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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 179

Viscous fan removal - any hints or tips?

So, was taking the radiator out this afternoon. Tried to do it 'by the book' by taking the viscous fan off - but no joy. I had bought a cheapy offset spanner to do the job - but it's really poor. Cheap, pressed/cut steel, and it's opening up and getting chewed up.

On the other hand, the nut itself isn't in brilliant nick - rusty and a bit chewed. I have two other 32mm spanners, but they're too thick to get in. I'll head into town tomorrow to see if I can find something else, but has anyone got any suggestions? Any hints and tips that might help? I did try tapping it with a hammer to see if it would 'shock' off, but the spanner is just too poor. What sort of torque is the likely to be at.

....and yes, I do know it's a left hand thread Thumbs Up

Having said that, I have managed to get the radiator off. The cowl went back enought to allow me to get to the lower oil pipe - but it was awkward, and will be awkward on the rebuild. I have a new viscous unit to fit, so keen to get this sorted if I can.

Ta

D 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 216k miles and going strong

The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

Post #685638 10th Feb 2018 7:55pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: North Wales, UK
Posts: 1155

United Kingdom 

Ahhhh.... Old skool viscous removal trick... As taught to me by one old skool tractor mech years ago...

Do not use a double ended viscous fan spanner. Either buy a 32mm spanner and grind down one side until it fits (this is the better way apparently) or source a single ended 32mm viscous fan spanner (this is cheaper and what I did).

Grab LR tool #1 (lump hammer), place spanner at 1 o'clock, lightly press clockwise, TWACK end of spanner with #1 LR tool.

It will work!!! Every time!

It is worth noting that on a 200tdi the Poly-V belt slipping can cause a little agro but persevere and it will work.

Post #685653 10th Feb 2018 8:42pm
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Alex1976



Member Since: 23 Jan 2013
Location: Brackley
Posts: 461

England 

Agree with Geobloke - works every time!

Post #685657 10th Feb 2018 8:55pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 179

Thanks guys. Land Rover No1 tool was already deployed in exactly the manner described - but the two ended spanner wasn't up to the job.

I can see the Sunday peace being disturbed tomorrow then as the grinder comes out...!

Will report back! 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 216k miles and going strong

The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

Post #685666 10th Feb 2018 9:28pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 179

Forgot to update this one...

I did just as suggested and ground down an existing 32mm spanner until it was just thin enough to fit on the viscous unit nut, then one wee tap with the hammer, and off it came. Dead simple - and now I know I have something I can rely on when I do the job next time.

Thanks very. much for the advice! 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 216k miles and going strong

The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

Post #686109 12th Feb 2018 6:23pm
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Blackhat90



Member Since: 31 Dec 2016
Location: Forfar
Posts: 41

Scotland 1995 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Epsom Green

Leave it off ,, i removed mine 15 years ago, never overheated, better mpg too, thats towing 3.5 tons also,, uphill ,downdale, Cool

Post #686152 12th Feb 2018 8:02pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 179

I think I've heard that said before - though I lean towards the idea that if LR and all their testing thougt it was necessary....

I was going to ask more, but to be honest I know I'd be much more comfortable leaving it 'as is'. Cheers. 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 216k miles and going strong

The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

Post #686165 12th Feb 2018 8:21pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 1290

Scotland 

MPG savings from removal would be imperceptible if they exist at all (which I doubt). Only real benefit is more space in the engine bay.

Far better left on in my opinion.

Post #686206 12th Feb 2018 10:00pm
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Klausy



Member Since: 08 Oct 2015
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 

Hi All,

I am refurbing an E reg '90 and have chosen to remove my viscous fan and replace it with a Kenlowe unit, although I'm several months away from completion so don't ask how it is performing.
I'm not a fan of modifying tools for a one off job you never know when/if you'll need to use the tool for it intended use. I fabricated a removal spanner from a thick sheet of mild steel with a tube on the end for a handle. It's amazing how resourceful you can be if it saves a bit of money.

Cheers
Klaus

Post #687825 20th Feb 2018 3:10pm
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Blackhat90



Member Since: 31 Dec 2016
Location: Forfar
Posts: 41

Scotland 1995 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Epsom Green

How does your Kenlow fan fit,, i hope its not that type that fixes thru the rad with Zip tie & pads, theyre a bad idea,

Post #688084 21st Feb 2018 7:12pm
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