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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: Stockport
Posts: 331

United Kingdom 
Replacing front springs TD5

Replacing the rears was easy enough. To replace the front springs do l have to remove the shock and turret? Or can l release the shock at the bottom, push it up, and get the spring out that way?

Post #733928 9th Oct 2018 9:33pm
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pj2106



Member Since: 20 Dec 2012
Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire
Posts: 984

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

You will need to remove shock 2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid)
2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold
1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold

Post #733929 9th Oct 2018 9:37pm
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 1126

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green

Yep. Also buy a new turret secureing mount. They almost always shear Garage Clear Out
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62959.html

Post #733962 10th Oct 2018 6:00am
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Rotherham
Posts: 981

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Caledonian Blue

I would also advise some spring isolators too,
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread

Post #734014 10th Oct 2018 1:41pm
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Rich1968



Member Since: 03 Nov 2013
Location: Towcester
Posts: 34

United Kingdom 

Are the isolators really worthwhile? What make did you fit?

Post #734133 10th Oct 2018 9:56pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5973

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey

The isolators are a very worthwhile addition for very little cost. They won't magically transform your Defender into a Range Rover but every little helps, as the saying goes. D2 isolators are a good upgrade for the front. They incorporate the securing ring into the moulding and so solves two problems at once.

If I was going to the trouble of replacing the front shocks, I'd also replace the turrets with something more substantial and less rot-prone like those from Gwyn Lewis:


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge

Before you get to this stage:


Click image to enlarge
 

MY USW BUILD THREAD

Post #734139 10th Oct 2018 10:08pm
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 1126

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green

Didnt notice a differnce at all on mine. Garage Clear Out
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62959.html

Post #734153 11th Oct 2018 6:02am
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: Stockport
Posts: 331

United Kingdom 

When you changed the springs? I’ve done the rear springs and l’m not sure there’s much difference, but the original springs were heavily rusted wasn’t a bad idea to change them anyway.
I will see how it is after l change the front ones.

I’ll get a set of the spring isolators as suggested above and fit those, although it seems you can’t fit them to the rear of a Defender 110 as it has larger diameter springs (than a Discovery)

Post #734165 11th Oct 2018 8:11am
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 390

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green

Rear spring islolators are the same as a Toyota Tundra. Also OME sells the 110 rear spring isolators. Highly recommend doing this front and rear. Thumbs Up

https://expeditionexchange.com/shop?olsPag...-ome80pr10

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=OME80PR10


Click image to enlarge
 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)

Post #734249 11th Oct 2018 6:50pm
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: Stockport
Posts: 331

United Kingdom 

Thanks for that information

Parts are ordered! Means l have to take out the rear springs again though 😥

Post #734392 12th Oct 2018 5:53pm
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RILEY



Member Since: 01 Feb 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 15

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Stornoway Grey

Not to pee on anyones chips
but spring isolators make Absolutely no difference at all Big Cry one life, sell it

Post #735142 16th Oct 2018 9:25pm
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: Stockport
Posts: 331

United Kingdom 

Then l just wasted £30

Post #735819 20th Oct 2018 12:55am
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 390

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green

Yah... no worries mate, waste of $$$ (Or £££) NOT! Have you heard of bushings? (Pssst... they are made of RUBBER to isolate METAL parts from bashing together and being to harsh a ride). If they don’t work, why does Land Rover have them for Range Rovers and Disco’s? Pay no heed to what he posted. The Defender is simply too costly to build compared to either the RR or Disco hence the metal on metal. Just saying. You have wasted nothing and gained much! Thumbs Up [/b] 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)

Post #735821 20th Oct 2018 1:39am
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: Stockport
Posts: 331

United Kingdom 

I guess it won’t make a big difference but every little helps, biggest ride improvement on mine came from fitting adjustable dampers.

Post #735892 20th Oct 2018 2:15pm
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: Stockport
Posts: 331

United Kingdom 

Well l can confirm that it is possible to replace the springs while leaving the shock and turret in place, although with the gas dampers fitted on my 110 it was less easy.

I had to compress the spring then use a scissor jack to lower the axle some more (due to the anti roll bar resisting) then push the damper fully up using spanners through the spring, and quickly extract the spring before the damper came back down.
I had also removed the turret ring bolts to allow the turret/shock to go a bit higher.

Refitting was the same, compress the spring then push the damper right up and quickly locate the spring in position. I also needed the scissor jack between axle and bump stop rubber to get extra clearance.

Refit the turret before releasing the spring, or you might struggle to locate the turret on to the protruding bolts due to a plastic liner behind preventing it from locating until the last centimetre or so.

Post #736076 21st Oct 2018 7:10pm
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