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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 4438

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey

Just added character and I'm sure tells some good stories!

Looks great in all photos! Thumbs Up James

MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red

Post #706107 8th May 2018 9:34pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Bonnet Release Cable Guard

I've added another little security feature in the form of a bonnet release cable guard from LandRoverDefenderSecurity.com. This stainless steel cut and folded plate is much more substantial than the original and it comes with a set of instructions and a handful of rivets. As delivered, it's bare stainless but I gave it a coat of satin black paint to tone it down a bit:


Click image to enlarge

Whilst at first glance it's a simple thing, installation was more complicated than I'd expected. Firstly, with the rivets drilled out and the old guard removed, I couldn't get the new guard into position without slackening off the mounting bolts of the frame for the A/C fan. Not a big deal but also not mentioned in the instructions.

Secondly, when I finally did get the guard in place, it still didn't quite fit - it was a about 4-5mm out when compared with the existing mounting holes:


Click image to enlarge

With the top of the fan cowl removed, it was apparent that the end of the guard was hitting the A/C rad mount:


Click image to enlarge

This was resolved by cutting a small chunk out of the end of the guard:


Click image to enlarge

With everything in bits, I took the opportunity to rub down and paint the slam panel, as it'll be much harder once the new guard is fitted:


Click image to enlarge

I also put some Fertan on the rusty brackets supporting the A/C rad but painting them will have to be a job for another day as I was running out of time.

With all of that done, the guard was finally fitted:


Click image to enlarge

And all back together again, which included swapping the rusty original screws across the top of the grill panel for some nice stainless ones:


Click image to enlarge

In terms of added protection for the bonnet release cable, the guard does the job that it's intended to. It's a shame that it needed to be modified to fit though, and that the instructions weren't 100%.

The guard also comes with a small boot-shaped plate, shown in the first pic, that's intended to be fixed with more rivets over the hole in the slam panel that give access to the cable clamp. This piece comes attached to the main guard with a small tab that needs to be snapped off, after which it requires a small amount of dressing with a file. I haven't fitted it, though, as with the main guard in place and the bonnet down, it's impossible to get to the bolt anyway.

Between the new guard and the bolts holding the wing top access plate on, I'm reasonably confident that the bonnet is as difficult to open from outside as it's practical to make it. I also took the opportunity to check behind the other headlight and confirmed that the BBUS has been moved elsewhere. Still can't find it but I've inadvertently triggered it so I know it exists! 

MY USW BUILD THREAD

Post #707201 14th May 2018 9:55pm
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 4438

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey

Great write up on the install, thank you. Do you think the issues were caused by good old LR tolerances or is it, manufacturer issues? Seems relatively simple to get made right for easy fitting, unless all Defenders are different? Could it be manufactured with slotted holes to allow with tolerance?

You should give your feedback to Defender Security. Thumbs Up James

MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red

Post #707238 15th May 2018 8:29am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey

Thanks. I don't think the problem is to do with tolerances. It's more likely a subtle change to the rad mounting hardware at some point. The instructions for the guard do mention that it may be necessary to re-drill the holes on some vehicles but, to me, that seems like a poor solution. Apart from the fact that any new holes would be almost on top of the existing, it seems to me that it would be much easier to shorten the guard by a few mm, as that's in no way detrimental to its' function.

Anyway, I do intend to let Defender Security know what I've found. The owner was very helpful when I was purchasing it and a few other bits and pieces. 

MY USW BUILD THREAD

Post #707253 15th May 2018 9:52am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Air Con Grill

Whilst I had the front end apart, I also took the opportunity to fit a new 'air con' grill in place of the original typically corroded alloy one. I don't know what LR make these from that they corrode so easily as they're only in contact with the plastic surround Rolling Eyes

Anyway, I replaced it with a powder coated stainless version from DEFENDER UPGRADES, purchased via eBay rather than their website as it was lightly cheaper.

Out of the packet, it looked like a nice bit of kit although when offered up to the surround I was disappointed that the holes didn't quite line up. They weren't out by much but it was just enough to prevent it sitting flush with the fixings in place. Fortunately, it was solved with the touch of a drill to the plastic.

When I removed the existing grill I found that the paint around the rivets lifted, which was a nuisance. However, as I chose to fit the new grill using black nylon pan head bolts, this minor damage was mostly concealed. Eventually, it'll need repainting, but not today.


Click image to enlarge

Even more annoying was that I didn't quite have enough pan head bolts in stock so had to resort to a couple of hex head ones to finish. I've ordered some more though and will swap them over in due course.


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
 

MY USW BUILD THREAD

Post #707279 15th May 2018 12:27pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Greaseable Hinges

Another little mod completed this evening: I've adapted the door hinges so that they can be greased. This comprised drilling 2mm holes on the inside of each hinge body and using a chainsaw grease gun to pump grease into the cavity around the hinge pin.

2mm hole:


Click image to enlarge

Filled with grease:


Click image to enlarge

And the grease gun, purchased from eBay for under £6 and pre-filled with grease:


Click image to enlarge

When drilling the holes, it's very obvious when it's passed through the body and touched the pivot pin, so there's no danger of causing any damage.

I can't claim credit for the idea; it was described by somebody on this very forum. Unfortunately, I can't remember who but if you read this then thank you Smile 

MY USW BUILD THREAD

Post #707394 15th May 2018 8:54pm
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Sulisuli



Member Since: 30 Oct 2016
Location: South west
Posts: 1492

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey

lighteningtweeds I think Thumbs Up Being a sewage diver at least I know how deep the 💩 will be at work today.
2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90
2000 XS TD5 90

Post #707404 15th May 2018 9:18pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey

Yeah, I think you're right, thanks. 

MY USW BUILD THREAD

Post #707413 15th May 2018 9:30pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 5641

England 1996 Defender 110 300 Tdi PU Coniston Green

I have done this to my door hinges when i put the new ones on and drilled my hole nearer the top, so i can put the tube in from the GT85 can and spray, then goes down inside just right, the tube is a nice fit, great idea Very Happy 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.

Cheers
Clayton.

Post #707427 15th May 2018 9:52pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 3538

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey

Just stripped down the DC for a full upgrade on sound proofing etc, plus have a full set of SS bolts for the hinges, so this is something I’ll also tackle. But whilst I’ve got the door trim off, any clever recommendations for quietening the stay at the bottom of each door? I appreciate it’s a fairly agricultural set up, but I’d be keen to smooth the action and try in some way to reduce the metallic ‘Ker-thunk’ when opening (especially) and closing. Is it just a case of adding a good amount of grease in the slider or are there other tricks? Ta. Thumbs Up Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey

Post #707499 16th May 2018 1:04pm
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Rosco



Member Since: 03 Dec 2010
Location: Burntwood
Posts: 1258

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red

Great idea, I'll add that to the list of jobs to do on mine as the drivers door pins are already looking a little rusty Thumbs Up 2007 - Stornoway Grey 90 XS SW - Gone
2002 - Black Discovery II - Gone
2014 - Montalcino Red 110 XS SW

Post #707503 16th May 2018 1:55pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey

Grenadier wrote:
But whilst I’ve got the door trim off, any clever recommendations for quietening the stay at the bottom of each door? I appreciate it’s a fairly agricultural set up, but I’d be keen to smooth the action and try in some way to reduce the metallic ‘Ker-thunk’ when opening (especially) and closing. Is it just a case of adding a good amount of grease in the slider or are there other tricks? Ta. Thumbs Up

I'm not sure about the stay but when I recently replaced the doors on my 90 I lined as much of it as was practical with Silent Coat and it made a world of difference. Once properly adjusted, it shut with a nice,solid 'thud'.


Click image to enlarge

I plan to do the same to my 110 in due course. 

MY USW BUILD THREAD

Post #707547 16th May 2018 5:27pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey

The correct nylon bolts arrived today and after ten minutes with a screw driver, balance has been restored to the universe:


Click image to enlarge
 

MY USW BUILD THREAD

Post #707788 17th May 2018 8:55pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 3538

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey

LandRoverAnorak wrote:
Grenadier wrote:
But whilst I’ve got the door trim off, any clever recommendations for quietening the stay at the bottom of each door? I appreciate it’s a fairly agricultural set up, but I’d be keen to smooth the action and try in some way to reduce the metallic ‘Ker-thunk’ when opening (especially) and closing. Is it just a case of adding a good amount of grease in the slider or are there other tricks? Ta. Thumbs Up

I'm not sure about the stay but when I recently replaced the doors on my 90 I lined as much of it as was practical with Silent Coat and it made a world of difference. Once properly adjusted, it shut with a nice,solid 'thud'.


Click image to enlarge

I plan to do the same to my 110 in due course.


Good to know as my soundproofing is well under way!! Will just lube the stay with some quality HD grease Thumbs Up



Click image to enlarge
 Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey

Post #707876 18th May 2018 11:00am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey

I had my first failure this week when the rear drivers side door didn't lock. I don't know exactly when it failed but on Wednesday evening some sixth sense told me that I should check the door after locking when I got home and, of course, it was still open.

I repaired it by stripping out the damaged wire and soldering in a new replacement, which meant removing the door card to allow me to release the loom and provide enough slack to push back the rubber boot:


Click image to enlarge

Unfortunately, I didn't have any wire of the correct colour in stock so this'll have to do.

This is such a common failure that I may look at replacing these looms with some lengths of curly cable if I can find a neat way of finishing them at door and pillar. Some small glands or cable restraints of some description, maybe. 

MY USW BUILD THREAD

Post #708148 19th May 2018 11:03pm
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