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JimboD3



Member Since: 09 Apr 2013
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 55

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
DRL's and battery charging
Hi,

Fitted a new front bumper and voltage-sensing DRL's the other weekend - wired them up as per the instructions, fused +12v to the battery and a good earth (no side-light connection yet), and they work perfectly.

Here comes the 'but' - I tend to keep the 110 connected up to a trickle charger (CTEK) most of the time as a) I don't drive it daily, and b) the battery suffers from a bit of parasitic drain........after the CTEK has been connected for a while (I don't know exactly how long), the DRL's start to flicker on and off. I understand why this happens - the DRL's are voltage-sensing and the CTEK must be getting the battery up to 14.6v (I think that's the voltage the DRL's trigger at)

What options have I got, other than putting a switch in the +ve feed to the lights and turning them off when I connect the battery charger?

Thanks,

Jim Td5 110 HD Hardtop.......not quite standard Smile
Post #641094 1st Aug 2017 10:17am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Could you wire the controller via an ignition live so that it's only powered up when the key is turned?

Failing that, a simple switch would be an easy, albeit less elegant solution. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #641096 1st Aug 2017 10:28am
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discomog



Member Since: 09 May 2015
Location: Notts/Lincs Border
Posts: 2495

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
I use a Ctek charger and have JW Speaker DRL's fitted although like LandRoverAnorak states, I have these wired through the Ignition and therefore does not suffer your problem. It may well be easier to rewire the feed to the DRL's via the Ignition or even the Ignition Auxiliary and thereby avoid a constant feed. Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S
Morgan Plus 8
Post #641111 1st Aug 2017 11:13am
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T67M



Member Since: 19 Jul 2016
Location: york
Posts: 4

England 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Santorini Black
I have the same problem, so I just pull the DRL fuse out when I put the CTEK charger on. Not elegant, but simple.
Post #641257 1st Aug 2017 9:34pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5084

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
I had the same problem and like you are thinking to solve it I cut the battery feed to the control unit and connected the ends to a simple on off switch. So when charging I just cut the power to the DLR’s via the switch. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1


Last edited by gilarion on 2nd Aug 2017 12:46pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #641368 2nd Aug 2017 12:35pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5084

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
Duplicate post Embarassed For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #641369 2nd Aug 2017 12:37pm
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JimboD3



Member Since: 09 Apr 2013
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 55

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Thinking about it, where I've run the +12v feed for the DRL's (battery box), there's a ignition-switched trigger for my split charge relay - now if I can remember where I took that feed from (radio +12v comes to mind........) maybe I can use that to run the DRL's as well - or maybe I'll just go with a switch in the DRL feed.

Jim Td5 110 HD Hardtop.......not quite standard Smile
Post #641538 3rd Aug 2017 8:35am
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VeeTee



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

Netherlands 
I have bought some DRL's + controller some time ago, but did not install them yet because I was thinking how to solve this problem, as I have a solar panel fitted permanently on the roofrack.
Yes, ignition live feed or a switch will solve the problem, but also will introduce a new one: the DRL controller has a 'coming home' function', i.e. it wil stay on some time after you switch the motor off. But if it is connected via a switch or ignition live, you obviously loose this feature... Thoughts, thoughts ... Confused Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite
Post #641601 3rd Aug 2017 3:00pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5084

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
One of the other reasons I added a switch was because of the coming home feature. The lights were supposed to switch themselves off after few minutes but mine seldom did, I thought at first it was just a faulty controller, so I contacted the supplier (Outbound 4x4) and they kindly sent me out a second unit and after rewiring everything again I still had the same problem.

In the end I put it down to the massive amperage battery that they were connected to, either way the lights would not switch off when the ignition was turned off, so in the end I just fitted a switch inside the cab to turn them off as I did not need the coming home feature as I have security lights fitted to the property.

The kit I bought from Outbound 4x4 is expensive at £124.98 but the quality of the lamps and housing is very good and comes with a fitting template to drill the bumper. I have a stainless steel bumper so decided not to drill the large holes myself, so took them to a machine shop that charged me £20.00 to drill the bumper perfectly. The other thing is that the housing has special lugs on them so unless you know how to remove them they are more or less impossible to steal.

Defender daytime running light kit designed by Outbound 4x4. Light-Pod allows you to fit DRL's to your Land Rover without the need to replace your bumper. Highly attractive and in keeping with the iconic Defender looks, Light-Pod combines round DRL's with a sleek counter sunk design in either a black or XS style gun metal grey finish. Light-Pod is easily fitted with a click and lock mechanism to any standard Land Rover bumper.

http://www.outbound4x4.co.uk/shop/exterior...fender-drl For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #641617 3rd Aug 2017 3:48pm
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JimboD3



Member Since: 09 Apr 2013
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 55

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
My DRL's are just the standard 'Ring' oblong ones, so only have the optional 'dim when sidelights are on' feature.

I thought I'd found a way around my problem - feed the DRL's off the 'switched' side of the split charge relay (rather than using the relay trigger +12v feed which is possibly not rated high enough), the relay (80A jobby) connects the main +12v alternator feed to the aux battery when the engine is running........but I do also put the CTEK on the aux battery every few weeks to keep it topped up, so I'd have the same problem with the DRL's switching on when the aux battery charging voltage gets up to 14v (or whatever the DRL 'on' trigger voltage is)

It does seem like a bog-standard switch is the easiest way forward.........

Jim Td5 110 HD Hardtop.......not quite standard Smile
Post #641637 3rd Aug 2017 4:55pm
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