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diduan



Member Since: 13 Oct 2016
Location: Central Balkan
Posts: 260

Bulgaria 
Immobilizer removal
Hi, is there a simple and effective way to totally remove the immobilizer? I see BAS is offering the removal for £480 which makes me think it is not that easy. Once I was told that changing the ECU regional settings can do the job. Any help appreciated. Thanks! Defender 110 SW MY2011 2.4tdci decat, no EGR
Jeep Wrangler YJ 1990 4.0. Front 78' Dana 60, Rear CUCV 14 bolt
Post #713988 23rd Jun 2018 10:33am
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6026

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
If the 10AS has the same programming as the Td5 version, then you can turn it "off" in the settings (alarm plipper/passive arming etc), but the green box will still be there.

Certainly on Td5's you can do some jiggery pokery in the ECU to enable you to physically remove the 10AS totally, so maybe that's what BAS are offering?
Post #713990 23rd Jun 2018 10:53am
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diduan



Member Since: 13 Oct 2016
Location: Central Balkan
Posts: 260

Bulgaria 
It was already turned off via Nanocom, but it is still there. I don't want to physically remove it, but to completelly disable it, so i can start the vehicle with a simple key without electronics in it. Defender 110 SW MY2011 2.4tdci decat, no EGR
Jeep Wrangler YJ 1990 4.0. Front 78' Dana 60, Rear CUCV 14 bolt
Post #713993 23rd Jun 2018 11:18am
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
If you turn it off then you should be able to start with with just a key and no fob - the keys don't have chips in them, the chip is in the remote fob. Basic models don't come with alarm remotes, just keys, but the box is still there to control the interior lights.

I think the price from BAS is for physical removal of the box.
Post #713996 23rd Jun 2018 11:25am
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M94PUMA



Member Since: 16 Dec 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 88

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
As said previously- Leave It fitted to the vehicle but simply turn it off with a nanocom or other plug in diagnostics that do the 10AS module.
I did the opposite to my Puma. It came with just the blank key and no alarm or immobiliser etc. Got my local LR garage to supply a new fob and turned on the Alarm/ immobiliser.
Post #714135 24th Jun 2018 7:42am
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

wiring mod to add inertia switch on 07 to 2012 puma if the 10as is removed, Leave It fitted to the vehicle have reprogram, also inter light will not work from door switches
Post #714167 24th Jun 2018 11:27am
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HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam
Posts: 669

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Which OBD tools can you use to turn off the immobilizer?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but in disabling the immobilizer via OBD tools and not removing the 10AS, your lights still have that delay thing in turning off and you can still use the FOB to lock and unlock the vehicle, right? The thing just won't leave you stranded in the event of parking in a high electro magnetic interference area, right?
Post #714295 25th Jun 2018 1:50am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
^^^ You are correct, simply turn off the passive immobilizer (which most tools can do) and you will vastly improve the starting reliability of the Puma.
Post #714324 25th Jun 2018 10:45am
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Wont turning off the passive disarm (aka Friendly immobilisation), still mean the vehicle is immobilised when you arm the alarm via the fob? So if your fob packs up you're not going to be able to start the car as I'm not sure the defender supports the EKA method.

If the inductive coil can't detect the fob, then pressing the disarm button on the fob should disarm the immobiliser anyway.

That's how it worked on Rovers, not all of them have the friendly immobilisation coil fitted, they just worked off the buttons.
Post #714327 25th Jun 2018 11:03am
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
M94PUMA wrote:
As said previously- Leave It fitted to the vehicle but simply turn it off with a nanocom or other plug in diagnostics that do the 10AS module.
I did the opposite to my Puma. It came with just the blank key and no alarm or immobiliser etc. Got my local LR garage to supply a new fob and turned on the Alarm/ immobiliser.


Ooh, how did you do that? What did you need? After removing the door cards, I found I have all the kit for the auto locking doors already fitted, but the fob doesn't unlock the door (but does set the alarm Shocked ). Had bought a full kit (servos, fobs, wires etc) on eBay to retro fit, but as the gubbins are already in the door I'm wondering whether I get the 10AS unit running again, or if I can get the door servos to work with the new bleeper module (which also, conveniently, has the key attached like a RR fob). Any thoughts? Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #714340 25th Jun 2018 1:13pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Grenadier, Does your central locking work when you unlock the drivers door with the key?
Post #714343 25th Jun 2018 1:31pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
zsd-puma wrote:
Wont turning off the passive disarm (aka Friendly immobilisation), still mean the vehicle is immobilised when you arm the alarm via the fob? So if your fob packs up you're not going to be able to start the car as I'm not sure the defender supports the EKA method.

If the inductive coil can't detect the fob, then pressing the disarm button on the fob should disarm the immobiliser anyway.

That's how it worked on Rovers, not all of them have the friendly immobilisation coil fitted, they just worked off the buttons.


Yes, lock with the fob and the vehicle will still be immobilised, unlock with fob to remobilise. The advantage is that it does away with all the dialogue between the steering column inductive coil and the key fob during start-up, and this is the area which causes the most problems. It doesn't however address the OP's issue of unlocking and starting in an area where excessive RFI is preventing dialogue between the fob and the windscreen pillar antenna, so may not suit the OP's needs.

The Defender does have an EKA option but it is a pain to use, more so even than the Disco2, and I can't actually remember offhand how you do it. JLR apparently have advised many people that there isn't an EKA method any more, so it may be that this feature was helpfully disabled when the Lucas AS10 was superseded with whatever was used afterwards. It can also be very difficult to find the EKA code unless you can read it from the AS10.

An interesting "feature" of the passive immobiliser on my Defender is that if you unlock the vehicle and get in, turn the key to the heater-plug-on position, and then open the driver's door window whilst waiting for the heater plug light to go out, then the engine will not start. If you don't open the window it starts without problems. If you disable the PI and repeat the procedure, opening the window makes no difference whatsoever and the engine will start.

I discussed this with a dealer and very rapidly formed the impression that (a) they weren't interested, (b) they thought I was completely insane, and (c) they wanted me to go away (so a normal dealer response, really)! The only conclusion I could come to is that RFI from the window lifter, or possibly but less likely voltage drop caused by the window lifter, is preventing the dialogue between the PI coil and the fob from completing successfully and therefore inhibiting remobilisation. It is a weird feature though, and completely repeatable.
Post #714347 25th Jun 2018 2:44pm
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williamthedog



Member Since: 29 Dec 2012
Location: south wales
Posts: 3441

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Tamar Blue
Eka code you have to open and shut door(just operate the courtesy light switch) a certain amount of times. Its a four number code. You can get hold of landrover customer relations and get the code off them. That's how I got mine. Thumbs Up
Post #714350 25th Jun 2018 3:28pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
ahah, I remember on the Rover cars you did something with the key in the drivers door, So many to the right, then so many to the left etc. But it's years since I looked at it.

One drawback of disabling the coil but keeping the alarm is if your fob battery goes flat or the switches in the fob fail then I don't think you'll be able to just open the door with the alarm sounding and start the car to kill the siren.

I'm sure there's another setting where you just disable the security system all together, and the 10AS just becomes a (key operated) central locking and lighting control module - that's what the OP is looking for I think.
Post #714364 25th Jun 2018 5:26pm
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HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam
Posts: 669

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
zsd-puma wrote:
Wont turning off the passive disarm (aka Friendly immobilisation), still mean the vehicle is immobilised when you arm the alarm via the fob? So if your fob packs up you're not going to be able to start the car as I'm not sure the defender supports the EKA method.

If the inductive coil can't detect the fob, then pressing the disarm button on the fob should disarm the immobiliser anyway.

That's how it worked on Rovers, not all of them have the friendly immobilisation coil fitted, they just worked off the buttons.


Well, the thing here is, if you cannot lock the doors with the FOB, you just lock them with the keys. The difference is, when you unlock again with keys, the truck will start up, no problem. Remember to unlock the way you locked the truck.

Right now, if you cannot lock with the FOB, you lock with the key and HOPE that it will start again later when it's time to go. It happens to me every now and then and I've had two instances thus far where we had to push the 110 a few meters away so that he'd start right up.

By disabling the immobilizer, you can forgo all this potential drama. As for the FOB running out of batteries, the truck will warn you about those long before they're dead. If you neglect the warning signs, then it's on you.

Did I get that right, blackwolf? Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. Thumbs Up
Post #714424 26th Jun 2018 2:24am
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