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AndyTunn



Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Auckland
Posts: 313

New Zealand 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Connector problems
My reverse light has stopped working. So far I have:
1. Swapped reverse and fog light and proved that the light itself and the bulb is OK.
2. Checked the fuse is OK.
3. The reverse light is plugged into a Mudstuff piggy-back loom to feed out to the work light, but I've checked that is OK too.

My next step was to check the reverse light switch at the gearbox. Using the tips on this thread (although I can't get the photos to work) I've found the switch via the access panel under the cubby box.


Click image to enlarge

The switch seems to be properly tightened up.

My plan was to remove the connector from the back of the switch and check if I could get the circuit to work by by-passing the mechanical switch but I can't work out how to get the connector off!

I know it's a "squeeze to release" connector of some sort, but I can't work out which bit I need to squeeze! I've tried just about every part I can but it all seems totally solid - no obvious give anywhere. Access is really tight so maybe I'm just not getting enough pressure to the right bit.

Does anyone know how this type of connector works?

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #398640 14th Feb 2015 2:20am
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AndyTunn



Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Auckland
Posts: 313

New Zealand 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Got it!
Had a cup of tea and a think and tried again. This time I got it, and when I short circuited the connector everything worked as it should. Looks like I need a new mechanical switch then! Confused
Post #398643 14th Feb 2015 3:12am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5416

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Think I need new switch as mine doesn't work either. Great, and I don't want to remove interior, so will just struggle and try from underneath.

Andy.
Post #398769 14th Feb 2015 6:05pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
mine played up

took old one out and it was full of oil , then found gearbox was overfill

did get the switch working by washing it out , but replaced anyway

bit of a pig to get at from underneath , but doable
Post #398773 14th Feb 2015 6:14pm
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jonesie



Member Since: 25 Sep 2011
Location: Petworth
Posts: 231

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Corris Grey

Click image to enlarge

Cleaned my switch today all seems fine now I did ponder doing the job though because I didn't have a stubby 22mm spanner......
However much trawling later I found the perfect tool and guess what?
It cost £1.50 from screw fix ( nothing these days costs £1.50! )
Bottom line get one of these spanners.
Jonesie the thrifty. Series I 86" Petrol orig side valve (daily hack)
VW Tiguan ( bit bland but very comfy )
Porsche 997.2
790 Bonnie
Post #464450 18th Oct 2015 8:25pm
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cinqetoiles



Member Since: 31 Jul 2012
Location: Belgium
Posts: 4


Click image to enlarge

Did it entirely from underneath.
The trick is to find the right position for your arm.
See picture.
Quick job, as there was nothing to dismantle.
Post #545037 1st Jul 2016 11:14am
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meeerrrk



Member Since: 12 Feb 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 548

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
blackwolf wrote:
Sorry, no photos. The switch is very well hidden!

The workshop manual for the Puma says that to get to the switch you ned to remove the gear levers and then the floor panel that forms the transmission tunnel, but this looks to me to be a real PITA, especially with carpets in the way.

The - much easier - way I got at mine was to remove the cubby box between the seats, peel back the carpet on the seat box (there are two pieces of carpet on the box, one on the right and one the left, so there is a longitudinal join at the cetnre - very handy) then remove the access panel in the box itself (five screws, then 'break' the sealant to lift the panel out).

The reverse light switch can then be seen (if you stick your head in the hole between the seats) and accessed with a 22mm open-ended spanner. It is located on the top left hand side of the gearbox, perhaps two or three inches forward from the front of the seat box. The switch is clearly visible, and it is the only switch in the vicinty so you can't really mistake it. It still isn't easy to get at, but it is at least possible.

The connector on the switch has one of those press-to-release-a-catch type clips, so squeeze the flat sides together with your fingers before pulling.

Hope this helps.


Thanks for all the advice in this thread, espically blackwolf, new switch fitted and seems to have cured my intermittent light. My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html
Post #665016 17th Nov 2017 10:05am
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Essex Lad



Member Since: 15 Jan 2018
Location: Brentwood, Essex
Posts: 1

United Kingdom 
I just had the same reversing light switch issue with my Puma 90 2.2 hard top. Couldn't get close to it from below so took the gearbox tunnel off from the inside. It only took 1 and a half hours to replace the switch (22 mm spanner) but I have rubber mats so it could be more difficult if you have carpets fitted. Mine has only covered 15k miles so no idea why such a simple switch should fail like this but it had ford stamped on it so I suppose that's the reason!

Not a difficult job, hardest part was removing the rubber mat from around sticks and hand break.

Here are a couple of photos showing the switch with the tunnel removed.
Post #678675 15th Jan 2018 2:01pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2287

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello All

Well mines gone the same way (probably) 2010 2.4 50K... intermittent then nothing.
Been Reversing with Hazards for a week or so (not ideal)
Fuse + Bulb OK so hoping that its a 'simple' Switch Swap Out...

Just as an Update
LR Part Number for a Reverse Light Switch MT82 Transmission 2007-2016
Was LR005160...



Now LR077773 SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #933807 16th Dec 2021 11:05am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
This came up on another thread a few days ago. With a bit of perseverance, the switch can be changed from the panel under cubby box. More details here:

https://www.defender2.net/forum/post733726.html#733726 Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #933811 16th Dec 2021 11:29am
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2287

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Thanks LRA Darren

I saw this subject on Conā€fuseā€ion! but the link to your story is really helpful... Thumbs Up

This is going to be my way in also, I think I have a (thin) stubby 22mm Spanner
in my Cycle Tools but if not a bit of Tool 'adjustment' also looks imminent... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #933815 16th Dec 2021 11:59am
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