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WhathaveIdone!



Member Since: 04 Feb 2016
Location: Sakhalin Island
Posts: 27

Russia 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Tonga Green
Another non-starter
I am looking for help in getting my Puma running again. I had the dash out while doing various bits of work, which includes removing the instrument cluster. As the dash was out for a while, I reinstalled the instrument cluster to be able to run the engine occasionally. Initially there was no issue, however now I am facing a persistent non-start, symptoms as follows:

- Engine will crank over with no sign of it cutting out - also no sign of fuelling/smell/smoke from exhaust.
- No red immobiliser light on IPAC.
- Nanocom and instrument cluster are showing rpm
- No fuel rail pressure indicated on the Nanocom
- MIL light stays on - untested DTCs present U3000, B1A75, B1A81 and U0401.

I have been rooting through the forums and so far have tried:
- disconnecting battery for a while
- using second key set / plip
- disabling plip immobiliser and passive immobliser.
- checking relays in seat box - swapping main and starter relay
- checking all fuses in seat box (including ECU fuse) and under dash
- bypassing the instrument cluster with the immobiliser signal
- Checked ground on front of bulkhead near ECU and nipped it up.
- Checked the AS-10 plugs for signs of corrosion - have not opened up the unit.

Many of the other posts refer to either being unable to crank the car or seeing strange things on the instrument cluster (high temp). I have not had either of these issues.

Any pointers much appreciated!

Jim.
Post #708579 22nd May 2018 12:08pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

Post #708582 22nd May 2018 12:34pm
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WhathaveIdone!



Member Since: 04 Feb 2016
Location: Sakhalin Island
Posts: 27

Russia 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Tonga Green
Still struggling with starting my vehicle - Although to be fair got distracted by other priorities.

I can still crank as long as desired with no sign of cutting out. I have disabled the passive immobiliser. I still have a p1602 fault code.

Would appreciate any views as to whether the symptoms are consistent with an IPAC or mobilisation code fault and possible way forward. I would be keen to try the shunt to bypass the IPAC - if anybody can explain to me how it would be appreciated.

Jim
Post #724351 20th Aug 2018 12:45pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1566

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
U codes are comm codes and the P code you have is for low voltage. Wether you’ve set them unplugging things is the info you need to tell us or do they return always?
Post #724731 22nd Aug 2018 12:13am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19520

United Kingdom 
Have you manually tested your battery voltage? It should typically at rest sit around 12.2v if it's in the low 11v range or below it needs charging.
Is the IPAC plug secured in the socket properly?

I wouldn't get hung up on the fault codes too much, many are common to have which are more nuiscence than a problem.

Have you pressed the fob multiple times in fast succession until the indicators flash and the red IPAC immobiliser light flashes very rapidly for about 20 seconds then slows to normal speed.

When you do get it running check battery charging voltage, it should be around the 14.2v region approximately possibly slightly under.

There was a post here recently regarding an IPAC's PCB solder track failiure, however I'd investigate this last. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #724734 22nd Aug 2018 12:30am
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WhathaveIdone!



Member Since: 04 Feb 2016
Location: Sakhalin Island
Posts: 27

Russia 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Tonga Green
I dont think I have a voltage problem - I have a dual battery setup and am cranking without issue. I also did a full recharge after my initial attempts to solve the issue.
The original communications DTCs have all been cleared - the only persistent code is p1602. I have not seen any indication from the IPAC that there is a problem (like the temp gauge going high.
Am beginning to suspect the fuel system - potentially VCV (which I guess is the fuel suction control valve referred to in the manual).
Thanks for the help!
Jim.
Post #724736 22nd Aug 2018 12:45am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3995

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Camshaft position sensor failure will result in the car turning over on the key but not starting. It doesn’t throw a fault code. Could it be that? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #724750 22nd Aug 2018 8:47am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16856

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I think at this stage I would be looking for evidence of fuel at the fuel rail, and evidence that the injectors are trying to fire.

You say that nanocom shows zero fuel rail pressure - if this is a genuine reading then it does suggest that there is a fuel delivery problem, either no fuel reaching the pump, the pump has failed, or the VCV is blocked or defective.

If there is fuel then I'd be trying to establish that the injectors are attempting to fire.

If either the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor have failed or are disconnected, the engine will not fire (because it doesn't know when it should) so these are worth checking too.

The TDCi is a complete dog when it fails to start because there is generally so little to go on, it can be hugely frustrating!
Post #724751 22nd Aug 2018 8:48am
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WhathaveIdone!



Member Since: 04 Feb 2016
Location: Sakhalin Island
Posts: 27

Russia 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Tonga Green
Would agree with the frustrating part, but I guess I am learning something as I go along.
Anyway, plan of attack is:
- checking camshaft and crankshaft position sensors
- checks on the filter and fuel delivery system
- changing the VCV (as I had a few instances of power loss and already suspected it needed a change).
Might also try and figure out how to hook up my oscilloscope to the injectors without frying anything so that I can check for signal.
Thanks again!
Jim
Post #724767 22nd Aug 2018 10:24am
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WhathaveIdone!



Member Since: 04 Feb 2016
Location: Sakhalin Island
Posts: 27

Russia 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Tonga Green
Spent the evening looking at the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors.
The crankshaft position sensor looked cosmetically scruffy with potentially a small crack in the casing, but whazzing a bit of metal past it on a drill gave a nice oscilloscope trace, so seems to be working.
Spent a while Censored about to try and get the camshaft position sensor to work as I believe it should. Could not get the signal voltage to move at all. Have come to the conclusion it may well be knackered.
Will see if I can find a new one locally - there's not too many defenders over here, but quite a few transits knocking about.
Fingers crossed!
Jim.
Post #725026 23rd Aug 2018 1:07pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554



Camshaft position sensor has power supply from ecm Exclamation
Post #725034 23rd Aug 2018 1:31pm
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WhathaveIdone!



Member Since: 04 Feb 2016
Location: Sakhalin Island
Posts: 27

Russia 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Tonga Green
Thanks to all for the pointers. Thought I would wrap this up to help those who come later.

First thing is that I installed Forscan and found it to be useful to indicate the cam / crank sensor sync. I did not find a way of doing that with my Nanocom. Takes away some of the guessing about the condition of the sensors. I was never able to successfully bench test my cam sensor and changed it out as a precautionary measure, but am not convinced that was the root cause of the problem.

The other issue was simply priming of the high pressure pump - I had primed the lines by pressurising the tank, but I had split the fuel line at the Union in the top of the engine bay. The pump itself was not generating sufficient suction to get the fuel moving through the last 20cm of line. Pressurising that section of line with a large syringe allowed it to start immediately.

Simples when you know. The preferred solution on the transit forums seems to be towing it around the block and dragging it back to life.
Post #734338 12th Oct 2018 11:05am
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1566

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Towing a TDCi can have disastrous consequences with the timing chain Neutral
Post #734416 12th Oct 2018 9:05pm
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WhathaveIdone!



Member Since: 04 Feb 2016
Location: Sakhalin Island
Posts: 27

Russia 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Tonga Green
Yes! - it wasn't a recommendation, maybe more of a reflection on how used and abused your average transit can be.....
Post #734827 15th Oct 2018 1:28pm
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