 | Home > Td5 > TD5 Starting problems |
 
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| Tommo Member Since: 19 Dec 2013 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 830   
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I thought mine was the crank sensor or fuel pump and had to purge the pump a few times to get it to start but also had lumpy idle. Took to independent who said he thought it was injector washers/seals which he changed and now it springs to life
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Have you had these changed? Also, it is getting to 70mph now whereas previously it struggled. |
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20th May 2018 6:58am |
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| drinkdrinkdrop Member Since: 13 Sep 2016 Location: Surrey Posts: 76
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Had seals and washers changed a week ago, fixed my lumpy idle but other symptoms remain
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20th May 2018 8:52am |
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| drinkdrinkdrop Member Since: 13 Sep 2016 Location: Surrey Posts: 76
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Swapped CPS for a spare and no change. I'm getting to the point I'm fairly convinced it's a fuelling issue, sometimes when trying to coax it into life with the throttle i'll have it floored but it seems like it's only giving half revs then all of a sudden after 10-15 seconds it'll roar into life.
I'm getting 4 bar at the FPR (a hair more when cranking) I saw some suggestions of clamping the pipe from the head back to the FPR but I don't have a suitable clamp and I cant work out how to disconnect that pipe to do an inline test at that point. Going to cut a hole in prep for cleaning out the pump filter and then probably going to be a change of pump/FPR and filter housing  (in some order I haven't decided on yet) |
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21st May 2018 9:49am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
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Have you had it plugged in and checked the throttle pedal signals? Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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21st May 2018 11:42am |
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| drinkdrinkdrop Member Since: 13 Sep 2016 Location: Surrey Posts: 76
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No I couldn't get any live data from the LR2, I'm not ruling that out as the cause of the revving and performance issues but as I understand it the car should still start and idle without it?
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21st May 2018 11:46am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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You'd think so but you seem to have ruled everything else out. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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21st May 2018 11:48am |
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| Kent_keith Member Since: 01 Jun 2014 Location: Kent Posts: 388 
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I had something similar, turned out to be the fuel pump relay burning out, not sure if you’ve changed that but if you haven’t it would be worth a try. 2005 TD5 90 CSW XS
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4th Jun 2018 6:33pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5736 
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My 110 does similar when its has 1/4 of tank. Starts then cuts out. After a re-prime and a long crank it runs lumpy then smooths out. If I start the car and give it some revs when it has 1/4 tank the engine pulls through and drives fine.. Maybe a few extra revs might help? 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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4th Jun 2018 7:08pm |
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| drinkdrinkdrop Member Since: 13 Sep 2016 Location: Surrey Posts: 76
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Thanks for the suggestions
excossack as far as I can tell fuel level has no effect for me and once it's decided it's not starting priming has no effect. Occasionally having the throttle down will cause it to kinda catch then it will rev for maybe 15secs before full power turns up but 90% of the time throttle position doesn't matter Kent_Keith I gave the relay a good clean and tested the amp draw when the pump which was running which was the same whether it started or not. Also definitely getting pressure at the regulator so pretty confident this isn't the issue but for the sack of a fiver i'll change it anyway Right latest update, fuel pump changed, FPR changed, fuel filter housing changed, EGR blanked. Problem remains
In at the local specialist for diagnostics on Thursday |
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5th Jun 2018 9:44am |
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| drinkdrinkdrop Member Since: 13 Sep 2016 Location: Surrey Posts: 76
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Just remembered, for the benefit of anyone searching this thread in the future if you have to change your fuel pump and are going in through the floor this thread was helpful http://www.defender2.net/forum/post480442.html but here are a couple of bits of advice that could be handy for other owners.
First of all I cut a round hole using a hole saw while this made getting through the floor a breeze I wouldn't recommend it for the following reason, it's way harder to get appropriate tools on the steel strengtheners below, a jig saw whipped out most of it quickly but it wasn't man enough for the taller sections and the circular access meant removing them took far longer than it should have. If you don't know the condition of your tank locking ring before you start just buy the proper tool, a new locking ring and get the tank adapter ring ESR3807, as defenders are getting older and some like mine have been clearly parked in a swamp more than a metre deep at some point you find rust in some unusual places. My adapter ring was rotten and so seized that the tap it round with a blunt implement method just destroyed the rusty lugs and even the proper tool (when it turned up 2 days after my initial failure!) could barely get any grip on them. In the end the way it came out was jamming 2 screwdrivers through opposing holes where the lugs used to be while a helper uses the locking ring spanner to turn them, this resulted in the pump spinning along with the ring until one of the adapter ring tabs eventually snapped off and the whole lot came off together. I then removed the plastic ring from the locking ring with a hacksaw but with the snapped tab it would hold properly when I tried to reassemble So after a few days waiting for my white adapter ring to turn up it became clear that getting it on isn't the easiest job. It's a very thick thread which starts on the right of the tank as you look at it, the thread on the ring starts next to the smaller of the 2 tabs. Line the 2 thread starts up and twist clockwise until it starts to catch. After about a quarter turn you'll think this doesn't look right as the ring will be quite "on" on one side and not close on the other, after about half a turn you'll think blimey this might snap, after about 3 quarters of a turn you will struggle to hand tighten it anymore at which point using the locking ring spanner I was able to get the extra bit of turn for the whole thread to finally catch. Now just twist it round until the thin tab sits on the right recess and the wider tab in the left recess and mount the pump and locking ring as normal Last edited by drinkdrinkdrop on 8th Jun 2018 10:38am. Edited 2 times in total |
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5th Jun 2018 10:19am |
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| drinkdrinkdrop Member Since: 13 Sep 2016 Location: Surrey Posts: 76
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Starting problem resolved
damaged wire between the alarm and ECU. So even with a 10AS disabled, breaking the LGS wire to C0658-34 will cause the immobilizer to kick in. Think I'm still down on power but will confirm over a few days and start a new thread if needed.
Thanks for all the suggestions   |
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8th Jun 2018 10:26am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
pin 14 gray connector AS10 active low immobiliser out put ----------------------------------------------- to Co658 - pin 34 security code input to ECM need to read code being sent by immobiliser
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8th Jun 2018 11:02am |
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