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B4Lamb



Member Since: 21 Mar 2015
Location: Abergavenny, Wales
Posts: 233

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Galway Green
Yes please update with the results and improvements in performance or not as the case may be. Not everyone takes time to do this and we are all left hanging!

John. "You are never to old to learn something new"
Post #701413 16th Apr 2018 11:25pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
spudfan wrote:
Been chatting to an independent about changing mine. They have never had a Puma in for this but have done them on Freelanders. He said that they never had to do any "learning" on the Freelanders and all was well. Is it 100% necessary to do a "learning" process on the Puma after a VCV change?


Freelander is a completely different engine, they may well self learn.
Post #701417 16th Apr 2018 11:55pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Also, why would there be a pump learn on diagnostics, if it didn’t need it?
The VCV is the only electrical part on a high pressure pump, other than a temp sensor, there is nothing else to learn,
So nothing else would benefit. Wink 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #701428 17th Apr 2018 6:15am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The ECM will progressively and with time calibrate itself adaptively even if you don't carry out a manual pump recalibration after changing the VCV. However the time that this takes increases with mileage and therefore it may take longer for a high mileage vehicle to reach optimum performance than a low mileage vehicle.

The reason for this strategy (which was explained to me by a senior LR Tech in whom I have a lot of confidence) is to avoid the need to carry out pump and injector learn operations on new vehicles - the vehicle does it itself and, as it runs in, adapts continuously. As the mileage increases the rate at which variables associated with the engine running change slows down, so it is no longer necessary or appropriate for self-calibration to occur at the same rate.

I have on occasions before now changed my VCV and either not recalibrated or more often not successfully recalibrated (some tools are flakey doing this) and the vehicle has always run better after the change anyway and always sorted itself out in due course. It is necessary (if it bothers you) to clear manually the "pump recalibration not completed" stored DTC. It is intersting and supportive of this theory that eventually this DTC will stay cleared even if no manual recalibration is carried out.

It also used to be rumoured that there was a finite number of times that this operation could be carried out before a new ECM was required (the suggestion was that the new calibration settings did not over-write the old, but were stored elsewhere in the unit's ROM), however this seems not to be the case. I have met several vehicle which have had many recalibration cycles carried out, and have neither met not heard of one which has failed to to insufficient free memory. I think therefore that there is no truth in this rumour.
Post #701476 17th Apr 2018 11:08am
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Fabio



Member Since: 05 Aug 2011
Location: Somerset
Posts: 589

Portugal 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Thank you Blackwolf.
I might try and change mine in the summer.
Hopefully it i can do it...

Fabio
Post #701531 17th Apr 2018 5:24pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3993

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Black wolf - thanks for that useful info. While we have your attention can you shed any light on the conditions required to force a pump learn and what should then happen, if anything. I have a Nanocom which has the ability to do a pump learn. Having changed my VCV the car ran ok. I then used the Nanocom, but nothing obviously happened when I pressed the learn “button” and the car drove exactly the same afterwards. I am not convinced anything actually happened, but not sure how I would know. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #701545 17th Apr 2018 6:20pm
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spudfan



Member Since: 10 Sep 2007
Location: Co Donegal
Posts: 4430

Ireland 
Had the VCV done this morning. It was very easy once you removed the manifold. Did'nt fancy tackling this so I went to the independent. Anyway my big fear in removing the manifold was tearing a gasket. No worries here as it is a number of gaskets both in the manifold and in the block. Anyway back to the VCV. No learning and on the 40 mile drive home it was quieter and engine seemed more responsive. I'll update over the next few days.
So if you want to do this yourself, go ahead but remove the manifold. Whole thing takes less than one hour. I was there and assisted and got the lowdown.
Some of the gaskets on the manifold had oil on them. This explains the oil leak that the maindealer insisted was the injector seals. I didn't agree but thought they knew better. They didn't and the oil is being forced out between the manifold and the block. We cleaned the gaskets and refitted everything with new gaskets on order.
With the manifold off I was amazed to see how much crude had built up. Back to the 2 stroke me thinks. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali
2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu
2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai
Post #703323 26th Apr 2018 2:36pm
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o4dn



Member Since: 08 Jan 2010
Location: South West
Posts: 529

France 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
I meant to give it a try, but I can't even manage to unplug the thing! I can't feel my fingers anymore and the plug won't budge! Big Cry

How does that plug on the VCV come off? Pull? Press?

Cheers! “A Land Rover immobilized is a moral defeat for the driver and bad publicity for the vehicle, […] it's up to you to do justice to your Land Rover!” - Land Rover Driving Technique.
--
2009 2.4 Puma Defender 90 SW
1979 Land Rover Series 3 88"
Post #710313 1st Jun 2018 4:37pm
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williamthedog



Member Since: 29 Dec 2012
Location: south wales
Posts: 3441

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Tamar Blue
I find it is easier to unplug the wires when you have removed the bolts that hold the vcv in place. You can then get at the plug easily Thumbs Up
Post #710323 1st Jun 2018 6:55pm
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o4dn



Member Since: 08 Jan 2010
Location: South West
Posts: 529

France 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Cheers, will try that! Thumbs Up “A Land Rover immobilized is a moral defeat for the driver and bad publicity for the vehicle, […] it's up to you to do justice to your Land Rover!” - Land Rover Driving Technique.
--
2009 2.4 Puma Defender 90 SW
1979 Land Rover Series 3 88"
Post #710408 2nd Jun 2018 7:00am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Bit of electronic contact cleaner to get in to the cracks and free up any age old dirt? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #710414 2nd Jun 2018 7:40am
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o4dn



Member Since: 08 Jan 2010
Location: South West
Posts: 529

France 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Quick follow up, job done! Thumbs Up Removing the bolts first did the trick... Thanks! And I concur, it really is a pig of a job!

As for the result, tickover is very stable now, the engine is not hunting anymore and overall it feels smoother. “A Land Rover immobilized is a moral defeat for the driver and bad publicity for the vehicle, […] it's up to you to do justice to your Land Rover!” - Land Rover Driving Technique.
--
2009 2.4 Puma Defender 90 SW
1979 Land Rover Series 3 88"
Post #710688 4th Jun 2018 7:19am
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kirk



Member Since: 08 Dec 2012
Location: Abu Dhabi, UAE
Posts: 28

United Arab Emirates 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Blenheim Silver
Help, Please! Big Cry

With loss of power and symptoms similar to a bad Variable Control Valve, I dove in to change it.

After removing the bolts/valve and replacing the valve and the easiest of the two bolts, I dropped Embarassed the second bolt while trying to seat it into the treads. In my defence, this bolt is so much more difficult to get at. Long story short, the bolt disappeared Evil or Very Mad into the engine compartment. I cant find it.

I went to a local hardware to find a replacement bolt. I purchased a 6mm with an hex/allen head in two lengths in stainless. I also purchased a similar size/length, but in Unified National Coarse (UNC) thread standard.

I will reluctantly remove the one bolt I managed to seat properly to test it against the bolts I purchased at the hardware, but before I fasten the new bolt and for added certainty, I thought I would check with the community...Which bolt size fits?


Here is a photo of the bolts (UNC on left and metric on right) from the hardware store:

Click image to enlarge
Post #734044 10th Oct 2018 2:51pm
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WhathaveIdone!



Member Since: 04 Feb 2016
Location: Sakhalin Island
Posts: 27

Russia 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Tonga Green

Click image to enlarge



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Happened to have one lying around. Thread pitch is 1.0mm.

My recollection is that these bolts were extremely tight to break out. Not sure i would recommend stainless steel replacements as the strength is likely to be significantly less than the standard grade 12.9 fastener and also it is prone to galling.
Post #734442 13th Oct 2018 12:25am
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kirk



Member Since: 08 Dec 2012
Location: Abu Dhabi, UAE
Posts: 28

United Arab Emirates 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Blenheim Silver
Awesome - thank you so much! Another reason to love this board.

Sakhalin Island? Always wanted to see the sakhalin taimen - some day...

thanks again for your help.

Kirk
Post #735477 18th Oct 2018 7:44am
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