 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > cappings rust |
 
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069  
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we did a factory visit to see the defenders being built, yes, expect rust from the cappings unless you get to the areas quickly ... where's Zag when you need a full explanation ?
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31st Dec 2011 12:09am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5026 
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 Morning, hangover already! ........ As Steve says, it was confirmed that the underside of the capping's is not painted so a good spray with ACF-50 then Dinitrol will cure and prevent any rot. As per the water ingress manual it would then be a good idea to seal your end capping's with window sealant. Do your rivets at the same time, they can corrode on the inside and around the edges 
Many threads on what to do with your new Defender, under-sealing in particular and strongly suggest you do it before any salt gets to it. Once salt has got to the chassis you can never properly get it off especially from the inside. Enjoy
Copied from another thread... Dinitrol used for the underside nooks and crannies, relevant mechanicals and use the extension nozzle for the chassis insides, rear cross-member, door pillars, bulkhead front and inside, doors, etc, and other sprays, sealants for under ALL the capping's, between the body joins e.g. window and bulkhead seals, main body and sides, sides and roof. Also around the unpainted rivets, front window hinges, bonnet hinges, gutter seams, mirror arms, rear window catches, wiper arm exit points, both water jets, lower ali front panel, steps etc etc and do the interior seat frames/brackets that rust from the outset any nut's bolts you can see and those under the carpets etc and lower seat belt fixing as they can rust within the year! and in and around the bottom rivets holding the lower door seals in place under the rubber etc (not with Waxoyl though it will ripple them out of shape!), headlight rims, and all the external front screws etc etc Oh and door hinges, under the bonnet, cylinders, brackets, electrics, common rail etc etc, avoiding the belt and pulleys! Too much to detail but it's simply a case of going around the vehicle methodically and either using an underbody anti-rust stuff for bit's you won't see e.g. Dinitrol and stuff like Wurth Anti Corrosion Wax & ACF-50 for the bits you do (one remains a wax the other remains greasy!) & a windscreen sealant and a pot of Dum Dum will see you right for everything else. Where to put some Dum Dum, sealants etc are listed in the Water Ingress Manual https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/us...cedure.pdf It's a satisfying job as well Just need to get underneath down and dirty and I suggest you wear a mask and overalls. Window sealant is best done by your local window fitter as it's a messy tricky job You don't have to do any of this of course but you will have water sitting under your window rubbers rotting away unseen, probable leaks and rusting of pretty well everything underneath the body - not a problem if you are not going to keep the vehicle long term of course. The Defender is the only LR in the range that is NOT undersealed for protection! To summarize this kit http://www.rejel.com/rejel-store/list/1/productid/9408.aspx and a couple of cans of this http://www.acf-50.co.uk/acf50.htm and call in your local window fitter to seal your windows will do the job Can be done in day |
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31st Dec 2011 10:27am |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069
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cheers Zag
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31st Dec 2011 10:40am |
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| T1G UP Member Since: 08 Dec 2009 Location: Bath Posts: 3101  
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I had what i thought were rust stains on the side of my 110 after a week
 it was infact sealing wax! so they have changed there preotection program some when late 2011 /12 MY.
I will be re doing those areas in the spring. Did have some pics but running a new laptop and haven't moved all the files over yet. |
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31st Dec 2011 11:25am |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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Excellent advice. The forum really does need a sticky thread regarding inhibiting corrosion. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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31st Dec 2011 12:04pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5026
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Right I'll get onto it MOG
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31st Dec 2011 12:32pm |
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| boxer Member Since: 12 Jun 2011 Location: north yorkshire Posts: 48 
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Thanks for the good advice i got it wax oiled at the dealer before pick up.They have done underside only,as soon as the good weather comes i will be straight at it with ditrol etc.Zag do you mean spray up under the small gap between cap and body work? is the spray pipe fine on the ditrol cans?
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31st Dec 2011 12:50pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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Good man, chop chop! Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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31st Dec 2011 1:51pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5026
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Boxer, yes in the gap, Dinitrol cans and ACF-50 details here "Corrosion Prevention guide"
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467.html |
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31st Dec 2011 3:19pm |
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