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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7873   
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I like those Keswick's, very nice!
 James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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29th Jan 2018 2:34pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 4990
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 Well the staff have just brought in another which I wasn,t expecting Hey I am not complaining and have been given time to do them before they are needed. I also recognise this last one as I have done it before. They are used quite hard off road so I am doing them more regularly than usual. Vehicles are all kept in tip top condition of course.
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29th Jan 2018 3:41pm |
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| Gatecrasher Member Since: 19 Mar 2016 Location: Surrey Posts: 76 
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Prior to fitting a NAS step what's the best product to I guess spray, inside to prevent rust an corrosion please
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3rd Feb 2018 12:07pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 4990
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Personally I would put on a Dixon & Bate adjustable tow bar after painting it with POR-15! You can treat the rust 100% and it will be done for life, especially with no inner sections. The tow bar is more practical for many also.
If you are determined to use a NAS rear step, before thinking of what to spray inside you have to think how will you treat the outside once the rust starts coming through which will happen in no time like all the LR accessories from roof racks to headlight protectors. Some folks acid dip and galvanise there NAS rear steps whilst others sand blast and powder coat or spray with a rattle can. Your answer for the inside maybe resolved in this process! To answer your question you could try covering the inside with ACF-50 whilst the step is off, leave it a few days to get harder and stickier and/or spray with Dinitrol LT penetrant or ML cavity wax with a 360 degree extension to give an extra coating available from Rejel.com in aerosol form. Putting anything on that is rock hard if you cannot guarantee to have treated the rust 100% will just hide the rust that is eating away underneath and especially inside and is not the way to go IMHO, it would be a hell of a job to get off and re treat, impossible inside of course. Another modern car in with no rust protection! Click image to enlarge |
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4th Feb 2018 9:54pm |
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| Gatecrasher Member Since: 19 Mar 2016 Location: Surrey Posts: 76
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I hear what you say, though NAS step already purchased
 mainly to be used with ball mounted bike carrier, probably on a Dixon and Bate adjustable fitting.
Many thanks Zagato, great advice, funny enough have some ACF to hand, Dinitrol LT aerosol ordered |
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5th Feb 2018 4:48pm |
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| nidge n Member Since: 04 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 714 
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Hi Chris and fellow Defender warriors.
Chris, this post was the very first I read when I purchased my 110 new six years ago. It’s been invaluable, thank you and others that I have contributed. So I’ve just re-read one more time in search of information, sadly I cannot find what I’m looking for hence the post. Whilst not extensive, me and the 110 do frequent the muddy stuff on a regular basis. A hose down follows a trip to the fields but I’m not always convinced I reach or access the areas where mud collects. What are the key areas to the underside of the landy where mud is harbouring? Time to re-seal areas such as the rear rub. Is Sikaflex stillthe product of choice? Finally, and something I missed first time around, Chris on page one you show the windscreen with a suggestion to fill in the corners. I assume you are referring to the gap just beyond the window rubber. Is that a Sikaflex job or other? Thanks again, priceless |
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8th Feb 2018 8:50pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 09 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2260 |
I think you need to seal all of the windscreen frame ........but z is talking about the corners of the door windows where the lr seal allows water to flow past it ........dum dum was thumbed in to stop this ,but as it is no longer available Frost restoration use a similar product by Eastwood ... https://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-flexible-...ement.html
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8th Feb 2018 9:52pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 4990
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Nidge, apologies for the late reply. Thanks for the link Nitram, I hit gold the other day and found an original can of Dum Dum, worth £45 apparently
Arbo Mast windscreen sealing compound is the stuff I use, black, flexible for classics mentioned many times before.
Nidge, careful when sealing floor areas, you can just trap moisture in as these Landies leak! Once the water passes through floor panels from the inside it cannot drip out and can remain trapped between the floor panels and what ever sealant you are using  .
Cleaning a Defender is a whole guide in itself, mentioned breifly earlier in the thread a subject that needs doing properly. You cannot do it by just standing outside, you have to get underneath the vehicle as well but for practical quick washes it helps if you remember to wash in the direction back towards yourself especially behind the wheels. Take a section of the vehicle at a time, look underneath, feel on top and behind the area and look down the ends of areas e.g rear corssmember. The areas where mud generally gets trapped are the areas you cannot see. If the mud has dried you will need to poke it all out first. Despite clients best efforts I have not had one in yet that was not cleaned of all the mud. It takes time. A previous post mentions this and suggestions for various implements to scrape, jiggle, brush and poke the stuff out prior to flushing etc. Pretty pic time, this is a 2014 plate I did from new, lives much of the time on the coast and the rest of the time exploring abroad. Despite all the after market add ons corroding as usual (ACF-50 is your friend for this) the chassis and body have withstood the elements well. It has now had it,s second Dinitrol treatment after four years and will last years, if only people had theirs done as soon as possible like this one, it saves so much that cannot be reversed in time. Click image to enlarge |
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28th Feb 2018 2:20pm |
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| nidge n Member Since: 04 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 714
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Thanks for the help Chris, no simple solution to cleaning the underside then☹️ I always have that nervous feeling that I’ve missed a section. Not easy owning a Land Rover without access to a pit. Thanks again
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28th Feb 2018 8:43pm |
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| JMG Member Since: 16 Apr 2014 Location: Surrey Posts: 222 
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Now that’s what I call a fabulous Defender
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28th Feb 2018 10:09pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 4990
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Picks later of Jez's 162 mile, mint, utility just come out of Bowlers workshop. Jez has not seen it yet, he is picking it up this morning.
 Also a pic later of Jelly Beans unique 2014 plate 90 that he has had completey resprayed in what looks to me like Series II Bronze Green, has air suspension fitted and has been converted to automatic .
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24th Mar 2018 9:35am |
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| CarMan Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 1777
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Chris, I have a question. White painted LR steel Wolf / HD wheels may be as tough-as and are well liked, but corrode too readily. If one had a set refinished would ACF be the way to protect
My 'new' 90 can't wait to come and see you before the Autumn . . . . . . . . . . Rob 1993 200tdi 90 hard-top 1998 300tdi 90 soft-top 2016 2.2 XS 90 hard-top |
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27th Mar 2018 6:32pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 4990
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Hi Carman, will be good to see you
Wolf wheels... Which ones? After market or LR and which colour? From new LR ones corrode around the outer rim, the holes and the deep dished seam. If LR ones it would be a good idea to have them repainted properly, I.e. Primed and painted in a tough coating not LR's thin rubbish. ACF-50 would not remain on a wheel for very long, it is too thin to give such protection and wipes off easily apart from maybe the deep seam and would look unsightly (purple/brown colour on a white wheel) collecting all the muck. If they are corroded already it is tricky to stop the rust in the deep seam as you cannot get anything in the seam to get it back to bare metal (apart from dipping maybe) You see wheels that have been sandblasted and the sand has actually got jammed into the seam and been painted over. A good wheel refurbished could advise. |
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29th Mar 2018 9:02am |
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| CarMan Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 1777
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All noted, thanks. I was referring to genuine Wolfs which looked perfect 9 months ago and have now deteriorated in all the places you mention after few miles of winter perils
It has been suggested elsewhere that hot zinc spraying may be a solution which sounds appealing but will be expensive once painted professionally 
When you ask if OE or aftermarket is there a hint that aftermarket e.g Tuff Torque may fair better, albeit I love(d) my genuine Wolfs Rob
1993 200tdi 90 hard-top 1998 300tdi 90 soft-top 2016 2.2 XS 90 hard-top |
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30th Mar 2018 6:18pm |
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