #352969 21st Aug 2014 7:59pm
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walfy



Member Since: 29 Aug 2007
Location: Frome
Posts: 2642

 
So my calfs are working on an average of 850g/L.

1000/850= 1.177g per ml of diesel.

Working on max usage of 0.24kg/hr

240ml X 1.177 = 282ml

1000ml/ 282 = 3.54.

So I reckon 1L of diesel will last 3.54 hrs.

So in theory if the aux tank has a spare 5L at the bottom. Say 4L with all the sloshing around and fuel entering the main tank I'll get 14hrs + out of he aux tank fuel.

Think that might be the way to go now. Saves dropping the main tank. If I need to in the future then so be it 110 D250 SE HT
110 USW SOLD
RRE HSE Dynamic Gone, wife killed it
VOLVO XC60 R Dynamic with some toys

Polaris RZR 900XP SOLD
Post #352977 21st Aug 2014 8:25pm
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walfy



Member Since: 29 Aug 2007
Location: Frome
Posts: 2642

 
No one have any idea what the spare wires do or can be used for. Just seems strange that I have extra wires. In the book it goes on about ADR application so they may be for that??
I know my kit was originaly purchased to be fitted to a boat. So are the marine systems that different to vehicle systems?
Next step is to ask a grown up. ie find a friendly Webasto dealer and approach them and see if they are willing to help. 110 D250 SE HT
110 USW SOLD
RRE HSE Dynamic Gone, wife killed it
VOLVO XC60 R Dynamic with some toys

Polaris RZR 900XP SOLD
Post #352978 21st Aug 2014 8:31pm
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6037

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
I just spoke to a grown up.... one of the tech chaps at Webasto. very helpful (handy being a vehicle installer.... ahem... Whistle )


Big red & big brown: direct to battery, via on/off switch. turns unit on & off. with the 2 minute boot up and shut down sequence.

Red/white: "vent" mode... makes the fan blow on full speed, but with no heat. so just an air circulation thing, to cool the tent or blow out smelly farts.

Grey & Violet: Used for ADR, so can just be taped up and not used.

Black/red: for either controlling a relay (to power up another fan/dashboard fan etc) or just to a warning lamp to tell you the heater is on (although the carling switch would have a warning light on it anyway)

Simples eh?
Post #353124 22nd Aug 2014 2:08pm
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