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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16876   
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If the bearings are all OK, then you would be well advised to repack them.
You will need a new hub oil seal (you can't get the inner race of the inner bearing out of the hub without disturbing the seal). If you are reassembling the bearings in their original format you will need a new stake nut (if you wanted to change to the older, two-nut, system, then you'd need the two nuts and the tab washer to fit between them). Provided that the bearings go back in their original positions (important!) and they are not worn, the original spacer can be reused. Do not disturb the outer races (in the hub), just wipe all the old lube out and repack with a suitable litium based grease. If you convert to the two nut system, discard the spacer and adjust the bearings correctly. You shouldn't need to replace any of the bolts, however you will need threadlock for most of them when reassembling. For this job, the front and rear hubs are treated in the same way. When you do the rears, if you unclip the brake pipes from the axle tube there is enough flex in the pipe to hang the caliper out of the way without disconnecting the hydraulic lines. When you do the fronts, if you carefully slot the brackets that are attached to the top swivel pin and that hold the outboard end of the brake hoses where they connect to the short pipes to the calipers (which can be done without disconnecting the brake lines) then you can release the calipers and hang them clear without disturbing the top swivel pin and without disconnecting the brakes lines. It is a little fiddly to do, and needs to be done carefully, but saves a lot of hassle in the future. |
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31st Aug 2017 10:55am |
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| ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572 
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Many thanks blackwolf, as always a great source of information and help. When you say put the bearings back in their original position should I mark the races to ensure they sit in the same position or do you mean don't mix up the inners and outers.
Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black. |
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31st Aug 2017 12:30pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16876
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Don't mix the inner and outer bearings.
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31st Aug 2017 12:34pm |
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| greenlandrover Member Since: 09 Jul 2017 Location: Stourbridge Posts: 145 
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I'm about to do a similar thing and started this thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56045.html
Might be of interest to you Chris. I'm probably going to change the driveshaft flanges at the same time. Not too sure about replacing halfshafts with older single piece items. Thank you blackwolf for your advice. I shall be taking it when I do my discs  |
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31st Aug 2017 12:39pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16876
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^^ The single piece halfshafts are actually newer (as well as older) since LR reverted to them with the runout models. Having fitted a set to my Defender recently, I have to say that they do help reduce backlash. The only downside is the shocking price of new genuine parts (about £600 the pair).
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31st Aug 2017 2:02pm |
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| greenlandrover Member Since: 09 Jul 2017 Location: Stourbridge Posts: 145
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What do think about using ones from scrap yard donor Defenders/Discos?
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31st Aug 2017 2:17pm |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2078 
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No harm in using old one piece half shafts providing they are undamaged.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. |
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31st Aug 2017 3:05pm |
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| tuesdayfox Member Since: 23 Jun 2013 Location: Sydney,OZ Posts: 129 
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Curious why? aren't they the same? Thanks |
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7th Oct 2017 3:25am |
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| williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441 
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Because they've matched themselves to that particular outer race.
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7th Oct 2017 7:28am |
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