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Home > Technical > Aschroft half shaft with HD Paddock drive flange problem
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Fitting crappy flanges unfortunately won't protect your diff, it just introduces (or retains) another likely driveline weakness.

Before I went down the Ashcroft route and later the one-piece route I had two fail, and I don't ever remember thinking "oh goody, it's not the diff!" Rolling with laughter
Post #646494 26th Aug 2017 9:21pm
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Neilios



Member Since: 01 Nov 2017
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 168

England 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi HCPU Keswick Green
How didn't they fail? Did the splines strip? Howe many miles and were they original spec? Sorry for all the questions just looking to replace mine.
Post #662294 6th Nov 2017 9:39pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Fretting on the splines leading ultimately to failure. I got through two sets of genuine flanges and shafts before fitting the Ashcroft HD flanges and shafts, and the most recent change (to genuine one-piece shafts - oh, the cost, the cost Shocked ) came because of damage to the inboard end of the shafts due to a tribological problem within the axle, which cost me the shafts and ATB. Big Cry

IIRC the first failure (original flange and shaft) came at about 60k miles, the second (genuine flange and shaft)at about 120k, and the HD shafts etc came out at 210k miles. So around 60k each for the genuine parts, at least 100k for the Ashcroft, and these would have been fine for a lot longer still but for the lubrication problem.
Post #662357 7th Nov 2017 9:25am
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BenB8man



Member Since: 22 Mar 2017
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 427

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I personally found quite excessive play on the rear drive flanges on my 110 Puma at 30k. I've since replaced the flanges but left the half shafts alone. When I fitted the Ashcroft flanges there was a nice tight fit between the parts and eliminated all backlash (except for the adaptor shaft in the gearbox, but thats a different story).

I've pushed a load of grease in there am am tempted to add grease nipples so I can force more in to reduce any fretting between the different hardness metals.

So far after 10k on original halfs and Ashcroft flanges I've had no wear, so I think they should last ok! Depends on your budget I guess.

Whats this tribological problem you speak of Roger? Rolling Eyes
Post #662367 7th Nov 2017 10:51am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
My axle ingested water, and I didn't realise unitl too late.

Watery emulsion + ATB + high mileages = substantial bill Big Cry

Made worse by that fact that it is entirely my fault.
Post #662402 7th Nov 2017 1:24pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7664

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
i have ashcroft shafts front and rear with std drive members and change the DM regularly! Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #662414 7th Nov 2017 2:28pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
blackwolf wrote:

IIRC the first failure (original flange and shaft) came at about 60k miles, the second (genuine flange and shaft)at about 120k, and the HD shafts etc came out at 210k miles. So around 60k each for the genuine parts, at least 100k for the Ashcroft, and these would have been fine for a lot longer still but for the lubrication problem.


My original shafts and equipment have began to fail at 65k, so sounds about right.
100k on the Ashcroft kit makes for good reading!
I've only done 54k in 8 years so at that rate should be sorted for years. Laughing Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #719077 22nd Jul 2018 12:59pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
Been chatting with Opie today regarding oil.

D44 used Fuchs Syntac which is commercial and in commercial quantity so I can't get that.
They (Opie Oils) recommended this:
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-983-fuchs-tit...r-oil.aspx
I take it that one is fine for the 2.4 Puma, and I only need 2L volume required for diff according to WSM is 1.7L. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #719286 23rd Jul 2018 4:52pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Should be ok, it does say suitable for high offset hypoid drives even though not marked EP, so I can't see any problem.
Post #719308 23rd Jul 2018 6:32pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
Thank-you for the extra clarification. Always helps greatly.

Nearly there now to crack on with the front flanges, just waiting for goods to arrive.

Rear halfshafts won't be long to follow either. Thumbs Up Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #719316 23rd Jul 2018 7:22pm
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oneten110



Member Since: 02 Jul 2011
Location: Wish I was still in France
Posts: 741

United Kingdom 
I have had Ashcroft shafts, CV joints and drive members on mine for about 10 years now. No problems whatsoever, apart from them not being shiny any more.
When I fitted them I also took the opportunity to remove the stub axle oil seals, thus enabling oil from the diff to migrate along the shaft and lubricate everything. Just like Land Rover did prior to about umm 1994
Post #719426 24th Jul 2018 12:03pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
Did you do that just on the rear only? Ashcroft seem to mention removing the seal on the rear but don't say anything regarding the front.
I'm assuming removing the seal isn't difficult, the trouble is with greasing is the regularity required and over autumn, winter and spring it's not easy for me due to the weather conditions and no garage. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #719434 24th Jul 2018 12:19pm
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oneten110



Member Since: 02 Jul 2011
Location: Wish I was still in France
Posts: 741

United Kingdom 
My front axle is a bit of a bar steward. The case is from a 300Tdi, the diff is a 4 pin unit, the stubs/hubs/swivel housings are from a 1984 One_Ten, the swivels are from a 300Tdi.
However, to answer your question, none of my stub axles have seals in them.
Removal of the seal is not difficult, it is all the other stuff you have to remove in order to take the stub axle off that makes it a relatively protracted job
Post #719454 24th Jul 2018 3:38pm
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