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CapeLandy



Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 558

South Africa 
Break Dust
My wife who drives our Puma as her daily is one of those who breaks at the last possible moment.
No matter how I complain - she just doesn't see the point of using the compression of a diesel engine to do the bulk of the slowing down.
Anyways - enough about that - I was noticing a lot more break dust on the front wheel rims as opposed to the rear.
Is the break balance such that the rear do very little that there is very little or no sign of dirt on the rims?
Anyone else have this?
The pictures are at night but the front are definately a lot more "dusty"
Front

Click image to enlarge

Rear

Click image to enlarge
 Puma 110 - gone
Series III 1973 - going strong
Post #10978 17th May 2009 6:08pm
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parktag



Member Since: 30 Sep 2008
Location: Brittany
Posts: 365

France 2008 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Zermatt Silver
It seems quite normal on all cars to me. My other halfs peugeot has black front wheels instead of silver like the back ones because of the way she slows down. My 130 front wheels are not as bad as yours but i dont have many dual carriageways or motorways where i live. 130 crew cab
98 V8 Disco
Post #10979 17th May 2009 6:21pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5026

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
Yes very deliberate on all cars.

Some cars have EBD (electronic brakeforce distribution) like our freelander, which the more weight/towing etc increases the work of the rear brakes Mike
Post #10987 17th May 2009 6:46pm
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CapeLandy



Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 558

South Africa 
thanks chaps - at the price of a new set of pads I am going to have to put a rubber ball under her break pedal. Whistle Puma 110 - gone
Series III 1973 - going strong
Post #10990 17th May 2009 6:49pm
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Grockle



Member Since: 24 Nov 2008
Location: Peak District National Park
Posts: 2266

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
You also get more break dust since they stopped using asbetos in the pad material 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.
Post #11015 18th May 2009 8:19am
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6502

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Front brakes always do more work as the vehicle's weight transfers to the front axle under braking.

There are pads available which are less dusty.
Post #11019 18th May 2009 8:30am
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alantd



Member Since: 14 Dec 2008
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 1513

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
Yup - pretty much always a heavy front-bias.

In fact, my mate used to disconnect the rear brakes on his mini - apparently a common mod on the rally versions to save weight (not recommended on Defenders Smile ) One that started out as a 2.4 TDCi 110 XS
+ New Defender 110 First Edition
Post #11022 18th May 2009 8:48am
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Bundubasher



Member Since: 25 Sep 2008
Location: Sandton
Posts: 34

South Africa 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
The reason why the front brakes brake harder is to prevent the car turning sideways and rolling over during a skid. i.e in an emergency or slippery surface. If the front wheels are skidding and losing traction but the rear wheels have slightly more traction the car should track reasonably straight. As soon as the rear wheels lose traction but the front wheels mantain the traction the rear of the vehicle will start coming around. Try an experment with a toy car. Use sticky putty for example and lock the front wheels. Let the car roll down a board or tray. Try again but his time lock the rear wheels with sticky putty. The car will turn around and go down the slope backwards with the wheels locked.

Regards

Anthony
Post #11023 18th May 2009 8:58am
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Ads90



Member Since: 16 Jun 2008
Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds
Posts: 800

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
This is also demonstrated by the smaller disks & callipers to the rear on your LR...
In fact most small cars still have drums on the rear with discs on the front!

Cure for brake dust - solid steel wheels! Laughing
Post #11026 18th May 2009 10:28am
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Bosun



Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Great Berry
Posts: 141

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
Engine braking is OK for good control off-road, but for on-road braking I think I'd rather replace the pads than the clutch.
Post #11042 18th May 2009 12:50pm
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CapeLandy



Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 558

South Africa 
Bosun wrote:
Engine braking is OK for good control off-road, but for on-road braking I think I'd rather replace the pads than the clutch.


When I meant engine breaking I was referring to staying in the gear that one is in for as long as possible and using the engine compression in that gear until the last moment when you need to press the break and depress the clutch only once to change to 1st for pull off.
I find my wife doesn't tend to plan ahead and see what the traffic is doing and decelerate accordingly instead of slamming on the anchors last minute. Puma 110 - gone
Series III 1973 - going strong
Post #11045 18th May 2009 1:14pm
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Bosun



Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Great Berry
Posts: 141

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
Get a lot of that over here. They're either on the phone, or slapping on the lippy though.
Post #11051 18th May 2009 2:13pm
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