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CarMan



Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 1777

United Kingdom 
Puma RAI install - genuine LR
I am very tempted and the question is not about aesthetics, but I think I would need to drill the A pillar which is of course irreversible! Otherwise I assume nothing else couldn't be put back to 'normal' if removed.

So my question is, given that I want to do things that I want to do, but that won't detract from it's 'originality' or 'desirability' should I not do it Question Rob

1993 200tdi 90 hard-top
1998 300tdi 90 soft-top
2016 2.2 XS 90 hard-top
Post #638291 18th Jul 2017 7:30pm
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Sadi



Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Windhoek
Posts: 334

Namibia 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 Heritage Edition SW Grasmere Green
Once you have decided which RAI you want - I think the only way to get away without drilling is to have a roof rack - and organize some discreet support for the RAI from there.

Also - the reason for wanting the RAI - watercrossings or dusty roads or both. As mentioned in previous threads - an "optimized air intake" may help with better performance due to short and wide ducting from the top fender intake to the air box.
Post #638299 18th Jul 2017 8:11pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3997

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
I just took the plunge and drilled the holes. No gong back! However, I have heard of people using adhesive instead of the screws on the pillar, which may well work. I think a Sikaflex product was mentioned. However, whilst I'm sure there are adhesives strong enough to stick the RAI to the paint, how strongly is the paint adhered to the car?! 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #638349 18th Jul 2017 11:17pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
With the genuine one you need to drill two holes in the wing to take the screws at the bottom. They're more difficult to repair if you decide to reverse the modification.

The A pilar ones are a lot easier to fill, as it's a relatively solid bit of ally you can just fill and paint them. Or put some screws back in the holes and paint those, only a non-enthusiast would really notice them on a Defender.
Post #638364 19th Jul 2017 5:42am
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CarMan



Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 1777

United Kingdom 
Thanks guys, holes in the A pillar and holes in the wing, which I had not realised Rolling Eyes That's a no then from me Crying or Very sad Rob

1993 200tdi 90 hard-top
1998 300tdi 90 soft-top
2016 2.2 XS 90 hard-top
Post #638367 19th Jul 2017 6:45am
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
although if you do use a Genuine one, you'd not have much of a reason to put it back to standard. having one fitted isn't likely to detract from the vehicle's value.
Post #638421 19th Jul 2017 11:04am
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CarMan



Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 1777

United Kingdom 
Hmmmm good point that Confused Rob

1993 200tdi 90 hard-top
1998 300tdi 90 soft-top
2016 2.2 XS 90 hard-top
Post #638447 19th Jul 2017 12:37pm
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Birdy



Member Since: 07 Oct 2011
Location: Côte d'Azur
Posts: 850

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
"... isn't likely to detract from the vehicle's value"

Yeah, like ten years down the line a Defender will be worth more or less depending on the absence or otherwise of a couple of holes in the wings and/or pillar. It's how many are in the chassis that'll determine whether or not you get a good price for it.

And if you're one of the "JLR only produced two million so I'm keeping mine forever" brigade, it doesn't matter how many holes you drill in it, does it?

Peter
Post #638478 19th Jul 2017 5:13pm
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