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Timcat



Member Since: 20 Jul 2016
Location: Tanzania at the moment
Posts: 1005

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver
Puma 2.2 Clutchfix
Bought a nice new Clutchfix kit off 4x4 Overlander ( great service) Our 2.2 Puma has done 45k & the clutch has killed its self!
Question is... is it worth changing the transfer shaft bearin & seal while the box is out & is it much of a job??
Post #706942 13th May 2018 6:59pm
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pj2106



Member Since: 20 Dec 2012
Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire
Posts: 1500

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Yes get the kit from Ashcroft! 2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid)
2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold
1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold
Post #706944 13th May 2018 7:03pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2224

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Definitely while it's all apart. Recently had a clutchfux kit fitted to mine and took the opportunity to fit an ashcroft output kit at the same time Thumbs Up
Post #706971 13th May 2018 8:46pm
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7873

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
The Clutchfix is on my list when mine goes next.

I've read mixed views on the Ashcroft transfer shaft (the one that leaks to lubricate). I get the impression the Standard one is fine if well lubricated when installed. Definitely, check it's condition when the clutch is out.

Be interested to hear how you like the Clutchfix. James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers
Post #706979 13th May 2018 9:07pm
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Timcat



Member Since: 20 Jul 2016
Location: Tanzania at the moment
Posts: 1005

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver
How did you find the pedal with the Clutchfix kit Hank? Much stiffer?
Post #706981 13th May 2018 9:09pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2224

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
No difference whatsoever, same as standard to operate. I went for the 'uprated' master cylinder as well, not sure if that makes a difference
Post #707052 14th May 2018 9:54am
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Timcat



Member Since: 20 Jul 2016
Location: Tanzania at the moment
Posts: 1005

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver
Bit of an update, clutch fitted & a happy Puma! Had to adjust the master cylinder arm & bleed it backwards but yes...vast improvement.
Post #708638 22nd May 2018 7:23pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8578

United Kingdom 
Glad you like the clutch and the service. We try to keep them in stock so they can be with a customer within a couple of working days, courier God’s willing.


Brendan
Post #708644 22nd May 2018 7:56pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
JOW240725 wrote:

I've read mixed views on the Ashcroft transfer shaft (the one that leaks to lubricate). I get the impression the Standard one is fine if well lubricated when installed. Definitely, check it's condition when the clutch is out.
.


The Ashcroft shaft is just the standard shaft with a groove eroded into it so it leaks oil, then a collar over it to keep the oil from being lost.

Effectively the Ashcroft kit just ensures the standard shaft is kept well lubricated, you can smother the standard shaft with the Land Rover approved grease as per the official TSB, but they still fail as the grease gradually gets flung out. Some people have had several standard shafts.
Post #708660 22nd May 2018 8:50pm
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Julie



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: Nantes
Posts: 421

France 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
One cannot access the shaft/spline for service.
Some drill even holes in order to access the shaft inside the housing
This is one of the biggest mistakes JLR ever made...
Post #711966 11th Jun 2018 9:50pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2257

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
zsd-puma wrote:
JOW240725 wrote:

I've read mixed views on the Ashcroft transfer shaft (the one that leaks to lubricate). I get the impression the Standard one is fine if well lubricated when installed. Definitely, check it's condition when the clutch is out.
.


The Ashcroft shaft is just the standard shaft with a groove eroded into it so it leaks oil, then a collar over it to keep the oil from being lost.

Effectively the Ashcroft kit just ensures the standard shaft is kept well lubricated, you can smother the standard shaft with the Land Rover approved grease as per the official TSB, but they still fail as the grease gradually gets flung out. Some people have had several standard shafts.


Any idea what spec is the LR grease for this splines?

Thanks Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #712030 12th Jun 2018 12:54pm
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7873

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
I asked this exact question yesterday on FB, but not had a definitive reply.

There are kits available that have everything you need, including "special spline grease" for example https://lofclutches.com/shop/tdci/tdci-out...cba1185463 James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers
Post #712048 12th Jun 2018 2:31pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
IIRC it is Weicon anti-seize paste that JLR specifies, which seems an odd choice. A good quality molybdenum disulphide grease, with the highest moly content you can find, would seem a more logical choice, but one has to assume that JLR knows what it is is doing (although the fact that JLR designed the problem in the first place suggests otherwise)!

Moly grease is generally specified where surfaces rub (litiium where they roll), hence it is used in CV joints, motorcycle shaft drives, etc.
Post #712064 12th Jun 2018 4:13pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2257

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
I´m becoming a bit paranoic about the shaft failing. I have covered 87kkm only though. I have some slack on the transmission but I´m blaming the central diff tufnol shims. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #712463 15th Jun 2018 1:38pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If it is any comfort, the 2007 model year seems generally to have longer-lasting shafts than subsequent years. My '07 at time of writing is on the original shaft, greased at 150k miles and currently at 225k miles.

I realise that it is tempting fate to say this, of course. and by doing so it will probably now fail.
Post #712467 15th Jun 2018 2:52pm
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